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Color Cosmetics
Industry Insights: Q&A with Estée Lauder’s SVP of Global Clinical, Consumer Sciences on One-of-a-Kind Complexion Research
“A shade can be technically close to a person’s skin tone and still not look completely natural in every situation.”
Method/Process
Testing Tactics: Measuring What Matters in Color Cosmetics
Effective product evaluation requires combining multiple approaches—analytical, instrumental, expert, and consumer-led testing—to ensure a product's consumer promise is accurately measured.
Safety/Stability
Establishing a Clear Framework for Safety and Claims in Personal Care Products
Independent third-party certification is vital for transparency and market success.
Methods/Tools
How In silico Innovation is Transforming Cosmetic Ingredient Discovery and Development
This article delves into in silico methods including AI and machine learning for cosmetic ingredient discovery and development. It covers virtual screening, QSAR analyses and molecule repurposing, and gives a case study in progress for psoriasis peptides.
Method/Process
Advances in Beauty and Personal Care Testing: Novel In vitro Models, Multi-Test Combos, ‘Evidence Packages’ and Real-World Exposure
Advances in analytics and in vitro models are revolutionizing R&D in cosmetics and personal care. This article explores trends, cutting-edge research and expert insights on how these technologies are shaping the future of ethical, efficient testing.
Balancing/Soothing
Sea Buckthorn to Calm Oxi-Inflammatory Assault in Sensitive Skin
A sea buckthorn leaf extract was developed to calm the oxi-inflammatory environment induced by exposome assaults, to protect epidermal lipids and to soothe sensitive skin. A model mimicking lipoperoxidation in the epidermis was used to assess its effects.
Actives
[interview] How Protein Instability Serves as a Biomarker of Aging — Cosmetic Victories Profile with IBGC/CNRS
"...The rationale is to measure the acceleration of natural protein aging in response to various endpoints of the exposome..."
Hair Care
Testing Tactics: Decoding Repair and Conditioning Claims to Deliver Real Results in Hair
This article explores the evolving world of hair conditioning and repair, including prevalent
bonding
claims. It examines what these terms mean, the types of damage being addressed, tests to substantiate these claims and how consumers perceive them.
Method/Process
Frizz Factors Revealed: A Novel Approach Linking Humidity, Moisture and Hair Porosity
A simple method is described here to measure frizz formation under low-to-high and high-to-low relative humidity. The results are converted to a frizz ratio and correlated with moisture sorption and hair porosity, as will be shown.
Method/Process
Beyond Claims: Leveraging Life Cycle Assessment for Strategic Advantage
With 80% of a product’s environmental impact influenced by decisions made at the design stage, life cycle analysis can provide valuable data to guide formulators in selecting materials that align with sustainability goals and support claim substantiation.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Efficacy
Beauty Before-and-Afters: How Better Imagery, AI, Social Media and Testing Are Changing the Game
“A high-quality before and after image offers a huge range of benefits. It pushes transparency. You’re no longer stating a claim, you’re demonstrating it."
Method/Process
Testing Tactics: How Sensory Testing Bridges the Gap Between Technology and Consumer Experience
This article delves into the role of sensory testing in the development of cosmetics for skin and hair. Its applications, methodologies and unique place in the innovation toolbox are highlighted, along with expert insights and journal article examples.
Method/Process
Modeling and Targeting Cell Communication, Senescence and Immunoevasion to Support Skin Longevity
The present work sought to develop in vitro models to study the mechanisms of key hallmarks of aging: cellular communication, senescence and immunoevasion. The models were then used to test the efficacy of natural actives targeting these mechanisms.
Method/Process
Detecting the Protective Power of a Hair Health Multi-peptide: An Integrated Approach
This work measures the antioxidant potential of a hydrolyzed cicer seed extract, a multi-peptide derived from chickpeas, to protect hair. Advanced methods such as FTIR, DCFH-DA assays, cyclic fatigue and DSC testing are combined for a comprehensive view.
Consumers/Market
Digital Tech in Beauty: Ingredient Discovery, Early Trend Spotting, Personalization, Digital Collabs, Molecular Design and More
Digital technology is nothing new for cosmetic product developers. What is new is how smart it has gotten — and how creative we're getting at leveraging it. Here, several industry experts share their ideas for current and future applications in beauty.
Method/Process
Testing Tactics in Skin: Evaluating Radiance and Texture
Hydrated, even-toned skin with a natural glow, all indicators of health, has gained popularity in the last decade. This article explores the meaning of skin radiance, its relationship to texture and various ways to measure this desired attribute.
SPF/Sun
[update] How ISO's Endorsement of Two Test Methods Will Enlighten Sunscreen Development
After 10 years, sunscreen developers are nearing the finish line for more ethical, cost efficient, reliable and faster testing thanks to ISO's endorsement of two standards. The final vote was in September 2024. Here, two experts explain what this means.
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