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Type: Article

Section: Testing > Microbiology

In the case of fluctuating PET results for w/o products, it can be useful to increase the number of samples to verify the results.

Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part II: Making Microbiological Safety Assessments

The relevance of microbiological tests for w/o formulas has been questioned, mandating a more holistic approach. This second article in a series examines the failure rate of PETs for w/o products but looks at why this does not mean insufficient stability.

Microbiological test methods for w/o formulas have raised questions in terms of their suitability. They also require a more critical view of the results than other product types. This first article in a two-part series reviews the limitations of such methods and options for their optimization. It also critically observes to what extent test results provide relevant information for an appropriate safety assessment. Part II, in August 2022, will explore a holistic approach to more accurately assess microbiological safety.

Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part I: Test Performance and Limitations

Microbiological test methods for w/o formulas have raised questions in terms of suitability. They also require a more critical view of the results than other product types. This first article in a two-part series reviews the limitations of such methods.

To test such products under real-use conditions, an exaggerated cumulative clinical is proposed and demonstrated here in a study assessing the mildness of a care cleansing formula. In today's reality, cleansing products must be developed to overcome the potential adverse effects caused by frequent and repeated use.

Exaggerated Wash Test to Clinically Validate ‘Care Cleansing’ Mildness

To test such products under real-use conditions, an exaggerated cumulative clinical is proposed and demonstrated here in a study assessing the mildness of a care cleansing formula.

Genemarkers Ct2206 Lead

Assessing the Effects of Blue Light on the Skin in New Validated Method

Studies have shown blue light can have damaging effects on the skin. Genemarkers has developed a reproducible in vitro method for measuring blue light effects. Learn how Genemarkers’ blue light testing can aid product development.

To assess the potential of citizen science for skin microbiome research, the work described here used a consumer test kit deployed in a pilot study of 59 participants to collect data. The results of a case study and more are outlined.

Citizen Science for Skin Microbiome Research—A 'Microbiome-friendly' Case Study

To assess the potential of citizen science for skin microbiome research, the work described here used a consumer test kit deployed in a pilot study of 59 participants to collect data. The results of a case study and more are outlined.

Eurofins Ct2203 Lead

Reduction of skin stress by CBD products: Aiming high above the competition

The use of cannabinoid products is growing in popularity. Formulate with cannabinoids confidently with effective technology development strategy from Eurofins – download a free brochure on CBD testing for safety and compliance.

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Stress and Psoriasis: How TCM Herbs Can 'Cool' Inflamed Skin

This study explores how TCM can be leveraged in skin products to holistically improve conditions such as psoriasis. In particular, properties of honeysuckle, Rehmannia glutinosa and rhubarb are described and tested here in vivo.

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Analyze, Optimize: Ensuring Pollution Won’t ‘Get Under Your Skin’

Anti-adhesion, removability, anti-penetration and cleansing properties were assessed in steps, as described here, to optimize formulas for effective anti-pollution protection. An approach was designed to test cosmetic ingredients and formulas for their abilities to suppress the negative effects of pollution in skin.

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Securing Skin: Polysaccharides Deliver Anti-pollution Protection

The present work tests the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cosmetic polysaccharides for anti-pollution benefits. Air pollution is rising and can negatively impact skin. As such, anti-pollution cosmetics are trending.

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Fighting AGEs Formation: Upcycled Artichoke Inhibits Glycation, Increases Skin Firmness

Upcycling organic waste into cosmetics has been of interest for the growing sustainability trend—and artichoke, in particular, demonstrates anti-aging activities. Described herein is the development of an upcycled artichoke byproduct, which was tested for effects on skin glycation and elasticity.

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Propanediol Caprylate: Shifting the Microbiome, Sebum Levels and Classic Approach to Dandruff

Propanediol caprylate was previously shown to deactivate Malassezia for dandruff control. In parallel, its effects to shift the balance of Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus in the scalp microbiome, and reduce dandruff and sebum are explored here.

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Industry Insight: Testing the Most Efficient Color Shampoo/Conditioner Duos

In this "Industry Insight," Sabina Wizemann, senior chemist of the Health, Beauty and Environmental Sciences Lab at the Good Housekeeping Institute has evaluated shampoo and conditioner pairs to identify the best performers for hair dye retention. In a recent interview, she explained how she tests these products, analyzes their efficacy and claims, and which duos exemplified the highest efficacy, compared with other products.

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Safe and Strategic: Hyaluronic and Retinoic Acid Derivative Allays Aging and Acne

A hyaluronic acid and retinoic acid derivative were developed to combine their individual anti-acne and anti-aging efficacies. In vitro and in vivo testing, described here, showed the conjugate penetrated skin to exert the desired biological activities—in low concentrations and without irritation.

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Glowing Review: Monk Fruit Encourages Epigenetic Well Aging

Monk fruit extract can be used in a holistic approach to target mature skin. It improves physical and emotional well-being by balancing the skin's epigenetic signature to achieve homeostasis. In this article, the effects of a monk fruit extract are tested on dermal structure, hyaluronic acid and skin radiance. Artificial intelligence also is used to assess its emotional impact on the quality of life in mature women.

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Soothing Moves: Cannabis Sativa Cell Culture Alleviates Inflammation

The field cultivation of hemp is tasked by today’s large-scale demand. Here, a Cannabis sativa cell culture extract is proposed as a sustainable alternative. After initial characterization, the extract was tested as described here for efficacy against inflammatory markers for skin-soothing activities.

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Testing Tactics in Skin: Keratinocytes as Sensory Nociceptors

Humans value senses of touch and warmth while enjoying their surroundings but pain and itch are also part of this experience. The present column explores Transient Receptor Proteins (TRPs), how they sense pain and itch, and their potential application in skin care and anti-aging products.

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Mitigating 'Maskne:' Boldo to Balance Sebum, Bacteria and Redness in Acneic Skin

Peumus boldus (boldo) extract was tested for effects on sebum production, S. aureus growth and C. acnes lipase activity in vitro, as well as on skin redness in vivo. This work aimed to develop a natural ingredient to control sebum, inhibit microbes and their activity, and reduce redness in acne-αfflicted skin.

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Omni Antioxidant: Acetyl Zingerone Scavenges/Quenches Reactive Species, Selectively Chelates Iron

Daily exposure to environmental stress keeps skin under a persistent burden from excess ROS. This drives premature skin aging. The present article explores the multiple effects of a single ingredient, acetyl zingerone, to proactively manage excess ROS production via chemical and physical paths.

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