This past year in beauty has been defined by emerging technologies targeting skin longevity, exosomal ingredients (check out our “Beauty 2025” trend report for more) and an escalation in biotechnology innovation.
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This past year in beauty has been defined by emerging technologies targeting skin longevity, exosomal ingredients (check out our “Beauty 2025” trend report for more) and an escalation in biotechnology innovation.
Looking ahead at 2025, a number of these trends and more will likely shape product innovation for years to come. Many of these are evolutions of existing or emerging ingredients and claims, pointing to a clear trajectory of growth. Highlights include:
- Minimalist beauty: formulations that reduce or eliminate elements such as water and conventional preservation, supported by multifunctional ingredients, in addition to products that do more, offering higher value to choosy shoppers
- Pro inspiration: ingredients that mimic professional treatments with less invasive solutions
- Microbiome opportunities: with rising interest in barrier strength and sensitive skin solutions, microbiome balance is increasingly a focus of product development
- Clean efficacy: safe, sustainable ingredients with proven effectiveness
- Biotech: lab-grown innovations that offer improved or even novel functions and claims
- Future-proofing beauty: technologies that expand claims from rejuvenation to prejuvenation, particularly for young consumers already concerned about the signs of aging
This is just a fraction of the themes we expect to see in the year to come (and beyond). Here, we offer a look at recent launches and challenges and the innovation opportunities they offer the beauty industry.
Kojic Acid’s Boom Threatened by Regulations
Kojic acid, itself seen as a skin brightening alternative to hydroquinone, is facing restricted use levels (1%) in face and hand products sold the European Union and United Kingdom, effective April 2025.
The restrictions come amid a boom in popularity for the ingredient. In September 2024, Spate reporteda that kojic acid’s effectiveness in combating hyperpigmentation could make it “the next big hyperpigmentation-fighting trend.”
The ingredient is reportedly searched alongside glycolic acid, mulberry extract (beloved for its low-irritation profile), arbutin and, of course, hydroquinone.
The rise of interest in kojic acid, paired with impending regulations, could open opportunities for materials such as soybean extract, niacinamide and vitamin C, as well as the other materials previously mentioned.
Among the key product formats appearing in Google searches over the last 12 months, per Google Trends, are bar soap (popularized by the Valtic brand), facial moisturizers and powders.
In addition to the ingredient searches flagged by Spate, turmeric is often paired with kojic acid searches, perhaps due to its association with brightening effects, in addition to its efficacy in addressing acne-prone skin and skin aging. Mucin, a generally popular ingredient from the K-beauty world, also appears in kojic acid searches.
Brands associated with kojic acid include Valtic, as previously mentioned, alongside Phor Essentials, which produces Turmeric Kojic Acid Exfoliating Cleansing Pads, and Koji White’s Kojic Acid Skin Brightening Body Wash.
Meet the Next Generation of Peptides
Soluble fibroin, the basis for the two Evolved by Nature peptides discussed in this report, is a silk protein most often produced by insects, including moths.berna_namoglu at Adobe Stock
Interest in peptides has likely only just begun, with innovation in the space set to advance with the launch of new biotech materials.
For instance, Evolved by Nature’s Activated Silk 33B-⍺ (INCI: soluble fibroin) water-soluble barrier peptide is designed to reduce the appearance of redness in as little as 1 week, while also reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, per the company.
The material works by spurring the natural production of claudin-1, which supports the epidermal barrier function, thereby reducing TEWL in as soon as 1 week, per Evolved by Nature.
Furthermore, because the Natrue 100% natural technology is soluble in water, it can be formulated into products that ceramides and petrolatum cannot. The ingredient is also biodegradable and generated from upcycled materials, according to the company.
“Everyone has been talking about skin barrier for a few years now,” says Carolina Denman, Evolved by Nature’s director, North America applications R&D and natural ingredients, “but it’s always been the foundation of true and natural skin care because, very simply, a healthy barrier keeps moisture in your skin and keeps free radicals and other environmental hazards out.”
She adds, “Everyone has also been talking about peptides, and our naturally derived peptides do what other ingredients cannot do. Activated Silk 33B-⍺ turns skin on to perform its own skin care—when the peptide interacts with the skin it supports the natural production of claudin, the foundational protein for tight junctions, which is a sign of a healthy barrier.”
Denman continues, "Another benefit of our naturally derived peptides is that they are water soluble, which means 33B is stable and effective in so many formulations where other barrier ingredients like ceramides and petrolatum cannot go. Especially rinse-off formulations. Hand wash. Face wash. Body wash. You rinse the suds off and the peptides stay on the skin doing the work. Nobody else has a barrier ingredient that does that."
Evolved by Nature has also developed Activated Silk 27P-⍺ (INCI: soluble fibroin), a collagen type 1 peptide that supports natural collagen type 1 production to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and enhance the elasticity and firm appearance of the skin, all while boosting the performance of other ingredients, including vitamin C.
