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Actives
Futureproof Skin’s Longevity with the Next Generation of Peptides
To help brands meet new industry standards and take advantage of the widening market for well-aging solutions, dsm-firmenich has launched SYN®-COLL CB – a new, clean beauty version of its proven, collagen-boosting patented tripeptide.
Actives
Revolutionary Ingredients Transforming Anti-aging and Skin Health
This article explores the science and sustainability behind innovative cosmetic ingredients and how they address skin concerns like aging, oxidative stress and damage.
Specialized
Silicone Adhesives for Gentle, Effective and Customizable Transdermal Delivery Patches
Transdermal patches enable the controlled release of compounds such as topical actives and nutrients through the skin into the body. Silicone adhesive gels designed for such are tested here for their potential in cosmetics and topical pharma applications.
Natural/Sustainable
GAÏALINE®: A Regenerative Solution for Skin, Hair and Soils
GAÏALINE® is a liposoluble active ingredient from Expanscience Laboratories that combines high-performance cosmetic actives with sustainable innovation. Clinically proven to smooth and reduce visible signs of aging, it also helps protect the hair fiber.
Actives
How a Bio-optimized Collagen Peptide Masters Timeless Beauty
A hexapeptide was developed based on the human skin type I collagen sequence. Its activities on skin biomarkers, procollagen I and hyaluronic acid release and for dermal matrix protection and facial contouring benefits, were tested as described here.
Method/Process
Detecting the Protective Power of a Hair Health Multi-peptide: An Integrated Approach
This work measures the antioxidant potential of a hydrolyzed cicer seed extract, a multi-peptide derived from chickpeas, to protect hair. Advanced methods such as FTIR, DCFH-DA assays, cyclic fatigue and DSC testing are combined for a comprehensive view.
Actives
How Standardized Propolis Extraction Yields a Derm-grade Anti-inflammaging Active
Propolis' natural variability challenges consistent extraction, so an alternative non-alcoholic technology was designed to optimize and standardize this. The resulting derm-grade propolis was tested for anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and other benefits.
Consumers/Market
Hair and Scalp Care: Lipids, Algae Solutions, Self-esteem, Bond Building, Scalp Health, Personalized, Biotech Derived and More
Scientific advances continue to shape how we approach hair and scalp health. Innovative commercial products have captured the attention of the beauty consumer, driving the market trajectory ever higher. Here, industry experts discuss these dynamics.
Literature/Data
Unlocking Exosomes to Advance Skin Health and Beauty
Exosomes are critical cell communicators whose ability to advance skin care was only recently realized. Here, Ayesha Bshero, VP of creative/product development at Beekman 1802, provides expert insights on their benefits, challenges and future potential.
Anti-aging/Face
Back to the Roots – Targeting the Root Causes of Skin Aging
We explore the science of skin aging and the power of prevention. Featuring innovative active ingredients, the "Timeless Rituals" formulation concept combines fermentation technology with mindful self-care for healthy, resilient skin.
Consumers/Market
Keeping Cosmetics in Check: Makeup as a 'Weapon' to Fight Age Discrimination
In this Keeping Cosmetics in Check, Karl Laden, Ph.D., highlights age discrimination, suggesting makeup could fight it. He also dismisses the uphill battle to change perceptions on aging.
C&T
somewhat disagreed, so we dug deeper in a Q&A follow-up.
Skin Care
Why The Ordinary Launched its GF 15% Solution with a Side of Science
The Ordinary launched its GF 15% Solution in January in an unprecedented way: with a website dedicated to cosmetic research to break through knowledge barriers — and misconceptions such as growth factors warranting a higher price point. Here's why.
Consumers/Market
Formulating Demographic Beauty – From Boomers to Generation Alpha
This article is an overview of the unique characteristics, key focus and specific needs of given beauty consumer generations. It highlights biological variations as well as relevant ingredients, preferred product forms and select commercial examples.
Natural/Sustainable
Advanced Beauty Ingredients & Cutting Edge Claims
This round up is a report of the latest innovations set to reshape products in the years to come.
Actives
Bio-optimized Collagen Peptide for Ageless Beauty
CollPerfect™ P6 is an encapsulated bioactivating hexapeptide with a sequence based on the human skin type I collagen. It stimulates collagen synthesis and effectively rejuvenates the skin, improving skin's overall quality and appearance.
Anti-aging/Face
Microalgal Bio-retinoid: A Retinol Alternative to Gently Rewind Signs of Photoaging
This article compares the efficacy of a bio-retinoid from microalga with that of retinol and bakuchiol to reverse signs of photoaging in vitro. Its efficacy, safety and skin-soothing effects vs. retinol and bakuchiol are also explored in clinical trials.
Consumers/Market
Editor's Note: Reimagining Beauty
Reimagining beauty will be key to success for 2025 as consumers seek efficacy, precision solutions, sustainability, etc. This issue presents ideas to support this; from ultrafine bubbles and phage therapy, to aqueous propolis, barrier care and more.
Natural/Sustainable
Ultrafine Bubbles to Transform Water for the Sustainable Topical Delivery of Actives
This work examines the potential of water, treated via an ultrafine bubble technology, to deliver actives into skin. The penetration of niacinamide and carnosine (peptide) from a cosmetic formula is evaluated. Additional applications are proposed.
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