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672 Results
Type: Article
Section: Testing
Safety/Stability
Toxicological Evaluation of Cosmetics: A Primer
A cosmetic toxicologist can provide a clear-eyed view of the potential hazards and quantifiable risks of a product based on its composition. This primer briefly explains how.
Methods/Tools
Words from Wiechers: All That is Good is Bad
We need to keep in mind that we may be able to maintain an appearance of youth and even measure the difference in a chemical marker in two people; but we need to avoid the Dorian Gray effect.
Testing
Fighting AGEs Formation: Upcycled Artichoke Inhibits Glycation, Increases Skin Firmness
Upcycling organic waste into cosmetics has been of interest for the growing sustainability trend—and artichoke, in particular, demonstrates anti-aging activities. Described herein is the development of an upcycled artichoke byproduct, which was tested for effects on skin glycation and elasticity.
Testing
Propanediol Caprylate: Shifting the Microbiome, Sebum Levels and Classic Approach to Dandruff
Propanediol caprylate was previously shown to deactivate
Malassezia
for dandruff control. In parallel, its effects to shift the balance of
Cutibacterium
and
Staphylococcus
in the scalp microbiome, and reduce dandruff and sebum are explored here.
Efficacy
Industry Insight: Testing the Most Efficient Color Shampoo/Conditioner Duos
In this "Industry Insight," Sabina Wizemann, senior chemist of the Health, Beauty and Environmental Sciences Lab at the Good Housekeeping Institute has evaluated shampoo and conditioner pairs to identify the best performers for hair dye retention. In a recent interview, she explained how she tests these products, analyzes their efficacy and claims, and which duos exemplified the highest efficacy, compared with other products.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: In the Land of the Blind, the One-eyed Man is King
"Regulatory bodies claim that everything should be tested against a placebo, but they should also learn to see there is a difference between fundamental science and applied science," the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., writes, in this month's column. He also explains blinded studies.
Organic/COSMOS
Confounding Labels: One ‘Natural’ = 100+ ‘Chemicals’
As most formulators are aware, creating a product with three or more botanicals in it means a final formula containing more than 200 chemicals. How is this better for skin? It's not, according to this commentary.
Anti-aging/Face
Safe and Strategic: Hyaluronic and Retinoic Acid Derivative Allays Aging and Acne
A hyaluronic acid and retinoic acid derivative were developed to combine their individual anti-acne and anti-aging efficacies. In vitro and in vivo testing, described here, showed the conjugate penetrated skin to exert the desired biological activities—in low concentrations and without irritation.
Sun Protection
‘Cleaning Up’ Sun Care: Natural Wax/Surfactant Blend for Sustainable Performance
Many clean beauty edicts emphasize the replacement of synthetic ingredients with sustainable and natural-derived materials wherever possible. Maintaining the same or better efficacy, however, poses a formulation challenge. This article explores the efficacy of multipurpose natural wax/surfactant blend to replace several traditional materials with one.
Testing
Glowing Review: Monk Fruit Encourages Epigenetic Well Aging
Monk fruit extract can be used in a holistic approach to target mature skin. It improves physical and emotional well-being by balancing the skin's epigenetic signature to achieve homeostasis. In this article, the effects of a monk fruit extract are tested on dermal structure, hyaluronic acid and skin radiance. Artificial intelligence also is used to assess its emotional impact on the quality of life in mature women.
Efficacy
Lasting Impression: A Consumer-centric Approach to Measure Transfer-proof Lipstick
Described here is the development of a test method combining consumer input with instrumental measurements to assess the transfer-proof performance of lipsticks. Three lipsticks with varying transfer-resistance efficacy are then put to the test using this method.
Efficacy
Simple and Sensorial: Amino-modified Silicone Protects and Revives Hair
Multifunctional ingredients can simplify hair care routines by offering protection, performance and sensory benefits in one step. Herein, a terminal hydroxy amino-modified silicone is tested for its effects on hair breakage, drying time, wet and dry combing, colorfastness and more.
Consumers/Market
Industry Insight: Antibacterial Functionality Enters Hair Care
In this "Industry Insight," Lisa Marie Garcia (LMG), president of innovation, and Roy Joseph, Ph.D., chief scientific officer and vice president of R&D, both of Farouk Systems, discussed changes in the hair care market in light of the pandemic and their company’s antibacterial line. Following is an excerpt adapted from our discussion.
Testing
Soothing Moves:
Cannabis Sativa
Cell Culture Alleviates Inflammation
The field cultivation of hemp is tasked by today’s large-scale demand. Here, a
Cannabis sativa
cell culture extract is proposed as a sustainable alternative. After initial characterization, the extract was tested as described here for efficacy against inflammatory markers for skin-soothing activities.
Sensory
Testing Tactics in Skin: Keratinocytes as Sensory Nociceptors
Humans value senses of touch and warmth while enjoying their surroundings but pain and itch are also part of this experience. The present column explores Transient Receptor Proteins (TRPs), how they sense pain and itch, and their potential application in skin care and anti-aging products.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Mediocre Mediocracy?
In this installment of our Words from Wiechers series, cosmetic scientists are reminded to not just perform proper science, but also to communicate the results properly and in the right context to avoid misinterpretation—and misinformation.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Crossmodal vs. Lineal Perception
Lineal perception relates to a direct line between a stimuli and a single sensory interpretation. Crossmodal perception refers to responses and interpretations of various senses to a stimulus, offering product developers opportunities to create novel consumer experiences.
Literature/Data
[update] Comparatively Speaking: Matter vs. Mind Claims
This "Comparatively Speaking" was revived from 2008 for its relevance today. In it, Tony O’Lenick posed the question: What’s the difference between a "mind" claim and a "matter" claim? Industry expert Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., explained.
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