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Method/Process
Testing Tactics: Measuring What Matters in Color Cosmetics
Effective product evaluation requires combining multiple approaches—analytical, instrumental, expert, and consumer-led testing—to ensure a product's consumer promise is accurately measured.
Safety/Stability
Establishing a Clear Framework for Safety and Claims in Personal Care Products
Independent third-party certification is vital for transparency and market success.
Safety/Stability
Is Your NPD Testing Keeping Pace With Cosmetic Innovation?
Ben Elmadi, Technical Manager – Cosmetics, at MSL Solution Providers explains why brands should re-evaluate their approach to NPD testing.
Method/Process
Advances in Beauty and Personal Care Testing: Novel In vitro Models, Multi-Test Combos, ‘Evidence Packages’ and Real-World Exposure
Advances in analytics and in vitro models are revolutionizing R&D in cosmetics and personal care. This article explores trends, cutting-edge research and expert insights on how these technologies are shaping the future of ethical, efficient testing.
Actives
[interview] How Protein Instability Serves as a Biomarker of Aging — Cosmetic Victories Profile with IBGC/CNRS
"...The rationale is to measure the acceleration of natural protein aging in response to various endpoints of the exposome..."
Hair Care
Testing Tactics: Decoding Repair and Conditioning Claims to Deliver Real Results in Hair
This article explores the evolving world of hair conditioning and repair, including prevalent
bonding
claims. It examines what these terms mean, the types of damage being addressed, tests to substantiate these claims and how consumers perceive them.
Sensory
Neuroscents: Leveraging the Predictive Brain for Fragrances that ‘Biohack’ Emotion and Cognition
The predictive brain constructs rather than observes product benefits, and imaging can reveal stages of this construction. This understanding was employed to design fragranced products that influence mood, perception and cognition, as demonstrated here.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Efficacy
Beauty Before-and-Afters: How Better Imagery, AI, Social Media and Testing Are Changing the Game
“A high-quality before and after image offers a huge range of benefits. It pushes transparency. You’re no longer stating a claim, you’re demonstrating it."
Method/Process
Modeling and Targeting Cell Communication, Senescence and Immunoevasion to Support Skin Longevity
The present work sought to develop in vitro models to study the mechanisms of key hallmarks of aging: cellular communication, senescence and immunoevasion. The models were then used to test the efficacy of natural actives targeting these mechanisms.
Anti-aging/Face
Microalgal Bio-retinoid: A Retinol Alternative to Gently Rewind Signs of Photoaging
This article compares the efficacy of a bio-retinoid from microalga with that of retinol and bakuchiol to reverse signs of photoaging in vitro. Its efficacy, safety and skin-soothing effects vs. retinol and bakuchiol are also explored in clinical trials.
Efficacy
How Bee-friendly Aqueous Propolis ‘Sticks it’ to Microbiota Dysbiosis, Skin Conditions
An aqueous, or white propolis, extract was tested in vitro and shown to affect microbiota connected with skin conditions. In vivo trials also demonstrated the ingredient’s safety and efficacy in reducing skin discomfort, dryness and body odor.
Method/Process
Testing Tactics in Skin: Evaluating Radiance and Texture
Hydrated, even-toned skin with a natural glow, all indicators of health, has gained popularity in the last decade. This article explores the meaning of skin radiance, its relationship to texture and various ways to measure this desired attribute.
Efficacy
Isomalto-oligosaccharides Naturally Balance ‘Stiffness’ with Flexibility for Hair Styling Benefits
This article describes enzymatically controlled naturally derived isomalto-oligosaccharides. It demonstrates how they balance stiffness and flexibility to maintain hair styles, as well as reduce the need for synthetic setting polymers.
Efficacy
Holistically Derailing the Sensitive Scalp ‘Rollercoaster’
A
Maclura cochinchinensis
extract was developed to provide holistic relief for sensitive scalps by derailing multiple interconnected aspects of this “rollercoaster” condition. The active’s efficacy was tested in vitro and in vivo as described here.
Efficacy
Hyperbranched Dextrin for Soothing, Microbiome-friendly Skin Care
To provide a natural solution for sensitive skin, a hyperbranched dextrin was developed and tested for soothing and protective effects. The absence of adverse effects on the microbiome also was assessed by a third party, with promising results.
Efficacy
How Dissolving HA Microneedles Change Before/After Application
Dissolvable microneedles have gained popularity to overcome the skin barrier and deliver actives. Here, SEM was used to evaluate changes that occur to microneedles upon application. The results could provide claims and regulatory classification insights.
Efficacy
Jojoba Oil Esters Ease Inflammation, Sensitivity and Water Loss from Skin and the Environment
Water scarcity has become a major concern and jojoba is known to flourish under controlled low water conditions. As such, jojoba wax esters were explored for skin care to reduce inflammation and sensitivity and to provide hydration over a 24-hr period.
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