As the demand for natural and effective skin care solutions grows, innovative ingredients are transforming the way consumers approach anti-aging and skin health. From Silab’s Longevicell, which harnesses the rejuvenating power of myrtle leaves to target cellular mechanisms for longevity, to Evolved By Nature’s Activated Silk KDF-β peptide, designed to combat modern environmental stressors, these advancements are setting new standards in skin care ingredients. This article explores the science and sustainability behind these and other innovative ingredients, offering a closer look at how they address concerns like aging, oxidative stress and damage.

Anti-Aging/Longevity

Longevicell Targets Sirtuins, Co-activators for Anti-aging, Longevity Efficacy

Silab delivers on consumer demand for natural and proven anti-aging products with Longevicell, an active ingredient that leverages the oligogalacturonans present in myrtle leaves. The ingredient reportedly targets sirtuins and their coactivators — NAD+ and AMPK — to support cellular longevity and promote youthful, radiant skin.

As Silab explains, sirtuins play a central role in promoting healthy cell functioning but their activity relies on the availability of NAD+ (essential for mitochondrial energy production) and AMPK (an energy sensor that protects cellular metabolism). Longevicell (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract) activates sirtuins 1, 3, 6 and 7, as well as NAD+ and AMPK, boosting mitochondrial activity and mitigating cellular aging processes like glycation and senescence. By acting on these key mechanisms, the ingredient reduces protein oxidation and increases cellular energy production at the epidermal level, enhancing skin’s complexion and radiance, according to Silab.

Internal studies show Longevicell enhances protein oxidation repair and increases cellular energy production in the epidermis while improving dermal matrix quality. These effects translate to visible skin benefits reportedly in as few as 14 days.

More specifically, in Caucasian and Asian skin, after 14 days of application, the ingredient noticeably improved:

• Smoothness (in body skin) and
• Radiance (in facial skin).

After 28 days, additional benefits emerged, including:

• Greater skin elasticity,
• Firmness and
• Reduced wrinkles.

Feedback from study participants also supported these findings, with 100% of Caucasian subjects reporting smoother and more radiant skin, and 95% identifying Longevicell as an effective anti-wrinkle treatment, Silab reports.

Longevicell is grounded in the history and sustainability of myrtle. The shrub has been treasured since antiquity for its rejuvenating properties, per Silab, and was traditionally used to prepare “angel’s water” for enhancing skin freshness.

Today, Silab sources myrtle leaves from certified organic suppliers in Morocco, ensuring quality and adhering to sustainability standards. The ingredient’s production is traceable, from harvest to finished ingredient, to comply with biodiversity and regulatory requirements.

Longevicell is 99.3% naturally derived or higher (per ISO 16128), and suitable for face and body formulations at 1% to 4%. It is available in an aqueous format, and is compliant with global cosmetic regulations.

Activated Silk KDF-β: A Regenerative Peptide to Address Today’s Skin Aggressors

Activated Silk KDF-b is a biotech innovation that boosts skin regeneration, hydration and barrier strength
while addressing modern environmental stressors like UV damage and oxidative stress. Image courtesy of Evolved by Nature.

Evolved By Nature’s Activated Silk KDF-β is a natural keratinocyte differentiation factor and bioactive peptide designed to boost the skin’s regeneration rate, thereby accelerating the cycling out of damaged cells. The result: rapid improvement in the appearance of skin damage and redness, as well as improved skin barrier integrity via a well-hydrated epidermal layer, per Evolved by Nature.

Environmental factors like UV rays, climate change and pollution have increased free radicals that cause oxidative stress on the skin. Over the years, UV levels have risen in some areas by up to 6%, per Evolved by Nature, contributing to skin damage and UV-related cancers. Addressing this requires solutions that not only improve skin health visibly, but also support the removal of damaged cells to prevent long-term effects.

Activated Silk KDF-β is designed to address skin damage, hyperpigmentation and accelerated aging associated with heightened UV exposure and oxidative stressors that, according to the company, can overwhelm conventional skin care solutions like hyaluronic acid, retinol and vitamin C.

Substantiated claims: Activated Silk KDF-β can support claims aimed at improving skin dullness, uneven complexion, hyperpigmentation, discoloration, accelerated signs of aging, inflammation and atopic skin issues. Notably, Activated Silk KDF-β is also safe for sensitive skin, suitable for daily use and sun exposure, and can be incorporated into most formulations.

The active additionally is reported to improve the appearance of symptoms associated with eczema and is said to aid keratinocytes in their journey from the epidermis’ deepest layer, the stratum basale, to the surface layer, the stratum corneum. Along the way, these cells replace older, damaged ones, creating a refreshed and strengthened skin barrier.

What's more, the technology boosts the production of skin proteins like involucrin for elasticity, filaggrin for hydration, and claudin for a strong skin barrier.

