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Sensory
Testing and Developing a Sugar-derived Surfactant Blend for Delicate Skin
Vegetable-derived, mild and sustainable skin cleansing ingredients are in demand, and this has led to the development of new detergent structures. Described here is a combination of two mild surfactants that fulfils these requirements using the concept of “interrupted soap” to impart mildness. Studies to verify the functional, sensorial and mild characteristics of the new blend are detailed.
Tech Transfer
MIT Researchers Develop 'Feature Tuning' Algorithm
Researchers at MIT have developed an algorithm for the “feature tuning” of digital images, specifically faces, for improved memorability and other qualities. While the technology is implicated for effects in social media, it also suggests new considerations for digital imaging in cosmetic product development.
Literature/Data
Columbia Researchers Uncover Touch Sensory Mechanisms
A study published in
Nature
highlights how a team of Columbia University Medical Center researchers have uncovered the mechanisms behind touch; i.e., how humans feel details and textures.
Sensory
Measuring and Pre-selecting Functional Filler Pigments
Functional filler pigments play an important role in adjusting optical properties such as transparency and soft focus effects in cosmetics. However, their suitability for specific formulas is not apparent until time-consuming tests using many different fillers have been conducted. A new method to predetermine the soft focus effects of functional filler pigments is described here.
Sensory
A Dermatological View: Tandem Irritants With Synergistic, Additive or Quenching Effects on the Skin
In this article the results of six published tandem irritation studies are evaluated; possible mechanisms and clinical ramifications, albeit complex, are discussed. The clinical relevance of tandem irritation among cosmetics users and in many occupational settings appears obvious and suggests the need for further studies clarifying its principles and mechanisms.
Sensory
Significant Statistical Differences in Sensory Research
My dictionary has two definitions of the term significant. As others have pointed out, a research finding may be true without being important. When statisticians say a result is “highly significant,” they mean it is very probably true. Importance and meaning are determined by the consumer.
Sensory
UV Transmission Assessment: Influence of Temperature on Substrate Surface
This work evaluates the impact of temperature on test substrate surfaces during the application, spreading and drying steps of the in vitro method to measure ultraviolet (UV) transmission. The authors work in a range between 20°C and 35°C, and demonstrate that controlling temperature is a key test parameter that should be strictly controlled to ensure reliability.
Sensory
Evaluating the Physiochemical Properties of Emollient Esters for Cosmetic Use
This study assesses the physicochemical properties of four known cosmetic emollient esters in vitro to predict their sensorial benefits and correlate their properties with in vivo sensory attributes. This evaluation serves as a guide to selecting specific emollient esters for various cosmetic applications and to predicting their sensory attributes.
Method/Process
Fluorescence LSCM to Assess the Penetration of Low Molecular Protein Hydrolyzates Into Hair
The present study uses confocal laser scanning fluorescence microscopy to assess the penetration of protein hydrolyzates into hair. While higher amounts of protein were found in the cuticle, still significant quantities were observed in the cortical parts of hair, and this penetration was enhanced by longer incubation times.
Sensory
A Novel Method to Measure and Pre-select Functional Filler Pigments
Functional filler pigments play an important role in adjusting optical properties such as transparency and soft focus effects in cosmetics. However, their suitability for specific formulas is not apparent until time-consuming tests using many different fillers have been conducted. Therefore, a new method to predetermine the soft focus effects of functional filler pigments is described here.
Sensory
Evaluating Hair Conditioning with Instrumental Combing
When formulating a hair care product, there is often a need for testing that validates the product’s technical performance. This testing provides guidance to create formulas with appropriate performance, while also communicating the product’s message to the consumer. This article discusses the use of instrumental combing measurements when formulating hair conditioning products.
Sensory
Evaluating the Physiochemical Properties of Emollient Esters for Cosmetic Use
This study assesses the physicochemical properties of four known cosmetic emollient esters in vitro to predict their sensorial benefits and correlate their properties with in vivo sensory attributes. This evaluation serves as a guide to selecting specific emollient esters for various cosmetic applications and to predicting their sensory attributes.
Method/Process
Fluorescence Laser Scanning Confocal Microscopy to Assess the Penetration of Low Molecular Protein Hydrolyzates Into Hair
The present study uses confocal laser scanning fluorescence microscopy to assess the penetration of protein hydrolyzates into hair. While higher amounts of protein were found in the cuticle, still significant quantities were observed in the cortical parts of hair, and this penetration was enhanced by longer incubation times.
Sensory
Tools to Predict, Assess and Standardize Successful Color Cosmetics
Cosmetic companies have borrowed quality control methods from other industries that have product attributes such as color, gloss and texture down to a science. Specialized in such areas, X-Rite has developed tools to enable cosmetic companies to predict future color trends as well as set standards by which future cosmetics will be benchmarked.
Method/Process
Much Ado About Nothing: Cosmetics Testing with a Placebo
In this column, the author investigates the source of the placebo effect. In addition, he asks the question: Must cosmetics testing always incorporate tests against a placebo?
Sensory
Correlation of Long-term Physical Stability of Emulsions with the Short-term Rheological Measurements
Three short-term rheological measurements on some model personal care emulsions showed good correlation with long-term physical instability of the emulsions. Use of these rheological measurements can shorten the time to test the stability of new formulations.
Sensory
Rheology and Texture Analysis Used Together to Improve Raw Material Choices
SEPPIC has developed rheology and texture analysis protocols that, when used in combination, provide useful data regarding the impact of raw material choice on all the development steps: manufacturing procedure, formulation stability, skin feeling.
Sensory
Quality Comparison of W/O and O/W Photo-Protection Creams
The authors determined the quality of a photoprotector W/O cream by evaluating its microbial control, physicalchemical stability and sensory appeal in comparison to an O/W photo-protector cream.
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