Editor’s Note: New Frontiers in Hair Follicles


Could exosome communication be a new frontier for healthy hair growth? Research1, 2 has shown exosomes from dermal papilla cells can induce the active anagen stage of hair growth. They also delay the catagen, or end-of-growth, transition stage and enhance the proliferation and migration of outer root sheath cells.

What about “growing” protective benefits within the fiber itself? P&G scientists previously explained3 that during the ~2 weeks while hair is growing in the follicle, it is being “bathed” by entities in the surrounding scalp tissue. These affect the quality of the fiber as it grows, dictating whether it emerges healthy or not.

Tissue engineering of the human hair follicle is yet another development4 in healthy hair research. On Page DM4, Westgate envisages simultaneous hair transplants plus follicle-enhancing cells for more cosmetically acceptable hair growth.

What do these advances say about today’s hair care R&D? Perhaps that hair is not as “dead” as it once was presumed to be; or at the very least, the living portion can be influenced. This biological connection is reflected in the consumer demand for products that treat both hair and scalp issues, as reported by MarketWatch.5

Also, ResearchandMarkets expects shampoos will remain at the top position in the hair care segment thanks to specialized formulas for not just color-treated or infant hair, but also to address scalp conditions such as dandruff.6 In relation, according to NaturallyCurly,7 products for textured hair are perhaps the hottest among specialty types—and more than 80% of women with curly and coily hair purchase these targeted solutions.

This brings us to our current issue. Here, we’ve focused on textured hair biology and a new test to assess products specified for this hair type. We also consider surfactants that reduce water use in hair and skin cleansing; how ingredients for water resistance affect formula rheology; and provide a hair care formulary, for your inspiration. Finally, a look at emotional connections between consumers and hair rounds out this lovingly crafted edition, just in time for Valentine’s Day.


  1. www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0006291X18308362#!
  2. www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/universitydata/Researchers-Uncover-Role-of-Exosome-in-Hair-Growth-564068981.html
  3. http://cosmeticsandtoiletries.texterity.com/cosmeticsandtoiletries/june_2016?folio=64&oly_enc_id=3136C2788801F4M&r=3136C2788801F4M&pg=10#pg10
  4. www.nature.com/articles/s41467-018-07579-y
  5. www.marketwatch.com/press-release/hair-care-market-2019-global-industry-trends-sales-revenue-industry-growth-development-status-top-leaders-future-plans-and-opportunity-assessment-2023-2019-05-03
  6. www.researchandmarkets.com/reports/4793170/global-hair-care-products-market-by-product-type#pos-3
  7. www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/influential-textured-hair-category-continues-to-revolutionize-the-retail-beauty-marketplace-300763710.html
    (All websites accessed Jan 17, 2020)

Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Managing Editor

[email protected]

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