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Section: Formulas/Products > Sun Care
Methods/Tools
Sun Protection and Early Detection
According to the 2014 American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS) Survey on Dermatologic Procedures, ASDS members performed an estimated 3.08 million skin cancer treatments last year.
Literature/Data
'Tunable' UV Absorption and Color
A new study published in
Science
could have product developers humming a new tune. In it, changes to a tyrosine-containing tripeptide acting as a melanin precursor were found capable of tuning melanin properties.
Companies
L’Oreal USA Names First-Ever Chief Retail Officer
Marc-Alexandre Risch slotted to lead global cosmetics retail division
Sun Protection
Comparatively Speaking: SPF and Calculated SPF
In order to prepare the industry for the upcoming Sunscreen Symposium, organized by the Florida chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, industry expert Tony O’Lenick asks Dennis Lott to explain the difference between SPF and calculated SPF. This is the first of two columns on sun protection.
Sun Care
Expert Opinions on Sunscreens and Moisturizers
Should we be lowering SPFs for better broad-spectrum efficacy? And of what relevance is the microbiome to skin hydration? These and other insights in sunscreens and moisturizers are covered in our all-new digital exclusive column, "Expert Opinions." Watch for new topics next month.
Actives
Extremolyte for Antiaging and After-sun
This extremolyte-based ingredient is said to protect, revitalize and rejuvenate human skin.
Sun Care
Sun Protection Conference Addresses the Future of Sun Care
The conference opened the summer season for sun care scientists, and the topics included SPF and UVA standard tests, new sunscreen actives, greater product efficacy and improved product textures.
Cleansing
Effects of Core-Corona Particles on Emulsification for Cosmetics
The functional limitations of surfactant emulsions led one Shiseido team to develop a "novel, ultimate emulsification system" to overcome those limitations. Read on to learn more about this system, which was presented at the IFSCC Congress in Orlando.
Sun Protection
UV Transmission Assessment: Influence of Temperature on Substrate Surface
This work evaluates the impact of temperature on test substrate surfaces during the application, spreading and drying steps of the in vitro method to measure ultraviolet (UV) transmission. The authors work in a range of temperatures, between 20°C to 35°C, and demonstrate that controlling temperature is a key parameter and should be strictly controlled to ensure reliability.
Sun Care
Polycrylene for Photostabilization and Water Resistance
HallStar has created a polyester that allows formulators to combine active ingredients that have previously been considered too photo-unstable to be effective.
Claims/Labeling
Nanoparticles in Sunscreens: Fact and Fiction
This paper reviews important issues regarding the classification for UV active ingredients and the need for a uniform classification and labeling system covering all nano ingredients. The definition of nanoparticles is not questioned here; however, the highly selective manner in which the definition is applied to different materials is.
Literature/Data
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part I, Characterization
Avobenzone is a widely used UV-absorbing organic filter. Its dynamic nature and photophysical and photochemical properties are responsible for its widespread use. This first in a two-part series reviews its inherent characteristics and behavior in solvents; part two will consider its behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas.
Sun Care
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part II, Application
Avobenzone is a widely used organic UV filter. Its dynamic nature and unique properties are responsible for its widespread use and forms. This second in a two-part series considers avobenzone’s behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas; part one reviewed its characteristics and behavior in solvents.
Literature/Data
Efficacy vs. Risk: A Contemporary Review of Sunscreen Filters
Being protected from sunlight would seem essential to preventing DNA damage that leads to skin cancers; however, the sunscreen filters used pose some risks of their own. This brief review highlights the safety vs. risk of sunscreen filters and approaches to improving their efficacy.
Actives
Photoprotection of TiO2 Using Propenoic Acid Esters
Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is known to be photocatalytically active. Even with surface modifications, it catalyzes the decomposition of organic materials and promotes the formation of reactive oxygen species. However, a particular propenoic acid ester is shown here to protect TiO2 from inducing such reactions, making it a more effective and safer UV filter.
Method/Process
Gattefossé Reveals Effects of Sunscreen, Moisturizer, Film Former Layering
Gattefossé analyzed the efficacy and sensory effects of sunscreens applied to skin on top of other products. Results suggest film formers are a key ingredient.
Efficacy
A Sunny Proposition: The Effects of Sun on Hair
While not nearly as well-documented as skin, plenty of literature indicates the sun can have damaging effects on hair.
Methods/Tools
Editor's Note: Discontinuity and Your Inner Innovator
One innovative mash-up has been capturing consumer dollars: multifunctional color cosmetics. Whether fortified with SPF or moisturizing properties, makeup with added benefits is driving color sales. In relation, this month, we've created our own color and sun mash-up.
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