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Section: Cosmetic Ingredients

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When Acne Attacks, Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate Fight Back: Experimental (part II)

Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, together with the sebaceous gland, it clearly is implicated in acne. Here, P. acnes and other possible causes are reviewed, and a hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate anti-acne treatment to target them is described.

Recent Advances in Slimming Treatments

Slimming treatments address a number of targets in skin physiology, including: improving microcirculation, strengthening and protecting the connective tissue, and decreasing adipocyte contents. Traditional and newer approaches to slimming treatments employ a number of ingredients to achieve such ends.

Inhibitory Effects of Phyllanthus emblica Tannins on Melanin Synthesis

A standardized extract of Phyllanthus emblica (Syn. Emblica officinalis) fruits has been shown to be a safe and effective skin lightener for normal and hyperpigmented skin as demonstrated by several pilot clinical studies. This report shows melanin inhibitory activity for low molecular-weight hydrolyzable tannins.

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Traditional and Modern Indian Color Cosmetics

The present article reviews traditional Indian color cosmetics, which are used still today, and considers their main ingredients. For example, kajal eye liner is marketed by most multinational brands in India and is regarded as a driver of sales for other products.

Lightening and Illuminating Skin With Acetylated Hydroxystilbenes From Rheum rhaponticum

Skin discoloration and excessive pigmentation due to increased melanin production is associated with skin inflammation and aging. Therefore, an extract rich in acetylated hydroxystilbenes from Rheum rhaponticum was combined with panthenyl triacetate to test in the melanogenesis pathway. The complex strongly reduced melanogenesis and melanin accumulation in human skin explants, decreased melanin content in pigmented spots, increased skin brightness and enhanced skin radiance on the face of human volunteers in a double-blind clinical study.

Part I: The In vitro Effects of a Natural Dipeptide on the Biological Cascade

The peptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-Hexadecylester (NATAH) was found to stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin in cultured human dermal fibroblasts as well as augment the activity of all important actors in the assembly of elastic fibers, including Fibrillin 1, Fibulin 5, Decorin, LOX and Transglutaminase, among others. This is shown here both in monolayer cell cultures and in a 3D skin model.

Exfoliation Scrub And Gommage

Exfoliation, Scrub and Gommage

Cosmetic means for achieving rejuvenated skin can be positioned according to intensity of action, skin renewal speed and some functioning details, thus: gommage, scrub, exfoliation and peel represent the four rejuvenation strategies. In some regions, peel refers to aggressive treatments requiring authorized operators such as dermatologists or medical doctors. Therefore, this column will discuss only the first three methods for a better skin glow.

Three Female Generations Using Makeup

Formulating Demographic Beauty – From Boomers to Generation Alpha

This article is an overview of the unique characteristics, key focus and specific needs of given beauty consumer generations. It highlights biological variations as well as relevant ingredients, preferred product forms and select commercial examples.

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Unlocking the Power of Plant Exosomes (PDEVs) – The New Natural Way of Delivering Cosmetic Efficacy

Plant exosomes could be valuable tools for combating photodamage and premature skin ageing. They are one of the latest innovations in cosmetics, and are one emerging technology that market analysis companies tell us to watch. Read more here.

Find out at our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner, to be held on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore in Los Angeles – alongside our captivating Beauty Accelerate event. Join us!

Which Cosmetic Actives Will Come Out on Top at the 2024 C&T Allēs?

Which actives will win C&T Allē Awards in 2024? Find out at our exclusive red carpet-style awards dinner on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore in Los Angeles – alongside our captivating Beauty Accelerate event. Following are the contenders...

Green Chemistry Concepts in Personal Care and Cosmetics

Since 1996 when the first Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Awards were announced, more than a thousand entries have been reviewed and 62 awards have been presented. The entries represent a wide range of industries.

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In-Cosmetics Highlights Eco-responsible Cosmetics

In-Cosmetics 2011 was highly focused on the development of sustainable personal care products. This trend was found not only in the ingredients launched or highlighted there, but also in the featured seminars and special zones.

Oak Green Tea And Orange Derivatives For Irritaiton

Oak, Green Tea and Orange Derivatives to Disrupt JAK/STAT, NF-κB Irritation Pathways

Activation of NF-κB and JAK/STAT pathways in keratinocytes leads to the release of immunomodulating factors that sustain an amplification loop between the keratinocyte and infiltrating immune cell, leading to skin irritation. To disrupt this loop, two complexes, one based on oak and green tea extracts, and another on orange flavonoids, were developed and are shown here to immediately soothe skin.

Inhibiting Cathepsin G to Protect Against Photoaging and Infra’aging

Ultraviolet and infrared exposure are sources of premature skin aging, characterized by solar elastosis and extracellular matrix degradation. Polygonum aviculare extract is a cathepsin G inhibitor, and is shown here to oppose photoaging and infra’aging by improving skin firmness and elasticity, in turn reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Stimulating Sirtuins' Antiaging Appeal

Nicotinamide, the amide of niacin or vitamin B3, is used to treat arthritis. It also has demonstrated anti-inflammatory actions that may be of benefit in patients with inflammatory acne vulgaris. Nicotinamide, therefore, would appear to play a positive role in inhibiting inflammation but a negative role in aging. Are there other ways to stimulate sirtuins?

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Antioxidants in Sunscreens for Improved ROS Protection

In the present article, sunscreens containing the antioxidants vitamin E and diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate were tested for their efficacy in preventing UV-induced reactive oxygen species in the lower stratum corneum. The addition of the antioxidants was found to significantly improve the ability of low to high SPF sunscreens to attenuate ROS formation in UV-exposed skin.

Fragrance with Antiaging Benefits

Fragrances are blends of synthetic chemicals, essential oils and solvent extracts, known as absolutes. Recent research has evaluated the effects of these natural aromatic products, revealing they can impact processes in skin. Here, the author describes how a fragrance with specially selected naturals can provide a pleasant scent as well as impart cosmetic activity.

Kojic acid has become increasingly popular, as seen in Peace Out Skincare's Dark Spots Serum, featuring kojic acid alongside 3% tranexamic acid and alpha-arbutin.

2025 Beauty Ingredient Trend Preview: What’s Next?

From silk-derived biotech to microbiome sexual wellness and beyond, new ingredients point to future innovation opportunities.

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