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Section: Testing > Efficacy

Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products

The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.

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Industry Insight: Antibacterial Functionality Enters Hair Care

In this "Industry Insight," Lisa Marie Garcia (LMG), president of innovation, and Roy Joseph, Ph.D., chief scientific officer and vice president of R&D, both of Farouk Systems, discussed changes in the hair care market in light of the pandemic and their company’s antibacterial line. Following is an excerpt adapted from our discussion.

Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage

In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.

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2025 Will See Faster, More Ethical and Accurate SPF Testing: ISO Approves Two New Methods

In December 2024, the ISO gave its long-awaited final approval of two SPF test methods that experts say are more ethical, economical and accurate than current approaches. One in particular is also reportedly faster, reducing analysis from weeks to days.

Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage

In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.

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Editor’s Note: New Frontiers in Hair Follicles

Could the exosome be a new frontier for healthy hair? What about “growing” benefits within the fiber itself? These advances suggest hair is not as “dead” as we thought; or at the very least, the living portion can be influenced. This issue is focused on textured hair treatments and biology, emotional ties to hair, low-water surfactants, water resistance vs. rheology and more.

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Tress Stress: How the Environment Affects Hair

The drive for "anti-pollution" personal care may not apply to hair care as strongly as other segments. Despite this, environmental stressors can impact hair's chemistry. This column provides a scientific basis by which formulation and claims strategies might be constructed.

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A Soft Touch—Concepts in Hair Softness

Softness technically seems the opposite of stiffness but measuring properties related to fiber stiffness is difficult due to hair’s anisotropic structure. And while hair is technically “softened” at elevated humidity, this is the definition of a “bad hair day.” Improving fiber flexibility without adversely impacting breakage seems a sound technical strategy... Click through to read more in the digital magazine.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: In the Land of the Blind, the One-eyed Man is King

"Regulatory bodies claim that everything should be tested against a placebo, but they should also learn to see there is a difference between fundamental science and applied science," the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D., writes, in this month's column. He also explains blinded studies.

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Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products

The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.

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Adaptive Measures: Translating UV Protection to Hair Claims

To test preventative hair care treatments against UV damage, sensitive techniques are required. Here, DSC was used to define a ratio between artificial and natural irradiance levels; from this, methods were built to substantiate claims for UV protection in hair.

Literature Review: Damage, Growth and Conditioning in Hair

This survey of recent literature relates to assessing hair damage, reducing dye allergy, increasing and inhibiting hair growth, cleansing and conditioning hair, and more. The papers are presented as food for thought in the early stages of the product development process, and may warrant deeper investigation.

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Coiffed Conundrum: Equating the Measurement of Hair Shine

Shine constitutes the ability for light to reflect off of surfaces. For consumers, perceived shine is indicative of healthy hair. For marketers, it is the gateway to hair product benefits claims. But how can shine be measured to support those claims?

Measuring Hair Strength, Part I: Stress-Strain Curves

This article is the first in a series that will address the approaches of measuring the “strength” of hair and quantifying the manner by which this property may be altered. Specifically, it will begin with the generation of stress-strain curves through the use of constant rate extension experiments.

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Researchers Uncover Role of Exosome in Hair Growth

Scientists from SILAB and the French National Institute of Health and Medical Research have uncovered a communication pathway between dermal fibroblasts and the dermal papilla that could stimulate the regrowth of hair.

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Hitting the 'Sweet Spot' for Hair Follicle Delivery

Somewhere between small drug molecules and nanoparticles of < 100 nm, there's a sweet spot to deliver active ingredients via their hair follicle. These researchers appear to have found it, using nanogels.

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Conscientious Claims in Hair—Consumer Perception Before Formulation

The author proposes first fully developing claims that address consumer perception to simplify formulating and ensure products pass acceptance tests. The hair care industry is constantly changing, as are its product claims—the latest of which are reviewed here in the context of science vs. consumer language.

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Binding Force: Natural Oxidized Keratin Internalizes Hair Repair

Bond multipliers have been developed to protect and repair hair. One in particular is a novel natural keratin alternative. Here, it is shown to retain fiber flexibility and protect and repair hair by binding intermediate filament proteins within the fiber.

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