The technology can be used in aqueous formulations and is non-irritating and biodegradable.
“This peptide is able to interact with skin to support the natural production of type 1 collagen, the foundational form of collagen that retinol and vitamin C need to be effective,” says Svetlana Marukian, VP, R&D, The Molecule Library, Evolved by Nature. “So, from one perspective, 27P-⍺ outperforms the legacy collagen ingredients, but this peptide also boosts the effectiveness of those ingredients. And 27P-⍺ has a much higher stability than, say, vitamin C, which is vulnerable to oxidation and other degrading factors under so many exposures. And 27P-⍺ is totally gentle and safe for use compared to harsher ingredients like retinols.”
Decoupling ‘Vegan’ and ‘Sustainable
The last five years of Google search data shows that consumers routinely query terms such as “cruelty-free” and “sustainable” alongside vegan beauty, reflecting both shoppers’ interest in products offering all three qualities and the frequent conflation of these concepts.photoguns at Adobe Stock
Jonathan Graham, Evolved by Nature’s senior director of translational marketing, argues, “‘Vegan’ is a marketing word masquerading as a sustainable cause. And it has actually done a disservice to vegans.”
Graham explains, “If you are a vegan, then vegan ingredients are the right choice for you. But when ‘vegan’ is used as a signal for sustainability, it can be very misleading. For one thing, petrochemicals and polyurethane based ingredients can be considered vegan and those are 180 degrees from sustainable. And when you consider the water and energy resources needed to manufacture many vegan ingredients, it pushes them further away from sustainable.”
It should be noted, of course, that soluble fibroin, the basis for the two Evolved by Nature peptides discussed in this report, is a silk protein most often produced by insects, including moths—and is therefore not vegan.
Graham argues, “If we are experts on anything, we are experts on two things—naturally-derived peptides and sustainability. And we know that the truest marker of sustainability is circularity. Upcycling existing, naturally occurring resources from the supply chain, reducing waste and consumption. This is why our peptide technology is both sustainable and cruelty free. Something many vegan ingredients cannot say.”
Expanding Microbiome Claims to Menopausal Sexual Wellness & Odor Control
Calybiota Bio is recommended for intimate hygiene care to alleviate discomfort and soothe and hydrate the intimate area. In this way, Calybiota Bio can improve the sexual well-being of women, particularly post-menopause.millaf at Adobe Stock
The source botanical is an oxalogenic species capable of sequestering carbon. To produce Calybiota Bio, Laboratoires Expanscience reportedly leverages sustainable harvesting of red kapok tree flower calyxes without harming the tree itself.
Calybiota Bio had previously demonstrated its effectiveness in rebalancing women’s vaginal flora through a prebiotic effect on L. gasseri, L. acidophilus and L. jenseni. It is therefore recommended for intimate hygiene care to alleviate discomfort and soothe and hydrate the intimate area. In this way, Calybiota Bio can improve the sexual well-being of women, particularly post-menopause.
Most recently, research showed that a 1.5% concentration of Calybiota Bio “significantly” reduces unpleasant body odors by optimizing the axillary microbiota of men. Per Laboratoires Expanscience, axillary dysbiosis can lead to both a weakened barrier function and unpleasant odors.
The clinical study involved 27 men who, when exposed to a solution featuring 1.5% Calybiota Bio, experienced improved bacterial diversity and quantity. This prebiotic effect included a positive shift in the ratio of Staphylococcus (beneficial species) to Corynebacterium (odor-associated bacteria).
The rebalancing of odor-associated Corynebacterium species reduced the presence of volatile organic compounds (acetic acid, butyric acid and valeric acid), which are responsible for unpleasant odors, by 56.8% within 24 hours.
Beyond intimate care and axillary odor, Calybiota Bio can reportedly be applied in solutions for atopic dermatitis (targeting S. aureus) and acne and seborrheic dermatitis (targeting C. acnes and M. furfur, respectively).
Finding Oxidative Balance
CLR claims its antioxidant CefiraProtect CLR (INCI: betaine (and) isomalt (and) Lactobacillus ferment lysate (and) kefiran) empowers skin to resist aging by helping it maintain its own oxidative balance.
In clinical trials, per the company, CefiraProtect CLR significantly reduced hidden inflammation in 90% of participants, compared to the placebo. This, in turn, helped preserve the skin’s youthful qualities and overall health by maintaining:
- radiance
- firmness
- elasticity
- barrier function
The vegan and fermented skin care material is derived from probiotic Lactobacillus kefiranofaciens from kefir grains. Its benefits are attributed to its kefiran polysaccharide content.
