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43 Results
Type: Article
Section: Testing > Method/Process
Method/Process
Testing Tactics in Hair: Beyond Biology—Why African Hair is Fragile*
The remarkable shape of African hair can lead to a variety of issues for the wearer. High on this list is a marked propensity for breakage, and efforts to minimize this result in unique hair-related habits and practices. This article describes recent measurement advances that shed much needed light on the reasons for these issues.
Method/Process
How Damaged is Hair? Part II, Internal Damage
This article is part II in our series on hair damage. It explains the internal cortex structure of hair is not easily visible, and that various mechanical tests can yield different conclusions. Here, tests are described that can show changes to the internal cortex structure and their impact on hair’s mechanical properties.
Method/Process
How Damaged is Hair? Part III: Better Defining the Problem
By identifying elements at the heart of technical issues in hair, product developers will uncover options to consider for improving its health and appearance. Completing our three-part series, this final piece on hair damage provides insight on new ideas and strategies for problematic hair.
Method/Process
Is Cosmetic Science Really "Bad"? Part IV: How Scientific is Cosmetic Science?
Six questions from Michael Shermer’s Baloney Detection Kit have been discussed in this series. The results were not flattering for cosmetic science (read: cosmetic scientists) but cosmetic science did not score badly on all points. Questions seven and eight, described here, discriminate true science from borderland science and non-science or
nonsense
.
Sensory
The Perplexing Topic of Hair 'Type': How Do We Classify Hair?
Most hair-related properties and issues can be rationalized by fiber size and shape, and/or the consequences of extreme conditions. However, the varying reactivity of different hair types with chemical treatments suggests potential differences in structure.
Actives
Singlet Quenching Proves Faster is Better for Photostability
The faster a photostabilizer works, the fewer opportunities for destructive chemical reactions. Here, the author describes a new photostabilizer, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, which acts by quenching the singlet excited state of UV filters. The data shows how this material sets a new standard for the photostabilization of avobenzone, even in the presence of octyl methoxycinnamate.
Methods/Tools
LVMH Proves: Age Really is a State of Mind
During the IFSCC 2016 Congress, LVMH researcher Héloise Vergnaud presented her company's work on skin sagging and panelist reactions and emotional associations to it. Her results show how age really is a mindset.
Safety/Stability
Why the FDA's 'Sunscreens in the Bloodstream' Study is Flawed
A recent study published in the
Journal of the American Medical Association
tested the potential systemic absorption of certain sunscreens. Results identified their presence in subjects' bloodstreams; however, as industry expert David Steinberg explains, the study is misleading and fails to consider crucial variables.
Safety/Stability
When the Dust Settles: Keratinocyte Differentiation is the Anti-pollution Solution
This article describes in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo models to examine the effects of PM in skin, with particular interest in a botanical extract to mitigate the described effects. Urban pollution including particulate matter (PM) can affect the skin barrier by inducing numerous cell stresses.
Method/Process
Evaluating Shine on Hair
Marketing research studies have shown that shine is one of they key benefits that women expect from hair care products, particularly from shampoos and conditioners. This article defines shine in the context of hair care and discusses ways to measure it.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part I: Personnel, Facilities and Equipment
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part II will appear in our July 2018 edition.
SPF/Sun
[update] How ISO's Endorsement of Two Test Methods Will Enlighten Sunscreen Development
After 10 years, sunscreen developers are nearing the finish line for more ethical, cost efficient, reliable and faster testing thanks to ISO's endorsement of two standards. The final vote was in September 2024. Here, two experts explain what this means.
Efficacy
Quantifying Visual Aspects of Hair
Quantitive claims regarding hair care can be questioned if the results and approaches do not equate to real life occurrences. This article highlights ongoing research efforts that aim to improve our understanding of visual evaluations of hair.
Efficacy
Hair as a Test Substrate
Hair is a distinctly variable material, and the nature of this substrate can have a major impact on laboratory test results. This article discusses hair as a laboratory substrate to provide guidance on minimizing variability and creating optimal test conditions.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part II: Cultures, Growth Media, Reagents and Testing
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part 1 covered personnel, facilities and equipment, test materials and procedures, and documentation. Part 2 addresses microbial cultures and growth media, biochemical reagents, test procedures and more.
Efficacy
Measuring Hair Strength, Part II: Fiber Breakage
In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed
fatigue testing
, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.
Method/Process
Hair Ethnicity and Ellipticity: A Preliminary Study
Ethnic hair care addresses diverse fiber compositions that require unique products. This comprehensive review in hair fiber dimensions among straight, wavy and curly/coily hair serves as a basis from which product developers can design products to cater to unique hair type needs. The current study examines the ellipticity of Caucasian, Brazilian, Hispanic and African-American hair.
Method/Process
Hair Ethnicity and Ellipticity: A Preliminary Study
Ethnic hair care addresses diverse fiber compositions that require unique products. This comprehensive review in hair fiber dimensions among straight, wavy and curly/coily hair serves as a basis from which product developers can design products to cater to unique hair type needs. The current study examines the ellipticity of Caucasian, Brazilian, Hispanic and African-American hair.
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