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Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Sensorial Sebum Absorption
To foam or not to foam; that was the question. P&G inventors went the foam route in a new patent application that marries stability with sebum absorption and aesthetics in a foam composition.
Consumers/Market
Editor's Note: Breakthrough Beauty
What do you consider a groundbreaking trend in beauty? Blue light protection? Anti-pollution? What about sensory synergies, personalized efficacy, or even minimizing undesired ingredients? This issue encompasses some of these breakthrough concepts.
Sensory
Intersecting the Senses: Synesthesia to Connect Cosmetics with Emotion
Synesthesia presents a great opportunity for innovative concepts in the cosmetics field. Considering its potential, a study was undertaken to develop a product design model based on synesthetic evaluations of tactile, audio, scent and taste stimuli, and supported by neuroscience techniques and implicit and explicit evaluations.
Sensory
Author Commentary: John Jiménez and Mauricio Guzman Alonzo on Synesthesia in Cosmetics
Most everyone knows what it's like to be a consumer. More recently, product developers have been tapping into this experience to evoke emotional connections in consumers. John Jiménez and Mauricio Guzman Alonzo, authors in our latest issue, have been leading this charge for cosmetics development. Here, they share their insights.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: The INCI Names vs. Properties of Silicone Surfactants
Surface tension is a ruling factor in the formulator's world. In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick explains its influence on foam and wetting; he also demonstrates how little the INCI name reveals about a material's properties.
Sensory
Symrise’s Thermolat Reveals Warming Test Results
“Thanks to its safe and gentle effect, Thermolat can be used in a very wide range of care and beauty products and gives them the ability to create a cozy warm feeling.”
Sensory
Micelle Mash-up: Study Explores Surfactant vs. Fragrance Partitioning
What happens to the fragrance when you swap out one surfactant in a composition for another? That's what researchers at Firmenich wanted to find out; a newly published study explains.
Sensory
Sensory Insight: Emollient Profiling Accelerates Speed to Market
Sensory science allows cosmetic chemists to evaluate formulas by providing objective and scientific data on the sensory properties raw materials impart in formulations. This article describes a new sensory test called “Oil Sensory Qualification,” which provides formulators with a fast approach to emollient selection using sensory science.
Color Cosmetics
Patent Pick: Matte Makeup and the Feel of Fillers
Matte makeup stands strong in its ability to even out skin tone and absorb excess moisture but wavers in one area: the feel of fillers. This was the focus of a new L'Oréal patent.
Bath/Shower
Editor's Note: Health and 'Swell'ness
The consumer driver for health and wellness will no doubt flow into the New Year and beyond. As such, this issue takes inspiration from the spa world.
Skin Care
Gone in a ‘Flash’: Night Sweats Subside with a Novel Astringent Peptide Spray
Certain peptides have been shown to reduce perspiration. Here, the authors explore their use to develop a spray to treat menopause night sweats. To complicate formulation work, salt-based astringents were desired to provide immediate sensory benefits. The authors address this formulation challenge as well.
Literature/Data
Comparatively Speaking: Inflammation vs. Allergy
Are you formulating for sensitive skin? Or is it really normal skin undergoing a typical inflammatory response? Where do allergic reactions fit in? In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Nava Dayan, Ph.D., explains.
Sensory
Patent Pick: Witch Hazel and More to Exothermally Heat Up Spa Care
The hot consumer market for spa treatments and their at-home spin-offs is about to get hotter. This patent application from Forever Young explores the use of witch hazel, for example, with other exothermic actives in products and an apparatus to impart heat during use.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: In the Heat of Pleasurable Cosmetic Delivery
According to Estée Lauder inventors, personal care manufacturers are heating up the competition for consumer dollars by using heat in cosmetics and personal care experiences. But one particularly chilling roadblock to their development is the need for a portable energy source; as is described here.
Method/Process
New Ideas on Hair Breakage: Mending Existing Flaws
Our historical beliefs as to the causes of hair breakage have been largely shaped by findings from testing approaches. More recently, an alternate mechanical testing technique, fatigue testing, has been changing our perspective on this topic.
Consumers/Market
Opportunity in Diversity: Formulating for the Multiethnic Market
The expanding multicultural beauty market provides opportunity to formulate products specifically to the needs of ethnic skin types. Pigmentation is not the only difference between black and Caucasian skin, the skin barrier and other factors come into play.
Sensory
Patent Pick: Isopulegol Arousal
We consumers take things too seriously. This is evident from the growing demand for products that boost our morale or relax us. While marketers offer numerous (profitable) solutions, perhaps good, old-fashioned fragrance is the answer; that's what a new patent application suggests.
Cosmetic Ingredients
Patent Pick: Super Absorbent Matrix Extends Fragrance Release
Inventors at fashion and fragrance company PUIG have delayed the inevitable—in a good and cross-linked way. A new European patent application explains.
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