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Enhancing Hair Health: Effects of Oiling, Inside and Out—Part I

Hair oiling has been practiced since ancient times and has more recently piqued market interest. Its effects on physical, chemical and sensorial properties have been reported, which the authors review herein. This first of two articles views oiling for hair health from the surface; a follow-up piece will review internal structural benefits.

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Enhancing Hair Health: Effects of Oiling, Inside and Out—Part II

This second installment in a two-part series reviews the literature for research analyzing the benefits of hair oiling at the corticular level; part one examined surface modifications in hair. Here, oil penetration is critically analyzed, along with its internal effects in terms of hair softness, flexibility and strength. These benefits are illustrated in both single fiber and bulk research.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: What You Say is What You Get

This installment of "Words from Wiechers" explores what we see and say about cosmetic products, and cautions to not make “conclusions” that are simply that—conclusions, without underlying science.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: What is 'Normal' Skin Care?

This article series considers the many lessons the cosmetics R&D industry can learn from the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D. The present installment addresses where to draw the line between a cosmetic and drug.

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Making Hair (Claims) Do What You Want

Following in the footsteps of skin care claims, hair care claims are growing bolder as manufacturers try to get an edge on their competition. But no matter how bold the claim, the need for scientific data to substantiate it remains.

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What is Light? A Brief History of Light and Its Behavior

This primer provides cosmetic scientists, engineers and physicists with an understanding of light. The quantum mechanics of history continue today as a guiding paradigm for computers, satellites and mobile communications, in addition to the cosmetically related fields of photoprotection and visual effects imparted through makeup to change appearance.

What’s Happening in Hair Damage, Protection and Repair

Hair damage from environmental and cosmetic treatments is a continuing concern. Efforts are under way to understand hair degradation and devise means to protect and repair hair from the damage. This short review is an attempt to summarize recent advances toward protecting and repairing human hair.

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Testing Tactics in Hair: Beyond Biology—Why African Hair is Fragile*

The remarkable shape of African hair can lead to a variety of issues for the wearer. High on this list is a marked propensity for breakage, and efforts to minimize this result in unique hair-related habits and practices. This article describes recent measurement advances that shed much needed light on the reasons for these issues.

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How Damaged is Hair? Part I: Surface Damage

This article is the first of two that explores ways of capturing and quantifying the different forms of hair damage. Here, we begin with damage to the hair surface, or cuticle, while also exploring the implications of this occurrence. A second article will focus on damage to the internal cortex structure.

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How Damaged is Hair? Part II, Internal Damage

This article is part II in our series on hair damage. It explains the internal cortex structure of hair is not easily visible, and that various mechanical tests can yield different conclusions. Here, tests are described that can show changes to the internal cortex structure and their impact on hair’s mechanical properties.

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How a Kudzu Isoflavone Tonic Mitigates Female Hair Loss

Kudzu isoflavones were explored in vitro for the potential to signal the hair growth cycle in dermal papilla. Promising results led to the development of an anti-hair loss tonic using kudzu root extract, which was tested in vivo in 40 Chinese women.

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Beauty is Universal: Multicultural Conditioning of Damaged Hair

Understanding the consumer hair care needs of diverse populations is increasingly critical. As consumers around the world continue to damage their hair by using thermal styling tools, chemical processes or colorants, restoring hair to a healthy state is a primary consumer need that appears to be universal.

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How Damaged is Hair? Part III: Better Defining the Problem

By identifying elements at the heart of technical issues in hair, product developers will uncover options to consider for improving its health and appearance. Completing our three-part series, this final piece on hair damage provides insight on new ideas and strategies for problematic hair.

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Is the Damage Done? Reduce and Repair Hair Color Damage

This article explores the main changes to hair after regular use of permanent hair colorants and how these changes impact noticeable hair properties such as feel, styling, breakage, etc. It then considers several strategies to reduce the damage caused during hair coloring, or to minimize the impact of damage post-coloring.

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Hair Trio Triumph: Isopentyldiol for Color Care, Strength and Anti-frizz

The hair market moves fast, continuously demanding new concepts for changing trends, with the latest demand being for multitasking benefits. Isopentyldiol is presented as a multitasking tool for color-retention, strengthening and anti-frizz.

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Clinging to Color: Isopentyldiol Boosts Brightness in Dyed and Damaged Hair

Keeping up natural hair color or making a bold statement are of utmost importance to hair color consumers, and isopentyldiol is structured to deeply saturate hair and achieve these effects. This ingredient was put to the test, as described here, in different dye products to study its influence on immediate color performance.

For desirable hair styles, both stiffness and flexibility are necessary – but the two properties are generally considered incompatible.

Isomalto-oligosaccharides Naturally Balance ‘Stiffness’ with Flexibility for Hair Styling Benefits

This article describes enzymatically controlled naturally derived isomalto-oligosaccharides. It demonstrates how they balance stiffness and flexibility to maintain hair styles, as well as reduce the need for synthetic setting polymers.

100 Years: What's Next?

A century of tenacity in an industry is a significant measure of a company’s ability to do something—and do it well. Achieving a 100-year milestone takes leading progress and adapting to change. Since its inception in 1906 as The American Perfumer, Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) magazine has watched and furthered the progressive work of bench chemists from around the world.

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