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Type: Article

Compass: Song and Dance

This issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries offers its own song and dance to readers with topics of varied interest. They are all hot areas in personal care for various reasons.

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A Delicate Dance: Mildness and Efficacy to Cleanse Compromised Skin

The present article explores the structure of healthy versus compromised skin. It also describes how to balance gentle cleansing formulas for this skin type. Cleansing compromised skin requires a mild and appropriate cleanser, balanced to remove species that cause damage and inflammation, to restore skin health, while also minimally impacting the skin barrier.

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Viral Skin Defense: Phage Therapy, A Commentary

It provides their brief evolutionary history, considers their utility as antimicrobial alternatives, and posits their application in modern skin care. This article offers a commentary supporting the notion of bacteriophages, or phages, in skin care therapeutics.

Targeting The Cutaneous Nervous Network

A synthetic agent with neurotrophic and antioxidant properties has been designed to protect the skin’s sensory neurons from environmental stress and neurodegenerescence, preserving certain physiological responses controlled by the central nervous system.

Gel Network Fundamentals at C&T Summit

Gel networks are at the base of many modern skin care products and hair conditioners, and their formulation is fairly straightforward. During the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit, George Deckner and Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., will present, in hands-on formulation workshops, the practical aspects of gel network-based o/w emulsions for skin and hair care.

In this installment of 'Formulating on Trend,' the author explains how dandruff is caused and further breaks down actives that can help side effects and subside dandruff such as propanediol caprylate, climbazole, perlite and more.

Formulating on Trend: Dandruff Control

In this installment of "Formulating on Trend," the author briefly outlines the causes of dandruff and describes actives to address this condition; including propanediol caprylate, climbazole, perlite and more.

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Sunscreen Dynamics and the ‘Reef Safe’ Dance

Protection against damaging pollution, toxins and electromagnetic waves of all lengths is at the forefront of consumers’ minds; not to mention regulators’. But what happens when a topical solution to one of these forces is at odds with another?

Existing dandruff treatments typically focus on antifungal effects although dandruff is a multicausal condition. Here, dandruff mechanisms and treatments are discussed, and an active based on olive leaf, jujube and levan is tested for its multifunctional effects against M. furfur, dandruff flakes and sebum.

Solving the Dandruff Dilemma Holistically and Naturally

Here, dandruff mechanisms and treatments are discussed, and an active based on olive leaf, jujube and levan is tested for its multifunctional effects against M. furfur, dandruff flakes and sebum.

From Urea/Ammonium Lactate Combinations to Penetration Pathways in Hair

Gloor et al. have raised the question "Do urea/ammonium lactate combinations achieve better skin protection and hydration than either component alone?"

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Lysine Polypeptides for Dandruff Treatment

Dandruff remains a significant yet poorly served chronic scalp disorder for which more effective treatments are required. Here, lysine polypeptides are demonstrated in vitro and in vivo to effectively address the causative organism in dandruff, Malassezia spp., and provide a potential basis for new treatments to counteract this condition.

Net Contents of a Cosmetic: The ‘E’ Mark and Units of Measure

Recently, some European Union member states have expressed concern over the misuse of the Estimated Symbol (℮), often referred to as the “e” mark, on product labels. In addition, some regulators have argued that the International System of Units, known as the metric system, should be used on all product labels to indicate the net contents of a finished product. Both of these concerns have fueled the present column in which the author debates how product labels should indicate the net contents of a cosmetic product. In closing, he comments on the jurisdiction of the CPSC in the United States.

Formulating Shampoo: Strategies, Dandruff and Ingredients

This column reviews basic shampoo formulation strategies then looks to dandruff mechanisms and the ingredients and strategies used to address it, including new concepts on the horizon for future product development.

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Binding Water in 3D: Cellulose Networks for Texture and Sensory Benefits

This article explores a natural raw material sustainably produced from cellulose that improves rheological and sensory properties in cosmetic products. Here, it is tested for matte effects in a face cream, for hair conditioning to reduce combing forces, and for viscosity recovery in sunscreen sprays.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Dancing to the Dollar

In this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series, co-author O'Lenick disagrees with Wiechers's belief that cosmetic and pharma businesses are driven by the same dynamics. Read on to learn more.

Net Contents of a Cosmetic: The ‘E’ Mark and Units of Measure

Recently, some European Union member states have expressed concern over the misuse of the Estimated Symbol (℮), often referred to as the “e” mark, on product labels. In addition, some regulators have argued that the International System of Units, known as the metric system, should be used on all product labels to indicate the net contents of a finished product. Both of these concerns have fueled the present column in which the author debates how product labels should indicate the net contents of a cosmetic product. In closing, he comments on the jurisdiction of the CPSC in the United States.

Cosmetic Ingredients on the EU’s Dangerous Substances List

The Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC was recast as Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on Nov. 30, 2009, and this recast will totally repeal the original legislation on July 11, 2013. While the recast still contains a Dangerous Substances List, elements of the list have changed. This column distills some 1,355 pages of regulation down to review the cosmetic ingredients listed.

A recent study published by Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy details the use of dandelion seeds as a natural source of active constituents.

Study Finds CO2-Extracted Dandelion Seed Offers Cosmetic Bioactivity

A recent study published in Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy details the use of dandelion seeds as a natural source of active cosmetic constituents including fatty acids, among others.

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Product Spotlight: Head & Shoulders BARE Dandruff Shampoo

Hair/scalp care is predicted to climb at a 6.4% CAGR (2025 to 2030), with anti-dandruff holding the largest share (37.8%). Clean beauty is also expected to expand at a 13.2% CAGR (2024-2029). Crossing the two is Head & Shoulders' BARE dandruff shampoo.

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