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Type: Article

Section: Testing

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Niacinamide Platform Delivers Double Duty to Protect Products and Skin

Niacinamide is known for its skin benefits. Here, select ingredients were combined with it and explored for its potential to also protect against contamination. MIC data and challenge testing are presented, supporting the ingredient’s dual functionality.

Butterfly Edit

Beyond Claims: Leveraging Life Cycle Assessment for Strategic Advantage

With 80% of a product’s environmental impact influenced by decisions made at the design stage, life cycle analysis can provide valuable data to guide formulators in selecting materials that align with sustainability goals and support claim substantiation.

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Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals: Murraya Koenigii Extract Case Study

Murraya koenigii extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.

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Testing Trending Hair Care and Skinification Claims

Various test methods, some borrowed from skin care, can be used to validate hair product claims. This article reviews several, including conditioning, anti-breakage, hydration, skinification-related, damage repair, anti-dandruff, anti-hair loss and more.

Pictured here is a clinical test subject before/after captured by Visia skin analysis. This image was created during a clinical test of RoC Skincare RoC 35 protocol users. All tests were conducted at clinics in France, with participants aged 45-plus, who reported their skin looked an average of 9.6 years younger after 90 days.

Beauty Before-and-Afters: How Better Imagery, AI, Social Media and Testing Are Changing the Game

“A high-quality before and after image offers a huge range of benefits. It pushes transparency. You’re no longer stating a claim, you’re demonstrating it."

Pink Background Dropper On Glass Disc Clear Liquid

Testing Tactics: How Sensory Testing Bridges the Gap Between Technology and Consumer Experience

This article delves into the role of sensory testing in the development of cosmetics for skin and hair. Its applications, methodologies and unique place in the innovation toolbox are highlighted, along with expert insights and journal article examples.

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Modeling and Targeting Cell Communication, Senescence and Immunoevasion to Support Skin Longevity

The present work sought to develop in vitro models to study the mechanisms of key hallmarks of aging: cellular communication, senescence and immunoevasion. The models were then used to test the efficacy of natural actives targeting these mechanisms.

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Microbiological Considerations for Refillable Bulk Cosmetics: Survey and Commentary

The commercial sale of refillable products in bulk now includes liquid galenic formulas. Their diverse flow chains pose unique microbial challenges, as shown here, underlining the importance of flow chain planning and assessment tools/strategies.

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Detecting the Protective Power of a Hair Health Multi-peptide: An Integrated Approach

This work measures the antioxidant potential of a hydrolyzed cicer seed extract, a multi-peptide derived from chickpeas, to protect hair. Advanced methods such as FTIR, DCFH-DA assays, cyclic fatigue and DSC testing are combined for a comprehensive view.

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Microalgal Bio-retinoid: A Retinol Alternative to Gently Rewind Signs of Photoaging

This article compares the efficacy of a bio-retinoid from microalga with that of retinol and bakuchiol to reverse signs of photoaging in vitro. Its efficacy, safety and skin-soothing effects vs. retinol and bakuchiol are also explored in clinical trials.

Bee wax honey dipper spray bottle

How Bee-friendly Aqueous Propolis ‘Sticks it’ to Microbiota Dysbiosis, Skin Conditions

An aqueous, or white propolis, extract was tested in vitro and shown to affect microbiota connected with skin conditions. In vivo trials also demonstrated the ingredient’s safety and efficacy in reducing skin discomfort, dryness and body odor.

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Digital Tech in Beauty: Ingredient Discovery, Early Trend Spotting, Personalization, Digital Collabs, Molecular Design and More

Digital technology is nothing new for cosmetic product developers. What is new is how smart it has gotten — and how creative we're getting at leveraging it. Here, several industry experts share their ideas for current and future applications in beauty.

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Testing Tactics in Skin: Evaluating Radiance and Texture

Hydrated, even-toned skin with a natural glow, all indicators of health, has gained popularity in the last decade. This article explores the meaning of skin radiance, its relationship to texture and various ways to measure this desired attribute.

'[Sunscreen] developers will be able to innovate more efficiently while maintaining high standards of quality and safety for consumers.'

[update] How ISO's Endorsement of Two Test Methods Will Enlighten Sunscreen Development

After 10 years, sunscreen developers are nearing the finish line for more ethical, cost efficient, reliable and faster testing thanks to ISO's endorsement of two standards. The final vote was in September 2024. Here, two experts explain what this means.

For desirable hair styles, both stiffness and flexibility are necessary – but the two properties are generally considered incompatible.

Isomalto-oligosaccharides Naturally Balance ‘Stiffness’ with Flexibility for Hair Styling Benefits

This article describes enzymatically controlled naturally derived isomalto-oligosaccharides. It demonstrates how they balance stiffness and flexibility to maintain hair styles, as well as reduce the need for synthetic setting polymers.

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Testing Tactics: Approaches to Measure Scalp Comfort and Care

This article describes examples of test methods beyond standard skin hydration, sebum and TEWL measurements being used help create scalp care products that address conditions such as inflammation, redness, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and more.

After 14 days, M. cochinchinensis extract improved stinging, irritation, itch and discomfort by 67%, 100%, 91% and 100%, respectively.

Holistically Derailing the Sensitive Scalp ‘Rollercoaster’

A Maclura cochinchinensis extract was developed to provide holistic relief for sensitive scalps by derailing multiple interconnected aspects of this “rollercoaster” condition. The active’s efficacy was tested in vitro and in vivo as described here.

What does biodegradable actually mean? There are many misconceptions around biodegradability, even among those involved in the development, substantiation and communication of a biodegradable product. This stretches from R&D and regulatory affairs experts to marketeers, all of whom have a different degree of understanding of the term.

Peeling Back the ‘Biodegradable’ Label

Industry experts have varying degrees of understanding of biodegradability. This article aims to close the gaps by presenting the science, explaining terminology and clarifying calculations and testing to help those vested better understand it.

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