Growth Factors for Enhanced Anti-aging Efficacy
Using a patent-pending plant biofactory production process, Core Biogenesis produces bioactive compounds such as proteins. These proteins are fused to the surface of oleosomes—natural oilseed reservoirs— to create stable actives with enhanced skin delivery.Strelciuc at Adobe Stock
Using a patent-pending plant biofactory production process, Core Biogenesis produces bioactive compounds such as peptides and proteins from the seeds of Camelina sativa plants. These proteins are fused to the surface of oleosomes—natural oilseed reservoirs— to create stable actives with enhanced skin delivery.
The names Peauforia (FGF-2-oleosome) and Peauvita (EGF-oleosome) were inspired by the French term for skin, peau, combined with the concepts of vitality and euphoria.
According to the company, Peauvita (EGF - Oleosome) and Peauforia (FGF2 - Oleosome) were tested in a placebo-controlled clinical trial (n = 60) by a third party using each active at 1%. Results revealed Peauvita significantly reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while boosting skin firmness in just 14 days.
Moreover, Peauforia diminished melanin in hyperpigmented areas and restored the skin barrier within the same timeframe. Taken together, the actives offer a comprehensive solution to target these four primary signs of aging.
“Our focus has been on growth factors, essential proteins naturally found in the skin that diminish with age, contributing to the aging process,” says Alexandre Reeber, president and CEO of Core Biogenesis. “Through our innovative technology, we’ve successfully stabilized two of the most sought-after growth factors, [epidermal growth factor] (EGF) and [fibroblast growth factor 2] (FGF-2), which promise enhanced efficacy for skin care brands and, ultimately, the consumer.”
Lifting x Thickening: Multifunctional Beauty
Seppic’s natural (ISO 16 128), biodegradable Solagum AX thickener (INCI: Acacia senegal gum (and) xanthan gum) was recently clinically shown to impart lifting and other skin benefits just 30 minutes after application.
Additional effects with Solagum AX at 1% include, per the company:
- sensation of freshness during application
- brighter and more radiant skin complexion
- reduction in crow’s feet wrinkles and spots
- skin-softening effects
According to Seppic, Solagum AX is an association of acacia and xanthan gums that is 100% natural and readily biodegradable. The multifunctional rheology modifier is said to perform better than xanthan gum alone in terms of thickening and stabilizing formulas, while bringing film-forming, soothing and moisturizing properties.
The polymer also reportedly imparts a better aqueous sensation with a non-stringy effect and, as previously described, is water-soluble, dissolving quickly, and is compatible with hydrophilic pigments.
Per the company, to create natural and minimalist cosmetics without compromising on performance, formulators have sought natural, multifunctional excipients that go beyond their initial properties. Solagum AX provides a solution.
In addition, per the company, Solagum AX’s higher pH and electrolyte resistance allows it to maintain viscosity even with active ingredients (such as urea, glycolic acid, allantoin and aloe vera gel) or thermal waters.
Next-level Sensory Effects
According to P2 Science, the Citropol polymeric emollients represent the first new liquid polymeric emollients launched since silicones.tatyanarow at Adobe Stock
According to P2 Science, the Citropol polymeric emollients represent the first new liquid polymeric emollients launched since silicones. Citropol DE-4 (INCI: bis-polycitronellyl duccinate), for example, is described as a unique and multifunctional high molecular-weight polymeric emollient. The ingredient is designed to create rich and luxurious textures, elevate the sensory experience of commonly used alkanes, and is said to provide conditioning benefits for hair. Citropol DE-4 is designed to be utilized in various formulations, including skin and hair care, rinse-off and leave-on, and color cosmetics.
Citropol V6 (INCI: bis-polycitronellyl succinate (and) undecane (and) C13-14 alkane), on the other hand, is described as a novel volatile emollient blend that combines spreadability with a light, non-greasy feel, to be used across the spectrum of beauty to create light, airy and second-skin-like formulations.
According to P2 Science, Citropol V6 is able to replace cyclomethicone, a widely used silicone in personal care products known for its smooth feel and quick-drying properties.
A New Generation of Alternatives
A Naturally Derived Phenoxyethanol Alternative
Dermegen Inc. recently launched its Dermacare NP natural synergistic preservative blend as an alternative to phenoxyethanol. Derived through fermentation, the ingredient imparts synergistic activity through its peptide complex and esters and is said to provide “unexpected” broad antimicrobial protection across a wide pH range.
Per Dermegen, while many beauty preservative systems are synthetic, derived from petroleum products and other non-natural sources, Dermacare NP (INCI: water (aqua) (and) 1,3-propanediol (and) glyceryl caprylate (and) epsilon polylysine) is naturally derived from ferment using a patent-pending peptide complex.
Supercharged Bakuchiol: a Retinol Alternative
Lipoid Kosmetik AG’s BakuLipid (INCI: caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) bakuchiol (and) lecithin (and) tocopherol) reportedly combines the retinol-like efficacy of bakuchiol with unsaturated phospholipids to enhance skin penetration for anti-aging skin benefits.
