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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients

Therapeutic Peptides in Aged Skin

Here, published work on peptides and proteins, their characteristics, and randomized efficacy data are examined.

UVA Skin Protection: Issues and New Developments

Photoinduced degradation and activity in chemical and mineral UV-absorbing actives results in a decrease in UVA protection during topical use, with a corresponding risk of skin pathologies in the user. New developments in UV absorbers are shown to maintain a stable, high level of UVA protection during use.

Therapeutic Peptides in Aged Skin

Here, published work on peptides and proteins, their characteristics, and randomized efficacy data are examined.

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Startup Solutions: A Survey of Green and Sustainable Innovations

Today is perhaps the most active time in decades for startup firms focused on natural (non-synthetic) and sustainable materials, replacement ingredients, green chemistry and fermentation technologies. This paper surveys several of them.

Cooking Chemistry and the Formulator—Seasonings: Taste and Smell

This article is the last in a four-part series that highlights connections between cooking chemistry and personal care product development, including reactions that occur and why, and how to best utilize these reactions, for the benefit of formulators.

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Brassica Breakthrough: Herbal Anti-acne Alternative Proves Clinically Effective

While there are numerous topical and systemic treatments for acne, antibiotic resistance and toxic interactions are a challenge. This article explores the clinical efficacy of a Brassica oleracea blend as an alternative topical acne treatment.

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Formulating Forum: Crafting ‘Clean’ Beauty Means Returning to the Basics

“Clean” beauty is a rising trend that is focused on simplified, safe product formulas with ingredients that consumers can easily identify. The present article reviews how to craft “clean” beauty formulas by choosing the best ingredients and leveraging their synergies. It also highlights important product categories to address.

Caprylyl Glycol/Phenethyl Alcohol Blend for Alternative Preservation of Cosmetics

In recent years, the safety of traditional preservatives has been called into question. Therefore, there is a need for alternatives that are effective, safe and sustainable—and that are non-controversial. In response, the present work investigates a mixture of caprylyl glycol and phenethyl alcohol, which is shown to provide antimicrobial activity in various skin and hair care formulations.

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Total Wellness Through Traditional: Ayurveda in Cosmetics, Part I

The herbal beauty care business has given rise to an opportunity for ayurvedic cosmetics. To remain genuine to their ancient tradition, one must understand their foundation and the synergy between ayurveda and cosmetics. This first in a two-part series reveals these connections and theories for formulating in this future market. Part two will discuss ingredients and application.

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Indie Sleaze, Brat Summer ... How Market Trends Affect Formula Basics: 7 Experts Weigh In

We often explore how market trends influence product concepts. Less often do we focus on their impact on preservation, rheology and other formula basics. As such, we reached out to industry insiders for their take; here, seven experts weigh in.

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How a Bio-optimized Collagen Peptide Masters Timeless Beauty

A hexapeptide was developed based on the human skin type I collagen sequence. Its activities on skin biomarkers, procollagen I and hyaluronic acid release and for dermal matrix protection and facial contouring benefits, were tested as described here.

Caviar Lime AHAs for Novel TRPV3 Action and Exfoliating Benefits

Caviar lime fruit extract is identified in this article as a source of natural AHAs capable of stimulating TRPV3 channel expression and activity for gentle exfoliation of the skin. Clinical evidence of effectiveness is presented.

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Infusing New Life into an Old Reliable Skin Treatment: Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde is suitable for many skin care applications, and when combined with other substances becomes even more versatile. One of its newest topical delivery systems provides multifunctional opportunities.

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Strategies for Hair Repair, Strengthening and Growth

Many approaches can be used to fight hair damage and aging. These include repairing hair structure to recover as much of its integrity as possible and treating hair with specified ingredients to increase strength and resilience. In addition, promoting hair growth can be accomplished by acting on the scalp. The practical application of these strategies is described here.

Enriched Shea Extract to Target ZAG for Anti-cellulite Effects

In humans, the ZAG protein is a modulator of fat mobilization. The present paper identifies an unroasted shea butter extract, enriched in viminalol esters, as a stimulator of ZAG expression and secretion by keratinocytes in vitro. Further, a complex containing the extract is shown to significantly improve the appearance of cellulite within 28 days of application in a clinical setting.

Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

Antibacterial and Anti-inflammatory Effects of a Magnolia Extract

P. acnes can exacerbate acne as a result of the inflammatory properties of the cell wall short chain fatty acids and chemotactic factors. Here, researchers investigate the effectiveness of a magnolia extract as an acne treatment, based on the known anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects from magnolol and honokiol within the material.

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Hyaluronic Acid Intensified: Cross-linking Improves Stability, Functionality

To enhance the functionality and stability of topical high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HA), derivatives were developed using divinyl sulfone as a cross-linker. The cross-linked HA gels formed were assessed as described here in terms of water-binding capacity, delivery of actives and stability against heat, free radicals, other chemicals and pH changes, and compared with non-cross-linked native HA.

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