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Type: Article

Section: Testing

From 2013-2020, advisor and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, 'Testing Tactics in Hair' for C&T, which is treasure trove of information for those working in the hair care space. Following is an index, complete with links.

'Testing Tactics in Hair' Column Series — An Index of Works by Trefor Evans, Ph.D.

From 2013-202, adviser and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, "Testing Tactics in Hair" for Cosmetics & Toiletries, covering methods to measure damage, treatments, claims and more. This is an index of his works.

To provide a natural solution for sensitive skin, a hyperbranched dextrin was developed and tested for soothing and protective effects. The absence of adverse effects on the microbiome also was assessed by a third party, with promising results.

Hyperbranched Dextrin for Soothing, Microbiome-friendly Skin Care

To provide a natural solution for sensitive skin, a hyperbranched dextrin was developed and tested for soothing and protective effects. The absence of adverse effects on the microbiome also was assessed by a third party, with promising results.

Lead Cosmetics And Body Care 02(800x450)

Consistency of Vaselinum Album and Flavum - Hollow Cone Method (EU Pharmacopeia)

The penetrometer PNR 12 is suitable for consistency measurements required in the pharmaceutical industry. Various test kits are available for different pharmaceutical products and standards like the official WHO method European Pharmacopoeia 2.9.9.

Transdermal microneedle patches enable active ingredients to bypass the slow diffusional process across the stratum corneum’s barrier to reach directly into the deeper skin layers.

How Dissolving HA Microneedles Change Before/After Application

Dissolvable microneedles have gained popularity to overcome the skin barrier and deliver actives. Here, SEM was used to evaluate changes that occur to microneedles upon application. The results could provide claims and regulatory classification insights.

Gm Methylation (800 X 450 Px)

Are Your Formulations Affecting DNA Methylation?

Determine how active ingredients and finished formulations impact DNA methylation produced by stressors such as UV, blue light and diesel particulate matter with DNA Methylation Services from Genemarkers.

The present study examined the effects of commercially available jojoba esters in liquid, natural jojoba-like form in three studies measuring irritation mitigation, skin hydration and soothing properties.

Jojoba Oil Esters Ease Inflammation, Sensitivity and Water Loss from Skin and the Environment

Water scarcity has become a major concern and jojoba is known to flourish under controlled low water conditions. As such, jojoba wax esters were explored for skin care to reduce inflammation and sensitivity and to provide hydration over a 24-hr period.

Genemarkers Ct2302 Lead

Environmental Stress Panel for Evaluating Diesel Particulate Matter==> download our unique Gene Expression Panels Guide at no cost

Genemarkers, a trusted partner for applying genomic technologies to personal care product development, has launched a new testing service to evaluate how product formulations protect or repair skin in response to diesel particulate matter (DPM).

In evaluating how different solvents may affect the rheology of personal care formulas, it is helpful to consider that different formulation types have distinct relationships between viscosity and elasticity depending on the factors generating their elastic properties.

How Natural Butylene Glycol Advances Market and Rheology Dynamics

Demand for sustainable ingredients in cosmetics and personal care is well-known. Here, a sustainable natural butylene glycol is described to advance this trend and its effects on viscosity and elasticity are assessed in five test formulas.

Studies have demonstrated that wild teasel could be a natural source of bioactive compounds, particularly phenolics and iridoids, and have confirmed its high potential for the cosmetic industry. For example, teasel features strong antioxidant activity, especially in leaf extracts

DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study

This study authenticates D. fullonum from raw material to final ingredient. It compares D. fullonum and D. sylvestris in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.

The molecular richness of immature pericarps of Punica granatum was identified and extracted to develop a natural active that targets four biological components of acne. Its efficacy was investigated as described in this article.

Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract Takes Transversal Routes to Rebalance Acneic Skin

The molecular richness of immature pericarps of Punica granatum was identified and extracted to develop a natural active that targets four biological components of acne. Its efficacy was investigated as described in this article.

A jasmine-based skin care solution is described here to reduce this impact by activating gentle touch receptors and thereby improve well-being and skin integrity.

Jasmine Activates Mind/Skin Wellness Through Touch Receptor

A jasmine-based skin care solution is described here to reduce this impact by activating gentle touch receptors and thereby improve well-being and skin integrity.

In the case of fluctuating PET results for w/o products, it can be useful to increase the number of samples to verify the results.

Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part II: Making Microbiological Safety Assessments

The relevance of microbiological tests for w/o formulas has been questioned, mandating a more holistic approach. This second article in a series examines the failure rate of PETs for w/o products but looks at why this does not mean insufficient stability.

This article describes an approach to demonstrate the moisturizing efficacy of an upcycled postbiotic ferment using a novel digital imaging system that captures changes in the skin surface upon treatment.

Microrelief x Capacitance Reveal Moisturizing Effects of an Upcycled Postbiotic in Hand Skin

This article describes an approach to demonstrate the moisturizing efficacy of an upcycled postbiotic ferment using a novel digital imaging system that captures changes in the skin surface upon treatment.

Genemarkers Ct2209 Lead

Next-generation Sequencing for Personal Care Product Development

Introducing Genemarkers’ NextGen sequencing, a cost-effective method for analyzing differentially expressed genes to detect novel biomarkers. This method can help discover new pathways and biological mechanisms of action for ingredients and formulations.

Like other markets, efficacy testing, including for cosmetics, is projected to have a substantial increase in revenue by 2027, largely due to pharmaceuticals and biotechnology making constant advancements in relation to public views and the pandemic.

Efficacy Testing Market Worth $423 Million by 2027

Like other markets, efficacy testing, including for cosmetics, is projected to substantially increase in revenue by 2027, largely due to pharmaceuticals and biotechnology making constant advancements in relation to public views and the pandemic.

Microbiological test methods for w/o formulas have raised questions in terms of their suitability. They also require a more critical view of the results than other product types. This first article in a two-part series reviews the limitations of such methods and options for their optimization. It also critically observes to what extent test results provide relevant information for an appropriate safety assessment. Part II, in August 2022, will explore a holistic approach to more accurately assess microbiological safety.

Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part I: Test Performance and Limitations

Microbiological test methods for w/o formulas have raised questions in terms of suitability. They also require a more critical view of the results than other product types. This first article in a two-part series reviews the limitations of such methods.

To prevent and repair UV-induced skin damage, a sustainable ingredient was developed from Sargassum vulgare, a brown seaweed that naturally evolved phlorotannins to defend against UV damage. The algae was fermented using a proprietary yeast to enrich this bioactive content; the resulting ingredient was tested as described here for skin benefits.

Brown Seaweed Ferment Propagates UV Damage Protection for Skin

To prevent and repair UV-induced skin damage, a sustainable ingredient was developed from Sargassum vulgare, a brown seaweed that naturally evolved phlorotannins to defend against UV damage.

To test such products under real-use conditions, an exaggerated cumulative clinical is proposed and demonstrated here in a study assessing the mildness of a care cleansing formula. In today's reality, cleansing products must be developed to overcome the potential adverse effects caused by frequent and repeated use.

Exaggerated Wash Test to Clinically Validate ‘Care Cleansing’ Mildness

To test such products under real-use conditions, an exaggerated cumulative clinical is proposed and demonstrated here in a study assessing the mildness of a care cleansing formula.

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