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58 Results
Type: Article
Section: Testing > Efficacy
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: What You Say is What You Get
This installment of "Words from Wiechers" explores what we see and say about cosmetic products, and cautions to not make “conclusions” that are simply that—conclusions, without underlying science.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: What is 'Normal' Skin Care?
This article series considers the many lessons the cosmetics R&D industry can learn from the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D. The present installment addresses where to draw the line between a cosmetic and drug.
Method/Process
Testing Tactics in Hair: Beyond Biology—Why African Hair is Fragile*
The remarkable shape of African hair can lead to a variety of issues for the wearer. High on this list is a marked propensity for breakage, and efforts to minimize this result in unique hair-related habits and practices. This article describes recent measurement advances that shed much needed light on the reasons for these issues.
Sensory
How Damaged is Hair? Part I: Surface Damage
This article is the first of two that explores ways of capturing and quantifying the different forms of hair damage. Here, we begin with damage to the hair surface, or cuticle, while also exploring the implications of this occurrence. A second article will focus on damage to the internal cortex structure.
Method/Process
How Damaged is Hair? Part III: Better Defining the Problem
By identifying elements at the heart of technical issues in hair, product developers will uncover options to consider for improving its health and appearance. Completing our three-part series, this final piece on hair damage provides insight on new ideas and strategies for problematic hair.
Efficacy
Isomalto-oligosaccharides Naturally Balance ‘Stiffness’ with Flexibility for Hair Styling Benefits
This article describes enzymatically controlled naturally derived isomalto-oligosaccharides. It demonstrates how they balance stiffness and flexibility to maintain hair styles, as well as reduce the need for synthetic setting polymers.
Literature/Data
What do We Know About Depigmenting Agents?
This review examines the efficacy and tolerability of agents such as hydroquinone, ascorbic acid and retinol to treat hyperpigmentation disorders. The authors assess the quality of studies as a tool to determine efficacy of depigmenting agents. Along with outcome, they also analyze study design, participant skin type, duration, intervention and statistical significance.
Nutricosmetics
You Are What You Eat: Nutrient Ratio Affects Skin Structure
New research out of Australia and Norway shows, in a mouse model, how nutrition impacts the structure of skin. Interestingly, the ratio of nutrients had a larger impact than total intake; and the results were gender-dependent.
Methods/Tools
Words from Wiechers: All That is Good is Bad
We need to keep in mind that we may be able to maintain an appearance of youth and even measure the difference in a chemical marker in two people; but we need to avoid the Dorian Gray effect.
Claims/Labeling
Is ‘Anti-pollution’ Just a Ruse?
Remember "naturals?" Where did they lead us? In some cases, to benefit-infused natural products but in others, to greenwashing and chemical-free claims. Enter anti-pollution.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Less is More
The addition of extra ingredients in a formulation costs money, complicates manufacturing, impacts quality control and more. Here, we learn how less is more in product formulating.
Efficacy
Making Hair Loss History: Native Polyphenols to Kick-start Hair Regrowth
Research has shown the deregulation of two major hair follicle cell types are involved in androgenic alopecia: human fibroblast dermal papilla cells (HFDPc) and outer root sheath cells (ORSc). This article explores the effects of an active blend containing dihydroquercetin glucoside and epigallocatechin glucoside to stimulate ORSc and HFDPc, in turn reversing hair loss.
Efficacy
Words from Wiechers: Is Cosmetic Science Really 'Bad'?
In this month's "Words from Wiechers" series, we learn about a metric to evaluate cosmetic science and related claims: The Baloney Detection Kit.
Methods/Tools
Words from Wiechers: How Scientific is Cosmetic Science?
Academic versus commercial science are explored in this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series. Here, O'Lenick reflects on Wiechers's view of science, additionally highlighting his omission of the end user's experience.
Claims/Labeling
Letter to the Editor: 'Anti-pollution is Marketing Hype'
Here we go again, questioning the "anti-pollution" trend. Is it real? Is it hype? This Letter to the Editor has some valid points to the latter. We're also hosting a free, two-part webinar to help sort through it all. You decide.
Literature/Data
Synesthesia is Music to Our Feel and Taste Receptors
"One of the next (applications) we could see is whether music can improve or boost skin hydration."
Methods/Tools
Want the Truth: Claims Development is More Than Just Evidence.*
Both marketing and R&D have major responsibilities in the claims development process. But that’s not all—regulations, risk, vulnerabilities, communication, study design, costs and more also are at play. These and other influences in the claims development process are discussed in the present article.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part I: Personnel, Facilities and Equipment
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part II will appear in our July 2018 edition.
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