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Literature/Data
Manipulating Light in 3D
Researchers from the Australian National University don't take light lightly. In fact, they have mastered the art of manipulating it in what appears to be the best-yet holographic representation in three dimensions. This technology has potential for applications in imaging and augmented reality.
Consumers/Market
Packaging: The ‘Silent Salesman’ of Cosmetics
Product packaging is nearly as important, if not more so, than the ingredients in it. This article examines a brief history, classes and properties of various types of packaging, and provides examples of the latest pack advances.
Sensory
The Perplexing Topic of Hair 'Type': How Do We Classify Hair?
Most hair-related properties and issues can be rationalized by fiber size and shape, and/or the consequences of extreme conditions. However, the varying reactivity of different hair types with chemical treatments suggests potential differences in structure.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Placating Intolerant Skin
Sensitive skin is irritating to the wearer, and in some cases the formulator, but Beiersdorf inventors have discovered an ingredient that placates irritated skin: alkylamidothiazoles.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Tools of the Trade for Sensory Testing
One challenge in manufacturing is the variance in quality of raw materials; another is the mixing process. Mechanical tests, described here in brief, will quickly identify cosmetics and lotions that should be rejected or reworked.
Methods/Tools
Tell Me How You Really Feel
Focus groups provide colorful qualitative data that can set up brands for success.
Efficacy
A Sunny Proposition: The Effects of Sun on Hair
While not nearly as well-documented as skin, plenty of literature indicates the sun can have damaging effects on hair.
Sensory
'Zapping' Sensitive Skin: Capsaicin Tests Show
Embelia concinna
Comforts Irritation
In previous work, a flavonoid-titrated active ingredient based on
Embelia concinna
was shown in vitro to calm and soothe sensory neurons stimulated with capsaicin. Here, those results are confirmed in vivo using a capsaicin stinging test with human volunteers.
Efficacy
Modifying Hair’s Structure From the Inside
Changing hair properties is a regular function of daily-use treatments. But what other methods can be used? Altering the hair’s internal structure may be the next way to achieve these changes.
Efficacy
Coiffed Conundrum: Equating the Measurement of Hair Shine
Shine constitutes the ability for light to reflect off of surfaces. For consumers, perceived shine is indicative of healthy hair. For marketers, it is the gateway to hair product benefits claims. But how can shine be measured to support those claims?
Sensory
Ranking Body Creams by Sensory Properties
Ranking descriptive analysis (RDA) is a sensory test from the foods industry. Here, it is applied to evaluate the properties of four body creams, and the results are compared with those of the well-known quantitative descriptive analysis (QDA) profiling. Findings suggest this technique could positively impact sensory testing for product development.
Hair Care
Balancing Sensory Effects with Improved Scalp Moisture
An oil-based moisturizing ingredient was developed to increase scalp hydration and improve TEWL, while also imparting desired sensory effects to hair. Instrumental and panel tests were performed, described here, which confirmed the ingredient delivered scalp hydration as well as wet hair detangling and softness to hair.
Sensory
Yield Stress Measurements for Personal Care Part II: Methods
The previous article defined yield stress and explained how to calculate the amount needed for a given application. Here, methods for measuring yield stress are compared by determining the values of two materials: a non-thixotropic acrylates copolymer solution, and a thixotropic body wash. The results provide recommendations for methods in terms of relevance, exactness and robustness.
Method/Process
Applied Neuroscience to Understand Cosmetic Consumers: Consumer Study (part II)
By measuring the non-conscious consumer response to products, concepts and before/after results, it is possible to make decisions for product development and marketing, as well as develop product claims. These possibilities are discussed in this three-part series, as are two case studies.
Method/Process
Applied Neuroscience to Understand Cosmetic Consumers: Product Development (part III)
By measuring the non-conscious consumer response to products, concepts and before/after results, it is possible to make decisions for product development and marketing, as well as develop product claims. These possibilities are discussed in this three-part series, as are two case studies.
Method/Process
Applied Neuroscience to Understand Cosmetic Consumers: Definitions (part I)
By measuring the non-conscious consumer response to products, concepts and before/after results, it is possible to make decisions for product development and marketing, as well as develop product claims. These possibilities are discussed in this three-part series, as are two case studies.
Literature/Data
Shaving and its Effects on Percutaneous Absorption in the Skin*
Despite its being an area of concern for many years, the percutaneous absorption of cosmetics has not been rigorously studied. Additionally, the effects of shaving on this process are relatively unknown. An overview of recent research reveals that more research in this area is required.
Methods/Tools
IFSCC 2014 Explores Social, Psychological and Sensorial Aspects of Beauty
As one might expect from an event centered around beauty and staged in Paris, the 28th Congress of the International Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) was nothing less than fabulous. However, the glamour and fanfare was deeply rooted in science.
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