An analysis of TikTok skin care regimens conducted by researchers in the Department of Dermatology at Northwestern Medicine and published by the journal Pediatrics found that rituals presented by those aged 7-18 featured sunscreen just 26.2% of the time, included an average of 6 products (average total cost: $168) and highlighted actives that can be irritating to young skin.
While concerns around "Sephora kids" using harsh skin care is nothing new, this study is a rare quantification of the content children are seeing on one of beauty's most popular platforms.
Investigators created a TikTok account and set its age at 13. These researchers then reviewed 100 unique videos that were then fed into the account's For You tab.
To determine whether featured ingredients were prone to inducing allergic contact dermatitis, the researchers compared materials against the Pediatric Baseline Series, a "baseline pediatric patch test panel."
The videos reviewed had an average of 1.1 million views, per the study, and featured between 11 and 21 actives flagged by the patch test panel, pointing to a risk of allergic contact dermatitis.
Ingredients such as AHA turned up multiple times, per the researchers, who also found that young influencers sometimes complained on-camera of burning sensations on their skin.
While the sentiment may not be new, this latest research points to the need for more responsible and age-appropriate communication around skin care on social media platforms.
Building Safe Skin Care Habits for Tweens and Teens: A Dermatologist's (and Founder's) Guide for Brands and Parents
To gain perspective on best practices for brands and parents grappling with the influence of TikTok, we reached out to Hallie McDonald, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Gen Alpha focused ERLY Skincare.
Educating Tweens and Teens on Safe Skin Care Practices
To gain perspective on best practices for brands and parents grappling with the influence of TikTok, we reached out to Hallie McDonald, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Gen Alpha focused ERLY Skincare.ERLY Skincare
The aesthetic of a multi-step routine may look appealing online, but it's not realistic or healthy. Especially when it includes adult skin care staples like retinoids or exfoliants. Responsible brands should lead with education (and transparency) and meet younger audiences where they are. It’s vital to engage with teens and tweens about how products are meant to be used, especially when a product is formulated for mature skin.
Engaging with young consumers means having conversation on certain products could lead to long-term damage and actually make your skin worse.
Skin Care Essentials for Tween and Mature Skin: What to Use and Avoid
ERLY Skincare delivers "clean, derm-backed skin care that simplifies routines," according to the brand.ERLY Skincare
What’s out: retinoids, glycolic acid, fragrances essential oils, and intense exfoliants—these can strip the skin, disrupt the barrier, and even cause long-term sensitivity or skin allergies.
What’s in: gentle, fragrance-free cleansers, barrier-supporting moisturizers, mineral SPF 30+ (this is the top priority; see ERLY Start Moisturizer SPF 40 with Peptides), and targeted ingredients like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide (ERLY Daily Soothe Calming Serum) that calm and balance the skin.
Shaping Early Skin Care Habits: The Role of Simplified Messaging and Education
McDonald: This wave of early skin care users is an opportunity for brands to shift their messaging to be more simplified and straightforward within their messaging, focusing on protection rather than correction. Education is the foundation of skin health, and brands have the power to be a part of that early learning.
With so much online discourse, it’s easy for the youth to mimic what’s trending, rather than what’s actually safe. So the key message is to illustrate the importance of building early habits that support your skin, not stress. And when consumers (parents particularly) are aware of the knowledge, they can make smart choices to avoid risks in the long run.
