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Type: Article

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Interpretation of SPF In vivo Results: Analysis and Statistical Explanation

Methods for determining SPF in vivo are based on a biological response by human skin. To overcome intrinsic variation in these methods, large numbers of volunteers and statistics are required; however, these concepts are often poorly understood or worse, misinterpreted. This article discusses how these values should be interpreted and explains what they mean to formulators.

The Effect Of Formulation Part Ii

Skin and Ocular Flora: The Effect of Formulation, Part 2

This second installment of a two-part article reviews the transient and resident microbial populations of the human ocular area and how they alter with age, environment and exposure to antimicrobial agents. Considerations for the formulator of how cosmetic products may affect and be impacted by the flora also are provided.

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Alternatives to Animal Testing: A Review of Trends and Perspectives

Alternative test methods have the potential to reduce animal testing; however, the extent to which in vitro methods can be replaced is questionable. This article summarizes validated alternatives to test the safety of cosmetic ingredients. It also illustrates how great a challenge it is to devise a proper alternative method.

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Anti-aging, Pigmentation and Acne: The Depths of Chemical Peels

Today's anti-aging consumers diverge between relaxed well-aging and immediate effects—even turning to invasive treatments. In the latter context, this article discusses facial peels, to provide formulators a professional spa product perspective.

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Stimulation of Dermal and Epidermal Metabolism: An Approach to Antiaging

Aging results in a number of modifications to cells and tissues. Here the authors describe an active ingredient from common mallow whose active fraction containing polyphenols and galacturonic acids is able to regulate both dermal and epidermal metabolism much like retinoids do.

In Sight--Fragrance and Raw Materials: Birds of a Feather

There is more to fragrance formulation than meets the eye—or nose that is. Both raw material and fragrance formulators spend significant time in the lab testing different materials to determine which ingredients, oils, extracts, etc. best meet their formulation and consumer’s needs. And although fragrance and personal care are two different industries, the discovery processes prove similar.

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Advances in Stratum Corneum Biology and Understanding of Dry Skin

During the last decade there has been tremendous advancement in our understanding of not only the structure, composition and function of the stratum corneum, but also in its formation and the epidermal differentiation factors responsible for mediating cellular changes in keratinocytes during their journey from the basal layer to the granular layer.

Procyanidin B-2 and the Hair Growing Activity of Proanthocyanidins

Purified apple juice provides procyanidin B-2, a hair growth stimulant with demonstrated effects in murine models both in vitro and in vivo, and in clinical trials on humans with male pattern baldness.

 Hallmarks of Ageing and Their Role in Longevity Skin Care

Recently updated to 12, the hallmarks of ageing describe the biochemical changes associated with biological ageing. Learn more on the primary causes of ageing and antagonistic answers to damage to build the best strategy for your product developments.

Determining Korean Consumers’ Degree of Exposure to Lipstick and Face Creams

This study describes methods used in a Korean study to calculate consumer exposure to lipstick and face creams. The average amount applied daily was estimated and compared with data collected by weighing containers before and after use. The data collected was 1.8 to 1.6 times greater than the estimate, so although the survey represented real use patterns, the actual data was more accurate.

Developing Sunscreens for the Preventive Treatment of Photodamage and Premature Aging

This article reviews the mechanisms of ultraviolet radiation insult to skin and explains the formulation of sunscreens to protect against this damage. Further, since the efficacy of combinations of UV filters will vary with formulation base, the formula vehicle and form are discussed, as well as an overview given of typical sunscreen efficacy tests performed prior to production.

Structured Surfactant Systems for Deposition of Perfume on Skin and Hair

To maximize perfume delivery from structured cleansing formulations, the fragrance must be introduced before structuring the formulation into multilamellar vesicles. Structured formulations fragranced in such a way are shown here to improve perfume deposition and duration versus micellar systems, with no negative impact on perfume burst during use.

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Performance and Sensorial Benefits of Cationic Guar in Hair Care Applications

Cationic guars have demonstrated ability to manage the surface of the hair. This article discusses their physico-chemical properties, their hair conditioning and repairing properties, and their impact on foam sensorial aspects.

Natural Oils for the Prevention of Hair Damage and Other Topics

In a recent patent L’Oreal describes cosmetic compositions containing colloidal silica-alumina composite particles. The composition is used for smoothing wrinkles and skin. An example is shown in Formula 1.

New Liposome Gels by Self Organization of Vesicles and Intelligent Polymers

A new technique for forming liposome of lamellar gels calls for the build up of a nanoarchitecture of lipsomes (lamellar phases) crosslinked with hydrophobically modified water-soluble polymers (self assembly of vesicles and polymers).

NPG ZeroPCF and PA ZeroPCF are drop-in solutions that are identical to their standard counterparts, only they offer a more green solution. The renewable raw material used to produce these products is waste-based.

BASF Offers Neopentyl Glycol and Propionic Acid with Zero Carbon Footprint

NPG ZeroPCF and PA ZeroPCF are drop-in solutions that are reportedly identical to their standard counterparts, only they offer greener solutions. In addition, the renewable raw material used to produce these products is waste-based.

Feasibility Study of Sago Starch for Perfumed and Cooling Body Powders

In the present article, sago starch-containing perfumed and cooling body powders are formulated and their physicochemical properties for potential skin irritation are examined. The results indicate that sago starch could potentially be used as the main component in body powders.

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Highs and Lows of Skin Adherence: Simplifying Skin Substantivity, Part I*

The first in a series, this column reviews the role of substantivity in skin care, which allows penetrants to remain on skin. A case study on the potential dangers of substantivity's effects, when combined with certain ingredients, also is examined.

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