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22 Results
Type: Article
Section: Testing > Efficacy
Tech Transfer
Words from Wiechers: Dancing to the Dollar
In this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series, co-author O'Lenick disagrees with Wiechers's belief that cosmetic and pharma businesses are driven by the same dynamics. Read on to learn more.
Testing
Propanediol Caprylate: Shifting the Microbiome, Sebum Levels and Classic Approach to Dandruff
Propanediol caprylate was previously shown to deactivate
Malassezia
for dandruff control. In parallel, its effects to shift the balance of
Cutibacterium
and
Staphylococcus
in the scalp microbiome, and reduce dandruff and sebum are explored here.
Method/Process
Scale-up Success Requires Compromise
The in-cosmetics Global technical session on scale-up success was, in and of itself, a scale-up success as it left standing room only for a crowd of attendees eager to learn tips, tricks and best practices.
Event Coverage
Editor's Note: Testing the Comfort Zone
Is it just me, or 10 years ago—perhaps even five—would we never have expected to see epigenetics or visible light emerge in the context of cosmetics R&D?
Literature/Data
[update] Comparatively Speaking: Matter vs. Mind Claims
This "Comparatively Speaking" was revived from 2008 for its relevance today. In it, Tony O’Lenick posed the question: What’s the difference between a "mind" claim and a "matter" claim? Industry expert Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., explained.
Moisturizing
Biomimetic vs. Traditional Skin Moisturization: An In vivo Comparison*
To alleviate skin dryness, humectants and occlusive substances are traditionally used, mostly in combination. A third, relatively recent approach is biomimetic, i.e., active ingredients with lamellar structure containing skin-identical lipids. The aim of this study was to determine whether a biomimetic cream could deliver superior moisturization to human volunteers, compared with a conventional moisturizer containing petrolatum and mineral oil.
Literature/Data
Industry Insight: Seeing Through Layers of Skin Care Complexity
"With today’s advances in
omics
, generally ceramidomics, proteomics or lipidomics, we understand much better the complexity of area lipids in the stratum corneum; not only for body skin, but also for the face," says Tony Rawlings, Ph.D., in this exclusive interview.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: The INCI Names vs. Properties of Silicone Surfactants
Surface tension is a ruling factor in the formulator's world. In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick explains its influence on foam and wetting; he also demonstrates how little the INCI name reveals about a material's properties.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Stroke of Genius: Successive Combing Force Yields Realistic Conditioning Results
Combing tests are widely used to characterize the conditioning performance of products at one snapshot in time. A successive combing force device was designed to more realistically simulate the entire shampooing and conditioning process. Here, the authors put it to the test.
Efficacy
Reduction of skin stress by CBD products: Aiming high above the competition
The use of cannabinoid products is growing in popularity. Formulate with cannabinoids confidently with effective technology development strategy from Eurofins – download a free brochure on CBD testing for safety and compliance.
Method/Process
Modeling and Targeting Cell Communication, Senescence and Immunoevasion to Support Skin Longevity
The present work sought to develop in vitro models to study the mechanisms of key hallmarks of aging: cellular communication, senescence and immunoevasion. The models were then used to test the efficacy of natural actives targeting these mechanisms.
Efficacy
Aubergine Mutes TRPV1 and Boosts TRPV-3 and -4 to Reinforce and Comfort Skin
While the causes of sensitive skin are not confirmed, they most likely are due to a neurogenic inflammation after the enhanced activation of sensory proteins in keratinocytes. The present work tested the ability of a
Solanum melongena
(aubergine) cell culture extract to inhibit sensory mediators of discomfort and activate barrier-boosting pathways.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part I: Personnel, Facilities and Equipment
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part II will appear in our July 2018 edition.
Efficacy
Targeting Texture: Adapted Combing Test to Assess Curly Hair Product Efficacy
Changes in hair styling practices have increased the demand for hair products to maintain naturally textured hair condition and health. In relation, the current work aimed to develop test methods using naturally textured hair to assess products and ingredients specified for these hair types.
Sensory
'Zapping' Sensitive Skin: Capsaicin Tests Show
Embelia concinna
Comforts Irritation
In previous work, a flavonoid-titrated active ingredient based on
Embelia concinna
was shown in vitro to calm and soothe sensory neurons stimulated with capsaicin. Here, those results are confirmed in vivo using a capsaicin stinging test with human volunteers.
Sensory
Author Commentary: John Jiménez and Mauricio Guzman Alonzo on Synesthesia in Cosmetics
Most everyone knows what it's like to be a consumer. More recently, product developers have been tapping into this experience to evoke emotional connections in consumers. John Jiménez and Mauricio Guzman Alonzo, authors in our latest issue, have been leading this charge for cosmetics development. Here, they share their insights.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part II: Cultures, Growth Media, Reagents and Testing
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part 1 covered personnel, facilities and equipment, test materials and procedures, and documentation. Part 2 addresses microbial cultures and growth media, biochemical reagents, test procedures and more.
Methods/Tools
Rubbing Shoulders with Massage for Improved Penetration
Rubbing is a common application method for topical products, though evidence of its efficacy remains scarce. The present article reviews research in support of this application theory. It also identifies what investigation is still needed.
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