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Type: Article

Section: Testing

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Dancing to the Dollar

In this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series, co-author O'Lenick disagrees with Wiechers's belief that cosmetic and pharma businesses are driven by the same dynamics. Read on to learn more.

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Propanediol Caprylate: Shifting the Microbiome, Sebum Levels and Classic Approach to Dandruff

Propanediol caprylate was previously shown to deactivate Malassezia for dandruff control. In parallel, its effects to shift the balance of Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus in the scalp microbiome, and reduce dandruff and sebum are explored here.

Testing SPF 15–100, Indoor vs. Outdoor

Lab tests on sunscreens show it takes more energy to produce mild erythema on protected skin than unprotected skin. Yet the FDA questions the need for SPFs higher than 50. In response, two outdoor studies were conducted using commercial products to challenge standing premises and determine if there is a measurable difference in an SPF 100 and SPFs of 50 or less.

Testing SPF 15–100, Indoor vs. Outdoor

Lab tests on sunscreens show it takes more energy to produce mild erythema on protected skin than unprotected skin. Yet the FDA questions the need for SPFs higher than 50. In response, two outdoor studies were conducted using commercial products to challenge standing premises and determine if there is a measurable difference in an SPF 100 and SPFs of 50 or less.

Compass—Affinity to Water

While our path may appear to veer far from water, its status as the universal solvent will bring us back to the source.

Compass: Direct Routes

Will a flourishing category ever chance revealing this truth behind naturals to consumers? Perhaps so, as the naturals market becomes more saturated and key manufacturers seek ways to drive consumer interest into new areas.

Computer-aided Formulating

Informatics techniques have been developed that are capable of manipulating huge data sets that underpin modern formulation—from mining for information, to analyzing vast amounts of data. This article highlights how the use of computer technology can increase the efficiency and efficacy of formulating.

Compass—Best Foot Forward

From an insider’s view, safety testing is an assumed step in the development of any product on the market. This puts the pressure on analytical and quality control efforts behind the scenes to ensure that ingredients and products meet or exceed expectations. In doing so, theoretically, no one else has to give it a second thought. For those who must give it considerable thought, this edition features two articles on testing, among other topics.

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Scale-up Success Requires Compromise

The in-cosmetics Global technical session on scale-up success was, in and of itself, a scale-up success as it left standing room only for a crowd of attendees eager to learn tips, tricks and best practices.

Comparatively Speaking: SPF and Calculated SPF

In order to prepare the industry for the upcoming Sunscreen Symposium, organized by the Florida chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, industry expert Tony O’Lenick asks Dennis Lott to explain the difference between SPF and calculated SPF. This is the first of two columns on sun protection.

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Comparatively Speaking: Inflammation vs. Allergy

Are you formulating for sensitive skin? Or is it really normal skin undergoing a typical inflammatory response? Where do allergic reactions fit in? In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Nava Dayan, Ph.D., explains.

In Sight—QOL Testing: Complementing Clinicals

Personal care efficacy tests are known to test the physical effects or toxicity of products, often omitting more abstract and possibly equally as important factors such as well-being.

Evaluating Hair Conditioning with Instrumental Combing

When formulating a hair care product, there is often a need for testing that validates the product’s technical performance. This testing provides guidance to create formulas with appropriate performance, while also communicating the product’s message to the consumer. This article discusses the use of instrumental combing measurements when formulating hair conditioning products.

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Personalized Cosmetics: Has the Time Come?*

Personalized medicine, aided by advances including pharmacogenomics, is ready for mainstream clinical adoption. These authors suspect such techniques could be applicable for personalized cosmetics, complete with tolerance and efficacy considerations. Click through to the digital magazine to read more.

In Sight—QOL Testing: Complementing Clinicals

Personal care efficacy tests are known to test the physical effects or toxicity of products, often omitting more abstract and possibly equally as important factors such as well-being.

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Editor's Note: Testing the Comfort Zone

Is it just me, or 10 years ago—perhaps even five—would we never have expected to see epigenetics or visible light emerge in the context of cosmetics R&D?

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Comparatively Speaking: Crossmodal vs. Lineal Perception

Lineal perception relates to a direct line between a stimuli and a single sensory interpretation. Crossmodal perception refers to responses and interpretations of various senses to a stimulus, offering product developers opportunities to create novel consumer experiences.

Computerized Measurement and Correction of Color Cosmetics

With a spectrophotometer and computerized color measurement software, the cosmetic chemist can do both basic color quality control and color formulation and correction easily in the lab.

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