Biotech derived: Activated Silk KDF-β is a natural, biotech-designed ingredient made from upcycled silk protein, water and salts. Its production avoids undesired chemicals and supports eight UN sustainable development goals, per the company.

Modern skin defense: “Traditional skin care ingredients like hyaluronic acid, retinol and vitamin C were developed decades ago, making them an outdated defense to modern aggressors,” says Brian Freedman, regional director of North America, natural ingredients, at Evolved By Nature. “Adverse environmental conditions have increased over the past decades and reliable skin care hasn’t kept pace. That’s why we’re thrilled to offer a new solution to skin care innovators.

"Activated Silk KDF- is the only ingredient designed for this modern challenge. It’s an innovative solution that delivers real, targeted protection and renewal for today’s skin care challenges.”

Hyaluronic Acid and Face Serums Lead the Way in Beauty

According to recent insights from Daash Intelligence^a, hyaluronic acid is the leading active ingredient in the beauty industry, holding 12% of the market share. This powerhouse is followed by vitamin C, niacinamide and peptides that together account for 17% of the ingredient market share. Among product formats, face serums and moisturizers are surging in popularity, now representing nearly 11% of the total unit share in the market, with a notable average price of $61.50.

Face serums, in particular, have surpassed foundations to become the top product format, reflecting a shift toward skin care-focused routines. Within the face serum category, vitamin C holds a significant 20% market share, while niacinamide and hyaluronic acid lead with 29%. These trends highlight the growing consumer demand for active, targeted skin care ingredients and products designed to deliver results.

Daash Intelligence attributes this growth to evolving consumer preferences for effective, science-backed formulations. The rise of face serums aligns with the broader trend of consumers prioritizing skin care over traditional makeup, favoring products that improve skin health and appearance.

Noxifense: An Upcycled Bioactive for Fighting Oxi-inflammation

French cosmetic supplier Gattefossé has expanded its upcycling initiatives as part of its CSR strategy, Gatt’Up&Act. The company is focused on repurposing wasted materials to create high-quality, sustainable bioactives.

In the last two years, Gattefossé has developed two bioactive ingredients, Eyeglorius and Noxifense, from underutilized sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) leaves. These leaves, sourced from a family-owned organic orchard in Quebec, Canada, are collected during the annual September pruning of sea buckthorn trees, which also produce berries for food products.

Eyeglorius, launched in 2024, is a liposoluble anti-fatigue active obtained through supercritical CO₂ extraction. The soon-to-be-released Noxifense focuses on skin sensitivity care, utilizing specific flavonoids for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. It is said to target oxi-inflammation, a process linked to oxidative stress and inflammation.

This initiative aligns with Gattefossé’s commitment to waste recovery and sustainable product development, supporting the company’s broader environmental and CSR goals.

Natural and Biodegradable JD Beads Exfoliant

JD Beads from Jojoba Desert are an environmentally conscious exfoliant made from 100% natural jojoba esters. Designed to combine performance with sustainability, they meet the growing demand for eco-friendly beauty products.

Derived from premium JD Jojoba Oil, JD Beads are odorless, white and reportedly can be used without altering the sensory experience of the formulation. Described as smooth and spherical, they offer gentle yet effective exfoliation, making them ideally suited for facial cleansers and body scrubs, even for sensitive skin. Indeed, according to the company, their smooth shape, unlike some traditional scrubs, minimizes the risk of microtears.

Biodegradable microplastic alternative: Free from microplastics, JD Beads are inherently biodegradable as well, providing a natural alternative to synthetic polyethylene microbeads and ensuring a cleaner, greener solution for personal care products.

They also meet current regulatory standards and address consumer interest in sustainable products.

JD Beads are available in various mesh sizes, allowing formulators to adapt the exfoliation level for different products; from gentle facial scrubs to more intensive body exfoliants. Beyond exfoliation, JD Beads contain jojoba esters, which help to hydrate and soften the skin, contributing to a more favorable application experience, per the company.

Color Cosmetic Innovations

Metal-free Ronaflux Metallic Pigments

EMD Electronics, the North American pigments division of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany, launched Ronaflux metal-free, high-performance metallic cosmetic pigments. The pigments are said to act as a chroma intensifier without diluting color saturation. Their striking color effects reportedly cannot be recreated by blending other pigments, which can make them difficult to replicate by competing brands.

In addition to standout, bold looks, Ronaflux’s universally true colors perform well in everyday makeup and neutral looks. The pigments can also be used without restriction in applications such as lip and personal care products, in which they remain stable and will not fade over time. Per the company, Ronaflux pigments are also easy to process and do not require milling or dispersions to develop colors.

“Our new Ronaflux pigments are completely unlike any other type of pigment in the personal care market,” says Mike Blazejowski, vice president of the Americas for the company. “They are made differently, they behave differently, and they provide dramatic effects that can’t be found anywhere else. They are the biggest innovation in pigment technology in 20 years.”

