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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients

Molecular Biology in Future Skin and Hair Care

Techniques developed in the field of molecular biology are currently being used to screen cosmeceutical ingredients for skin and hair care applications. New findings are published on a daily basis, providing insight with respect to future innovations for skin and hair health and appearance. Several relevant developments are reviewed here.

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Carotenoids for Dietary Photoprotection

Sun exposure leads to the production of free radicals in skin and to damage to elastin and collagen, resulting in premature aging. Studies of consuming carotenoid-rich fruits and vegetables have shown lower incidences of skin pathology. Carotenoids are among the most efficient natural scavengers of free radicals and may be used as oral sun protection, as is discussed here.

Chitin Nanofibrils for Improved Photoprotection

Chitin nanofibrils (CN) are capable of interacting with cosmetic actives by binding to the stratum corneum, thus influencing their thermodynamic activity. Here, the authors test various sunscreen samples and determine that the addition of CN provides an interesting boost to the photoprotective activity of sunscreens.

Lightening, Boosting and Protecting with Colorless Carotenoids

Phytoene and phytofluene (P&P) are carotenoids that are precursors in the biosynthetic pathway of other carotenoids. These materials occur naturally in microorganisms, algae and other plants and exhibit benefits for skin care including skin lightening, anti-inflammatory activity and protection against UV and oxidative damage, as is shown here.

The Henry Maso Keynote Lecture, moderated by COSA chair and vice chair Caryn Weiss, of Amway (left), and Paul Lawrence, Ph.D., of BioCogent (right), respectively, consisted of a conversation with Avantha Arachchi, of A Frame Brands (center) on the importance of inclusivity in products and internal teams.

DEI, Ethnic Hair, Adaptive Photoprotection, Temperature vs. Sunscreen Penetration, Post-procedural Care and More: SCC78 Day Three

Day three of the SCC78 Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase opened with the SCC Annual Awards Breakfast featuring the Henry Maso Keynote Lecture, which set the tone for one of the event's major themes: inclusivity. Here's a brief recap.

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Biotechnology in Beauty: The Future of Formulation – A Cosmetic Chemist’s Perspective

Cosmetics & Toiletries is delighted to welcome the latest addition to its regularly featured content lineup: Biotechnology in Beauty, by Krupa Koestline, chief formulator and owner of KKT Innovation Labs, and the 2024 recipient of the Florence Wall Women in Cosmetic Chemistry Award.

SCC Tackles Claims Substantiation and Genetic Testing at Annual Meeting

At the Society of Cosmetic Chemists' (SCC) Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase, which took place on Dec. 12-13, 2013 at the New York Hilton, pertinent subjects were tackled, such as modern claims substantiation, nanomaterials, genetic testing and cosmetic dermatology.

Technically Speaking: UV Protection for Sensitive Skin

The following column discusses the latest technological advancements in the fields of hair care, skin care, oral care, sunscreen, color cosmetics and more.

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How Standardized Propolis Extraction Yields a Derm-grade Anti-inflammaging Active

Propolis' natural variability challenges consistent extraction, so an alternative non-alcoholic technology was designed to optimize and standardize this. The resulting derm-grade propolis was tested for anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and other benefits.

Water-soluble Phosphate Polymers in Bar Soap for Controlled Release of Antimicrobial Silver

This paper presents data on the antimicrobial performance of a silver ion-releasing phosphate polymer incorporated into a bar soap product. Two studies test the speed, efficacy and longevity of the antimicrobial effect, highlighting the potential of these materials for the controlled, sustained release of bioactive metal ions in cosmetic products.

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Hair and Scalp Care: Lipids, Algae Solutions, Self-esteem, Bond Building, Scalp Health, Personalized, Biotech Derived and More

Scientific advances continue to shape how we approach hair and scalp health. Innovative commercial products have captured the attention of the beauty consumer, driving the market trajectory ever higher. Here, industry experts discuss these dynamics.

Antibacterial and Anti-inflammatory Effects of a Magnolia Extract

P. acnes can exacerbate acne as a result of the inflammatory properties of the cell wall short chain fatty acids and chemotactic factors. Here, researchers investigate the effectiveness of a magnolia extract as an acne treatment, based on the known anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects from magnolol and honokiol within the material.

Anti-aging Skin Care Benefits of Saccharina longicruris Extract

Aging triggers the modification of gene expression levels, negatively affecting skin’s ultrastructural integrity and resulting in dry, saggy skin and the appearance of wrinkles. However, an extract of Saccharina longicruris has been found to restore the expression levels of specific genes in senescent fibroblasts, in turn improving barrier function and hydration, increasing elasticity and reducing wrinkles, which are described in this article.

Attendees of the awards dinner toasted all the finalists, celebrating beauty innovation. Read on to see who came out on top.

And the Winners Are … C&T Presents the 2024 Allē Awards and Merits

Beauty innovators lined the red carpet and graced the stage under the limelight during the exclusive 2024 Cosmetics & Toiletries Allē Awards celebration dinner, held on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore Hotel in Los Angeles.

Pisum Sativum Extract for Safe- and Self-Tanning

The cosmetic industry is challenged to develop active ingredients to provide the skin with a natural, healthy glow without sunlight exposure. Here, the author examines the effects of Pisum sativum extract on melanocytes and shows a time- and dose-dependent increase in skin tone, also suggesting the material could protect skin from UV damage.

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Coffea bengalensis for Antiwrinkle and Skin Toning Applications

Coffea species have been widely evaluated for effects including oxidative stress protection and immunomodulation. The present study therefore evaluates the cosmetic activity of an extract obtained from cultured Coffea bengalensis stem cells. Results showed the extract imparted hydration activity in the keratinocytes, stimulated collagen synthesis in the fibroblasts and enhanced adipocyte differentiation starting from mesenchymal precursor cells.

Nanoemulsions vs. Emulsions in the Delivery of Coenzyme Q10 and Tocopheryl Acetate

This article compares the ability of mixed emulsifier nanoemulsions and polysorbate 60 emulsions to deliver coenzyme Q10 and tocopheryl acetate into the skin. In vitro skin penetration data shows that in newborn pig skin, nanoemulsions can deliver higher amounts of both actives than emulsions.

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When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back: Experimental (part II)

Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here, P. acnes and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.

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