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Section: Testing > Efficacy
Literature/Data
Skin Pigment Genetics is More Complex at the Equator
New research published in
Cell
presents genetic findings related to skin pigment diversity and complexity, further supporting the trend for customizable skin care.
Tech Transfer
Words from Wiechers: Dancing to the Dollar
In this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series, co-author O'Lenick disagrees with Wiechers's belief that cosmetic and pharma businesses are driven by the same dynamics. Read on to learn more.
Actives
CLR Study Update: CutiBiome CLR Shows Anti-dandruff Efficacy
CLR announced updated research results for its CutiBiome CLR ingredient: in vitro and in vivo tests now indicate anti-dandruff efficacy.
Efficacy
VIDEO: P&G Scientists on Claims Substantiation in Anti-dandruff Care
Head & Shoulders recruits an army to prove the benefits its brand delivers to consumers. Hear more in this video.
Testing
Propanediol Caprylate: Shifting the Microbiome, Sebum Levels and Classic Approach to Dandruff
Propanediol caprylate was previously shown to deactivate
Malassezia
for dandruff control. In parallel, its effects to shift the balance of
Cutibacterium
and
Staphylococcus
in the scalp microbiome, and reduce dandruff and sebum are explored here.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Indolyl for Smarter Skin Whitening
Skin whitening still ranks among the top demands from cosmetic consumers, especially those in Asia. As such, Unilever researchers have been seeking safer, more efficient means to manage melanin. Their answer? Quite possibly, indolyl. A new patent application explains.
Method/Process
Scale-up Success Requires Compromise
The in-cosmetics Global technical session on scale-up success was, in and of itself, a scale-up success as it left standing room only for a crowd of attendees eager to learn tips, tricks and best practices.
Event Coverage
Editor's Note: Testing the Comfort Zone
Is it just me, or 10 years ago—perhaps even five—would we never have expected to see epigenetics or visible light emerge in the context of cosmetics R&D?
Literature/Data
[update] Comparatively Speaking: Matter vs. Mind Claims
This "Comparatively Speaking" was revived from 2008 for its relevance today. In it, Tony O’Lenick posed the question: What’s the difference between a "mind" claim and a "matter" claim? Industry expert Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., explained.
Moisturizing
Biomimetic vs. Traditional Skin Moisturization: An In vivo Comparison*
To alleviate skin dryness, humectants and occlusive substances are traditionally used, mostly in combination. A third, relatively recent approach is biomimetic, i.e., active ingredients with lamellar structure containing skin-identical lipids. The aim of this study was to determine whether a biomimetic cream could deliver superior moisturization to human volunteers, compared with a conventional moisturizer containing petrolatum and mineral oil.
Literature/Data
Industry Insight: Seeing Through Layers of Skin Care Complexity
"With today’s advances in
omics
, generally ceramidomics, proteomics or lipidomics, we understand much better the complexity of area lipids in the stratum corneum; not only for body skin, but also for the face," says Tony Rawlings, Ph.D., in this exclusive interview.
Method/Process
Test Model Developed to Predict Skin Permeability of Compounds
A test model published in the
Journal of Chromatography A
uses retention on octadecyl, cholesterol-bonded and immobilized artificial membrane columns to accurately predict the skin permeability of compounds.
Companies
Nature
and Estée Lauder to Honor Up-and-coming Female Researchers
In a new partnership, Nature Research, publisher of the industry-renowned journal
Nature
, and multinational cosmetics giant The Estée Lauder Companies will present early-career female scientists with awards for innovating and inspiring science.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: The INCI Names vs. Properties of Silicone Surfactants
Surface tension is a ruling factor in the formulator's world. In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick explains its influence on foam and wetting; he also demonstrates how little the INCI name reveals about a material's properties.
Literature/Data
[podcast] Author Commentary: Estelle Loing, Ph.D., on Safeguarding Squalene
Estelle Loing, Ph.D., global R&D director for IFF/Lucas Meyer, authored a new article about protecting squalene from pollution-initiated oxidation. In this podcast, she explains the inspiration for this work.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Stroke of Genius: Successive Combing Force Yields Realistic Conditioning Results
Combing tests are widely used to characterize the conditioning performance of products at one snapshot in time. A successive combing force device was designed to more realistically simulate the entire shampooing and conditioning process. Here, the authors put it to the test.
Claims/Labeling
China Cracks Down on Misleading Cosmetic Claims—Here's How to Comply
With tighter cosmetic regulations in China, the country is watching for and subduing misleading or false product claims. To avoid penalties and ensure compliance, regulatory consulting firm ChemLinked offers solutions.
Efficacy
Reduction of skin stress by CBD products: Aiming high above the competition
The use of cannabinoid products is growing in popularity. Formulate with cannabinoids confidently with effective technology development strategy from Eurofins – download a free brochure on CBD testing for safety and compliance.
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