Like other bakuchiols, the ingredient is purported to be gentler than retinol. And, by pairing the material with unsaturated phospholipids, BakuLipid features amplified potency thanks to enhanced skin penetration capabilities.
According to the company, BakuLipid has been proven to outperform conventional bakuchiol in vivo, effectively targeting blemishes and signs of aging, including the appearance of wrinkles. The ingredient also controls sebum production.
Olive-oil-derived D5 Alternative
Tri-K Industries’ Fision EcoSil (INCI: hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate (and) hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables) is an upcycled emollient derived from olive oil esters and unsaponifiables.Naypong Studio
Fision EcoSil reportedly provides better wet combing and a similar hair sensory profile compared to D5. Furthermore, its skin sensory profile is similar to dimethicone. The ingredient features a natural origin index of 1.0, per ISO 16128 1:2016 & 2:2017.
“Currently, there is a noticeable shift among personal care consumers toward the use of naturally derived and upcycled ingredients,” says Uriel Plata of Tri-K Industries. "Simultaneously, there is a growing emphasis on reducing the use of silicones, particularly cyclopentasiloxane (D5), due to stringent regulatory requirements in Europe.”
Plata adds, “As D5 is widely used in personal care formulations, identifying effective alternatives presents significant challenges for formulators. Our Fision Ecosil, derived from olives, provides an ideal solution by addressing the demand for both naturally sourced and upcycled ingredients while delivering performance comparable to D5 in hair care applications and to low molecular weight dimethicones in skin care formulations.”
High-performance, Petrochemical-free Rheology Modifiers
EcoFlexy RP, Cellugy’s cellulose-based rheology modifier, was designed to offer “excellent” performance, “superb” skin feel and high naturality, per the company.Krakenimages.com at Adobe Stock
In nature, cellulose can be found in the cell walls of green plants, some algae and fungus-like oomycetes. Bacterially produced cellulose produced at scale reportedly has the potential to replace fossil-based petrochemicals in consumer products, the firms argue.
This is particularly true for rheology modifiers; many conventional options are derived from petrochemical sources. Cellugy believes it can tap biotech cellulose to produce rheology modifiers that provide the high functionality of petrochemical-derived ingredients with the sustainable profile offered by conventional natural alternatives.
EcoFlexy RP, Cellugy’s cellulose-based rheology modifier, was designed to offer “excellent” performance, “superb” skin feel and high naturality, per the company. The biodegradable technology is made from fermentation-derived cellulose that allows brands and formulators to either replace or supplement conventional rheology modifiers.
Moving forward, Cellugy is working on developing a range of beauty ingredients that improve on sensory, suspension and delivery performance.
Meanwhile, under the Ingenza-Cellugy agreement, which is intended to “accelerate the understanding and optimization of bacterial cellulose production,” Cellugy will leverage Ingenza's knowledge of diverse microorganisms to “identify key factors influencing the cellulose production pathway.”
This will reportedly allow Cellugy to improve cellulose yield and productivity for commercial viability.
“We are thrilled to join forces with Cellugy to explore strategies for improving bacterial cellulose production," says Cristina Serrano, senior scientist at Ingenza. "From a scientist’s perspective, this project is an exciting opportunity to work with a new organism, which will in turn help us to showcase Ingenza’s capabilities and expand our ever-increasing technical knowledge.”
“This partnership with Ingenza perfectly aligns with our commitment to driving sustainability in biotechnology," says Deby Fapyane, cofounder and chief scientific officer at Cellugy. "By combining the expertise of both companies, we aim to accelerate the development of the next generation of bio-solutions for sustainable ingredients for the personal care market.”
A Biodegradable Microbead Alternative
“Walnut shells have several sustainability advantages over conventional microbeads,” says Helen Cantrell, director of marketing and sales, Eco-Shell. “They are biodegradable, while synthetic microbeads persist in the environment for centuries."rocklights at Adobe Stock
Walnut shells also offer biodegradability claims for brands, Cantrell notes.
She explains, “[W]alnut shells help support biodegradability by naturally breaking down over time versus synthetic ingredients that are not biodegradable–a significant environmental concern. Walnut shells are processed sustainably in solar-run facilities and don’t harm aquatic ecosystems when rinsed off. Using walnut shells in cosmetic formulations helps companies align with shopper demands, as consumers are turning to green products for their own health and the health of the planet.”
Furthermore, Cantrell argues that walnut shells pose fewer supply chain challenges compared to other materials.
“Eco-Shell can control quality and supply, ensuring customers get what they need when they need it,” she explains. “As a renewable resource, walnut shells are readily available and not subject to supply chain bottlenecks that other materials face.”
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