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People
Ones to Watch: Shilpi Jain
Our "Ones to Watch" series features up-and-comers in and around our industry who have limited experience but unlimited potential. Here, meet Shilpi Jain, whose focus at Skinveda LLC is on topical skin whitening and pain relief, among other areas.
Literature/Data
[podcast] How Caffeine Jump-starts Skin Hydration
The Estée Lauder Companies is getting a real charge out of its latest research findings: caffeine affects skin’s electric potential and enhances hydration. Learn more from our podcast with Jaime Emmetsberger, Ph.D., of Tom Ford Research.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Indolyl for Smarter Skin Whitening
Skin whitening still ranks among the top demands from cosmetic consumers, especially those in Asia. As such, Unilever researchers have been seeking safer, more efficient means to manage melanin. Their answer? Quite possibly, indolyl. A new patent application explains.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Aptamer Aptly Fitted for Anti-aging
MMPs have long been the target of research to inhibit the signs of aging. So, the cosmetic researchers on a new patent from LVMH and INSERM are in good company—albeit with a new, more effective guest molecule. This patent explains.
Consumers/Market
Editor's Note: Breakthrough Beauty
What do you consider a groundbreaking trend in beauty? Blue light protection? Anti-pollution? What about sensory synergies, personalized efficacy, or even minimizing undesired ingredients? This issue encompasses some of these breakthrough concepts.
Consumers/Market
The ‘Skin’ Crowd: Emerging Trends for Technology in Skin Care
As skin care becomes more scientific, consumers are making it a point to better understand their products. Apps and brands tailoring to the consumer experience are amassing a growing following, leading to shifts in purchasing dynamics.
Sensory
Author Commentary: John Jiménez and Mauricio Guzman Alonzo on Synesthesia in Cosmetics
Most everyone knows what it's like to be a consumer. More recently, product developers have been tapping into this experience to evoke emotional connections in consumers. John Jiménez and Mauricio Guzman Alonzo, authors in our latest issue, have been leading this charge for cosmetics development. Here, they share their insights.
Literature/Data
A New Code for Skin Care, Part III: RNA Activation—The Flipside to RNA Interference
As the scientific knowledge of RNAi has expanded, a completely opposite process of RNA activation (RNAa) has been discovered. In this third and final part in our series, gene activation by non-coding RNA is explored for its potential in skin care applications.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Silencing Sweat
Don't sweat the small stuff, they say. But what if the small stuff is causing big problems? Take hyperhydrosis, for example, which involves certain proteins. Thankfully, Unilever has identified them and, as a new patent application describes, is interfering with their genetic messaging to manage this condition.
Cleansing
Comparatively Speaking: The INCI Names vs. Properties of Silicone Surfactants
Surface tension is a ruling factor in the formulator's world. In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick explains its influence on foam and wetting; he also demonstrates how little the INCI name reveals about a material's properties.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers on 'Snake Oil Sellers'
Now more than ever, "snake oil sellers" have access to consumers, which may be, in part, why the industry is consistently under attack. In this first installment of our new "Words from Wiechers" series, column editor Tony O'Lenick shares lessons for the betterment of both formulas and the industry's overall credibility.
Sensory
Micelle Mash-up: Study Explores Surfactant vs. Fragrance Partitioning
What happens to the fragrance when you swap out one surfactant in a composition for another? That's what researchers at Firmenich wanted to find out; a newly published study explains.
Consumers/Market
Time to Shine: The Evolution of Nutricosmetics
While the numbers for nutricosmetics have seen modest growth, they continue to concentrate in specific regions. Considering a number of factors, described here, the time may finally be right for nutricosmetics to shine worldwide.
Consumers/Market
Editor’s Note: Taking Actives to Heart
Consumer love for proven benefits knows no bounds, In fact, the global market for cosmetic actives is projected to reach US $4.45 billion by 2026. That's why we’ve fully embraced this segment in our latest issue.
Sun Care
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part II, Application
Avobenzone is a widely used organic UV filter. Its dynamic nature and unique properties are responsible for its widespread use and forms. This second in a two-part series considers avobenzone’s behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas; part one reviewed its characteristics and behavior in solvents.
Colorant
The Depths of Hair Dyes: Understanding Users, Formulating Answers
The present article touches on misconceptions about ammonia- versus monoethanolamine-based hair dyes. It also analyzes the facts about these ingredients to arm formulators with both the consumer perspective and scientific rationale for ingredient choices.
Literature/Data
Restoring Hair and Scalp Health: Ceramide-2 Analog for Conditioning and Barrier Benefits
Since ceramides are essential for protecting skin and hair, the natural conclusion would be to use them as cosmetic ingredients. However, naturally occurring ceramides are difficult to extract and can carry a high cost. A structural analog to naturally occurring ceramide-2 was therefore developed.
Literature/Data
Green Tea EGCG: Now with Moisture Benefits
The powerful antioxidant properties of epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) from green tea are legendary. What's not are their skin-hydrating and moisturizing benefits, as new findings from AmorePacific and Sungkyunkwan University, in Korea, suggest.
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