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103 Results

Type: Article

Section: Testing

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: What You Say is What You Get

This installment of "Words from Wiechers" explores what we see and say about cosmetic products, and cautions to not make “conclusions” that are simply that—conclusions, without underlying science.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: What is 'Normal' Skin Care?

This article series considers the many lessons the cosmetics R&D industry can learn from the late Johann Wiechers, Ph.D. The present installment addresses where to draw the line between a cosmetic and drug.

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What is Light? A Brief History of Light and Its Behavior

This primer provides cosmetic scientists, engineers and physicists with an understanding of light. The quantum mechanics of history continue today as a guiding paradigm for computers, satellites and mobile communications, in addition to the cosmetically related fields of photoprotection and visual effects imparted through makeup to change appearance.

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Testing Tactics in Hair: Beyond Biology—Why African Hair is Fragile*

The remarkable shape of African hair can lead to a variety of issues for the wearer. High on this list is a marked propensity for breakage, and efforts to minimize this result in unique hair-related habits and practices. This article describes recent measurement advances that shed much needed light on the reasons for these issues.

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How Damaged is Hair? Part I: Surface Damage

This article is the first of two that explores ways of capturing and quantifying the different forms of hair damage. Here, we begin with damage to the hair surface, or cuticle, while also exploring the implications of this occurrence. A second article will focus on damage to the internal cortex structure.

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How Damaged is Hair? Part II, Internal Damage

This article is part II in our series on hair damage. It explains the internal cortex structure of hair is not easily visible, and that various mechanical tests can yield different conclusions. Here, tests are described that can show changes to the internal cortex structure and their impact on hair’s mechanical properties.

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How Damaged is Hair? Part III: Better Defining the Problem

By identifying elements at the heart of technical issues in hair, product developers will uncover options to consider for improving its health and appearance. Completing our three-part series, this final piece on hair damage provides insight on new ideas and strategies for problematic hair.

For desirable hair styles, both stiffness and flexibility are necessary – but the two properties are generally considered incompatible.

Isomalto-oligosaccharides Naturally Balance ‘Stiffness’ with Flexibility for Hair Styling Benefits

This article describes enzymatically controlled naturally derived isomalto-oligosaccharides. It demonstrates how they balance stiffness and flexibility to maintain hair styles, as well as reduce the need for synthetic setting polymers.

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What do We Know About Depigmenting Agents?

This review examines the efficacy and tolerability of agents such as hydroquinone, ascorbic acid and retinol to treat hyperpigmentation disorders. The authors assess the quality of studies as a tool to determine efficacy of depigmenting agents. Along with outcome, they also analyze study design, participant skin type, duration, intervention and statistical significance.

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What Food Science Can Lend to Skin Care

What insights can personal care leverage from the foods industry? This article explores food trends, sensory language and metrics that translate across these categories.

You Are What You Eat: Nutrient Ratio Affects Skin Structure

New research out of Australia and Norway shows, in a mouse model, how nutrition impacts the structure of skin. Interestingly, the ratio of nutrients had a larger impact than total intake; and the results were gender-dependent.

Science Exposed—What Should the Minimum Recommended SPF Be to Avoid Sunburn?

“Science Exposed” is a new column aimed at digging into industry controversies to strip them down to the scientific facts. Here, sun protection expert Brian Diffey, PhD DSc, critiques the current SPF test method.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: All That is Good is Bad

We need to keep in mind that we may be able to maintain an appearance of youth and even measure the difference in a chemical marker in two people; but we need to avoid the Dorian Gray effect.

Is Cosmetic Science Really "Bad"? Part IV: How Scientific is Cosmetic Science?

Six questions from Michael Shermer’s Baloney Detection Kit have been discussed in this series. The results were not flattering for cosmetic science (read: cosmetic scientists) but cosmetic science did not score badly on all points. Questions seven and eight, described here, discriminate true science from borderland science and non-science or nonsense.

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Is ‘Anti-pollution’ Just a Ruse?

Remember "naturals?" Where did they lead us? In some cases, to benefit-infused natural products but in others, to greenwashing and chemical-free claims. Enter anti-pollution.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Less is More

The addition of extra ingredients in a formulation costs money, complicates manufacturing, impacts quality control and more. Here, we learn how less is more in product formulating.

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The Perplexing Topic of Hair 'Type': How Do We Classify Hair?

Most hair-related properties and issues can be rationalized by fiber size and shape, and/or the consequences of extreme conditions. However, the varying reactivity of different hair types with chemical treatments suggests potential differences in structure.

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Making Hair Loss History: Native Polyphenols to Kick-start Hair Regrowth

Research has shown the deregulation of two major hair follicle cell types are involved in androgenic alopecia: human fibroblast dermal papilla cells (HFDPc) and outer root sheath cells (ORSc). This article explores the effects of an active blend containing dihydroquercetin glucoside and epigallocatechin glucoside to stimulate ORSc and HFDPc, in turn reversing hair loss.

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