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Methods/Tools
OxiProteomics Nails Down Keratin Care Claims
As it turns out, even fingernails are not impervious to the negative effects of daily stress in the environment, as shown by a new test method developed by OxiProteomics. The company was awarded for its innovation at the Parisian event Cosmetics 360.
Consumers/Market
Expert Opinions: Clean Beauty
Featuring insights on label transparency, performance, safety, greener chemistries, Pickering emulsions and more, this month's collection of "Expert Opinions" is all about clean beauty. Click through to the digital magazine for the complete article.
Safety/Stability
A Safety, Toxicity and Irritation Testing Primer
To ensure a product’s success, especially in light of ‘clean beauty’ tenets, it must be tested for stability as well as safety and efficacy. The following primer offers an overview of key tests to perform as products are developed and prepared for launch. Click through to the digital magazine for more.
Efficacy
A Soft Touch—Concepts in Hair Softness
Softness technically seems the opposite of stiffness but measuring properties related to fiber stiffness is difficult due to hair’s anisotropic structure. And while hair is technically “softened” at elevated humidity, this is the definition of a “bad hair day.” Improving fiber flexibility without adversely impacting breakage seems a sound technical strategy... Click through to read more in the digital magazine.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Who Do You Think You're Fooling?
In this edition, Wiechers admonishes us to “make cosmetic science into something we can be proud of again,” and reminds us that “cosmetic science is only as bad as you and I make it." Read on to learn more about who's "fooling" whom.
Methods/Tools
Kao's Fine Fibers Impart Moisture, Activate Proteins in Skin
A specialized polymer solution is sprayed through a small-sized applicator nozzle, which forms the membrane. It is not only light and soft, but also demonstrates a high capillary force.
Efficacy
Data Confirms Symrise Deodorant Active is Microbiome-friendly
Symrise reports, in a first-of-its-kind study, the company's antiperspirant active was shown to be safe for the axillary microbiome.
Methods/Tools
Givaudan Launches i-MAPS Microbiome Profiling for Personalized Products
Every profile provides exclusive information about the bacteria present in the microbiome and correlates it to a skin type such as oily, dry, sensitive or aging.
Companies
BASF, Bimilennia Team Up for Microbiome Research
Using Biomillenia's technology, BASF will explore how active ingredients can modulate the presence and growth of skin microbiota, and consequently, modulate skin's health.
Efficacy
[video] Valorizing Ingredient Efficacy: On Location with Sederma
In addition to 2D models, Sederma's 3D skin equivalent and other customized models, e.g., to measure pollution, pigmentation, etc., make links between ex vivo and in vivo results, bringing results closer to reality. Learn more in this behind-the-scenes look. Watch now.
Literature/Data
Researchers Uncover Role of Exosome in Hair Growth
Scientists from SILAB and the French National Institute of Health and Medical Research have uncovered a communication pathway between dermal fibroblasts and the dermal papilla that could stimulate the regrowth of hair.
Methods/Tools
Words from Wiechers: How Scientific is Cosmetic Science?
Academic versus commercial science are explored in this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series. Here, O'Lenick reflects on Wiechers's view of science, additionally highlighting his omission of the end user's experience.
Event Coverage
Snail Slime, MMP-2 Trigger and More: Advances in Delivery and Efficacy at IFSCC19
Using the same approach to develop or test a product will not result in a step-change innovation. For this reason, new solutions to deliver, develop and test product efficacy were presented during the 2019 IFSCC Conference.
Literature/Data
Kao Connects Capillary Flow with Skin Condition
In research focused on physical functions in skin, Kao Corp. uncovered a link between the regulation of capillary blood flow and the condition of skin.
Skin Care
Skin-hydration Data Released on Anhydrous Oat Active
The new cutaneous skin hydration, consumer perception and 28-day comedogenicity studies support previous research. The full results will be available at booth #335 during the California SCC Suppliers' Day.
Literature/Data
Keratin Blend Anchors Follicles and Prevents Pollution-induced Hair Fall
Poor scalp health compromises hair quality. As such, the topical application of keratins was explored to increase collagen IV in the scalp skin. Live scalp explants were used to test this approach for improved follicle anchoring and, in turn, protection against environmental assault, hair fall and damage.
Efficacy
Aubergine Mutes TRPV1 and Boosts TRPV-3 and -4 to Reinforce and Comfort Skin
While the causes of sensitive skin are not confirmed, they most likely are due to a neurogenic inflammation after the enhanced activation of sensory proteins in keratinocytes. The present work tested the ability of a
Solanum melongena
(aubergine) cell culture extract to inhibit sensory mediators of discomfort and activate barrier-boosting pathways.
Literature/Data
Industry Insight: Seeing Through Layers of Skin Care Complexity
"With today’s advances in
omics
, generally ceramidomics, proteomics or lipidomics, we understand much better the complexity of area lipids in the stratum corneum; not only for body skin, but also for the face," says Tony Rawlings, Ph.D., in this exclusive interview.
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