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Method/Process
Modeling and Targeting Cell Communication, Senescence and Immunoevasion to Support Skin Longevity
The present work sought to develop in vitro models to study the mechanisms of key hallmarks of aging: cellular communication, senescence and immunoevasion. The models were then used to test the efficacy of natural actives targeting these mechanisms.
Anti-aging/Face
Microalgal Bio-retinoid: A Retinol Alternative to Gently Rewind Signs of Photoaging
This article compares the efficacy of a bio-retinoid from microalga with that of retinol and bakuchiol to reverse signs of photoaging in vitro. Its efficacy, safety and skin-soothing effects vs. retinol and bakuchiol are also explored in clinical trials.
Efficacy
How Bee-friendly Aqueous Propolis ‘Sticks it’ to Microbiota Dysbiosis, Skin Conditions
An aqueous, or white propolis, extract was tested in vitro and shown to affect microbiota connected with skin conditions. In vivo trials also demonstrated the ingredient’s safety and efficacy in reducing skin discomfort, dryness and body odor.
Sun Protection
2025 Will See Faster, More Ethical and Accurate SPF Testing: ISO Approves Two New Methods
In December 2024, the ISO gave its long-awaited final approval of two SPF test methods that experts say are more ethical, economical and accurate than current approaches. One in particular is also reportedly faster, reducing analysis from weeks to days.
Actives
How Dermocosmetics Are Driving the Beauty Revolution:
Beauty Accelerate
2025 Preview
"Euromonitor data shows that, since 2019, more U.S. consumers are looking for skin care features like dermatologist-tested, specific ingredients and clinical formulations, motivated by an underlying demand for safety, transparency and healthy living..."
Event Coverage
⚠️BeautyStat's Ron Robinson to Explore Science-based Beauty at
Beauty Accelerate
2025 👀
Ron Robinson, cosmetic chemist, CEO and founder of BeautyStat, will join the Beauty Accelerate 2025 lineup, participating in the expert panel discussion on: Dermocosmetics and Science-backed Beauty. Register now.
Method/Process
Testing Tactics in Skin: Evaluating Radiance and Texture
Hydrated, even-toned skin with a natural glow, all indicators of health, has gained popularity in the last decade. This article explores the meaning of skin radiance, its relationship to texture and various ways to measure this desired attribute.
Efficacy
Isomalto-oligosaccharides Naturally Balance ‘Stiffness’ with Flexibility for Hair Styling Benefits
This article describes enzymatically controlled naturally derived isomalto-oligosaccharides. It demonstrates how they balance stiffness and flexibility to maintain hair styles, as well as reduce the need for synthetic setting polymers.
Efficacy
Holistically Derailing the Sensitive Scalp ‘Rollercoaster’
A
Maclura cochinchinensis
extract was developed to provide holistic relief for sensitive scalps by derailing multiple interconnected aspects of this “rollercoaster” condition. The active’s efficacy was tested in vitro and in vivo as described here.
Efficacy
Hyperbranched Dextrin for Soothing, Microbiome-friendly Skin Care
To provide a natural solution for sensitive skin, a hyperbranched dextrin was developed and tested for soothing and protective effects. The absence of adverse effects on the microbiome also was assessed by a third party, with promising results.
Efficacy
How Dissolving HA Microneedles Change Before/After Application
Dissolvable microneedles have gained popularity to overcome the skin barrier and deliver actives. Here, SEM was used to evaluate changes that occur to microneedles upon application. The results could provide claims and regulatory classification insights.
Efficacy
Jojoba Oil Esters Ease Inflammation, Sensitivity and Water Loss from Skin and the Environment
Water scarcity has become a major concern and jojoba is known to flourish under controlled low water conditions. As such, jojoba wax esters were explored for skin care to reduce inflammation and sensitivity and to provide hydration over a 24-hr period.
Actives
Xylyx Bio Matrikynes Exhibits Clinical Anti-aging, Barrier Repair Efficacy
The ingredient is based on matrikines, whose intrinsic bioactivity have been shown to activate regenerative mechanisms that can drive tissue repair, the company reports.
Audio
[podcast] How RNA Sequencing Advances Claims Support
RNA sequencing is a newer, more dynamic approach than DNA sequencing to measure the effects of ingredients and products on skin. Rishabh Kala, Ph.D., of Genemarkers, explains its capabilities in this sponsored podcast. Listen now; it's free.
Literature/Data
Kao's New Infant Sebum Testing Protocol Can Flag Atopic Dermatitis, Parkinson's Disease
The move is the start of Kao's expansion into health testing services.
Rheology/Thickener
How Natural Butylene Glycol Advances Market and Rheology Dynamics
Demand for sustainable ingredients in cosmetics and personal care is well-known. Here, a sustainable natural butylene glycol is described to advance this trend and its effects on viscosity and elasticity are assessed in five test formulas.
Consumers/Market
Efficacy Testing Market Worth $423 Million by 2027
Like other markets, efficacy testing, including for cosmetics, is projected to substantially increase in revenue by 2027, largely due to pharmaceuticals and biotechnology making constant advancements in relation to public views and the pandemic.
Method/Process
AmorePacific, Hanyang Univ. Dynamically Visualize UV Dose on SPF-protected Skin
Work by AmorePacific and Hanyang University, Seoul, published in
Skin Research & Technology
, reveals a dynamic approach to visualize UV dose based on MED, weather, outdoor activity, etc., on SPF-protected skin.
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