Exosomes are revolutionizing skin care, taking anti-aging, barrier repair and regeneration to new levels. While their adoption in formulations was once limited by cost and technical challenges, new innovations are making their benefits accessible. Here, Ayesha Bshero, vice president of creative and product development at Beekman 1802, provides expert insights on the science behind exosomes, their efficacy in skin care, formulation considerations and directions forward. She additionally describes Beekman's novel Rexosome goat milk exosomes as an example.
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Exosomes are revolutionizing skin care, taking anti-aging, barrier repair and regeneration to new levels. While their adoption in formulations was once limited by cost and technical challenges, new innovations are making their benefits accessible. Here, Ayesha Bshero, vice president of creative and product development at Beekman 1802, provides expert insights on the science behind exosomes, their efficacy in skin care, formulation considerations and directions forward. She additionally describes Beekman's novel Rexosome goat milk exosomes as an example.
What Sets Exosomes Apart from Other Skin Care Actives?
Exosomes are vesicles that carry bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids and nucleic acids. These components influence biological processes like collagen synthesis and oxidative stress reduction, making exosomes highly effective for anti-aging and skin generation.Image by KMPZZZ at Adobe Stock
Exosomes are extracellular nanovesicles (30-200 nm diameter) secreted by cells that act as essential communication mediators. Unlike stem cells, exosomes are not cells themselves, but rather vesicles that carry bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids and nucleic acids. These components influence biological processes like collagen synthesis and oxidative stress reduction, making exosomes highly effective for anti-aging and skin generation.
Their nano-size and natural origin allow them to penetrate deeply into skin to deliver bioactive molecules directly to target areas. This positions them as transformational agents for skin regeneration and repair. What's more, exosomes can originate from various cell types, including non-stem cells, and their function is independent of stem cell activity.
What has Limited the Application of Exosomes in Beauty?
Historically, the implementation of exosomes in cosmetics was restricted by two primary barriers — costs and technical challenges. Advanced extraction and stabilization technologies were necessary to isolate and purify exosomes while retaining their bioactivity, significantly driving up costs.
The complexity of maintaining exosome stability during formulation also presented challenges. Factors like temperature, oxidative stress and pH sensitivity required highly specialized encapsulation techniques, adding further layers of cost and production difficulty.
How has Beekman 1802 Leveraged Exosomes?
Goat milk exosomes are cost-effective due to the inherent abundance and stability of exosomes in milk, making them a scalable and practical source for cosmetic applications.Image by anatoliycherkas at Adobe Stock
Goat milk exosomes are cost-effective due to the inherent abundance and stability of exosomes in milk, making them a scalable and practical source for cosmetic applications. They are particularly rich in growth factors and signaling molecules that promote skin barrier repair and enhance resilience.
At Beekman 1802, we’ve developed Rexosome, a complex that combines goat milk exosomes with Reneseed polypeptide (INCI: Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-76). This synergistic formulation retains the bioactivity of the exosome within a proprietary matrix, delivering measurable skin care benefits such as improved skin density, reduced fine lines and enhanced barrier function — outcomes proven through clinical trials.
What Have Clinical Studies Revealed About Rexosome?
The efficacy of Rexosome was clinically validated in trials conducted for our Milk RX Cream. Results included:
- After eight weeks of product application, 91% of participants reported visibly lifted skin;
- Eighty-eight percent reported more resilient, youthful skin after eight weeks of treatment;
- TEWL measurements revealed a 16.63% reduction in water loss, indicating barrier repair; and
- Skin density improved by 9.34%, with significant reductions in fine lines and wrinkles.
Why Do You Think Exosomes are Gaining Popularity?
Exosomes offer dual functionality; they are biologically effective and align well with consumer demand for innovation paired with ethical sourcing. The sustainable nature of goat milk exosomes, combined with their proven benefits in stimulating collagen synthesis and reducing oxidative stress, addresses a range of consumer concerns.
What Are Key Formulation Considerations When Working With Exosomes?
Stability is a critical factor for exosomes. They are sensitive to:
- Temperature, as elevated heat can denature proteins;
- Oxidative stress, which degrades exosomal membranes; and
- pH fluctuations, requiring buffering agents to maintain stability.
To address these challenges, advanced encapsulation techniques like liposomes or nanocarriers are essential. Additionally, manufacturing conditions must avoid harsh processes like high-shear mixing to ensure vesicle integrity.
Effective preservation systems are also crucial to prevent microbial contamination without compromising bioactivity.
How Might You Envision Future Exosome-based Skin Care?
The future of exosome-based skin care lies in personalized solutions and multifunctional applications. Tailored formulations will allow individuals to address specific skin conditions with precision, while exosome technology’s potential to support wound healing and reduce inflammation unlocks secondary applications.
Additionally, as the exosome market matures, the establishment of standardized guidelines for safety and efficacy will drive market growth and innovation.