“One thing that I really appreciate as a formulator is that the Ronaflux pigments help the creation of striking color effects consistently over different skin tones, making it a universal color for all,” says Qinyun Peng, the company's head of application technology for the Americas. “This translates into saving time and money because the effects are so consistent.”

Sensient's White Biotech Acquisition to Expand Active Color Offerings

Sensient Technologies Corp., a global supplier for color and personal care applications, recently acquired Biolie, a French manufacturer specializing in white biotechnology and natural ingredient extraction. The acquisition, completed on Feb. 14, 2025, aims to strengthen Sensient’s active color portfolio and manufacturing capabilities.

News of the acquisition follows Biolie’s successful product launches showcased at Cosmet’Agora in January 2025, including two cosmetic innovations.

Paradisyl (INCI: Water (Aqua), Propanediol (and) Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract) is a pomelo extract developed through Biolie’s eco-friendly enzymatic process. It functions as a natural SPF booster, demonstrated to elevate SPF 20 formulations by 30% with just 2% usage.

Alongside its SPF-boosting properties, Paradisyl is said to exhibit powerful anti-inflammatory and anti-aging capabilities, reducing redness by 50% within one application day and preserving collagen through collagenase inhibition.

Suggested applications include:

• Sunscreen,
• Anti-fatigue facial care and
• Soothing after-sun lotions.

Garnet Red (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (and) Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract) is a natural red-colored oil derived from alkanet root in sunflower seed oil. Boasting an ORAC score equivalent to 1,777 μmol of trolox per 100 g, it reportedly delivers potent antioxidant properties.

The ingredient is said to help prevent skin aging and wrinkles by inhibiting elastase activity, maintaining elastin’s functionality in the skin.

It is suitable for use in:

• Hydrating skin care,
• Anti-aging serums and
• Cosmetic formulations requiring natural pigmentation.

The integration of Biolie’s technologies reportedly strengthens Sensient’s commitment to natural, eco-conscious innovation. Together, the two companies aim to redefine standards in active colors and sustainable personal care solutions, providing formulators with powerful tools to meet consumer demands.

Animal-Free Carmine

Debut has created biotech-derived carmine, a vibrant red pigment widely used in cosmetics. Image courtesy of Debut.

Debut has created biotech-derived carmine, a vibrant red pigment widely used in cosmetics. Unlike traditional carmine, which is harvested from crushed cochineal beetles, or synthetic alternatives that can lack the same vibrancy and performance, Debut’s innovation is said to offer a precise molecular replica. Created through biomanufacturing, the animal-free carmine will soon be available for the beauty industry, with expansion into food and beverage on the horizon.

Challenging nature of carmine: Carmine is reportedly notoriously difficult to replicate due to its unique color vibrancy and stability. Many synthetic or vegan substitutes fail to match its performance, leaving the beauty industry reliant on beetle-derived carmine, which raises ethical, health and environmental concerns.

Debut’s carmine eliminates the need for insect harvesting — requiring an estimated 70,000 beetles to produce just one pound — and is 95% pure, compared to the industry standard of 30%. It is also free from proteins that can cause skin irritation, offering a safer, more sustainable option.

Hair and Scalp Care

Sphingo’Hair Drypure Ceramide NP to 'Cement' Hair and Scalp

Croda Beauty has introduced Sphingo’Hair Drypure, a bio-fermentation-derived ceramide designed to support both scalp and hair barrier structures. The ingredient is composed of long-chain fatty acid ceramide NP, which plays a critical role in maintaining the structural “cement” of the scalp and hair, the company reports.

The scalp and hair reportedly share interdependent barrier structures that act as defense mechanisms against external aggressors, including physical, microbial and chemical stressors. According to Croda Beauty, Sphingo’Hair Drypure (INCI: Not Provided) reinforces the scalp’s barrier function, improves hydration, reduces scaling and soothes inflammation. For hair, the ingredient enhances moisture balance, smooths the cuticle, increases shine and improves manageability.

According to the company, studies of Sphingo’Hair Drypure demonstrated benefits including:

• Strengthening the scalp’s barrier function,
• Increasing scalp hydration and reducing flaking,
• Improving hair fiber moisture balance,
• Enhancing cuticle smoothness, shine and ease of combing, and
• Being a 100% natural ingredient, meeting ISO 16128 standards. It is also approved by COSMOS and compliant with IECIC standards, making it suitable for clean beauty formulations.

Crodabond CSN Seals Split Ends at Low Use Levels

Croda Beauty also announced new findings on the performance of its natural hair repair ingredient Crodabond CSN. This solution, made from 100% naturally derived materials, has demonstrated effective split-end repair at a reduced concentration of just 1%.

Crodabond CSN (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) gained industry recognition for its ability to seal split ends, enhance smoothness and improve shine. Recent studies reveal that using only 1% Crodabond CSN achieves an ideal balance between effective hair repair and a natural sensory feel, making it a standout choice for hair care formulations.

Key benefits of Crodabond CSN reportedly include:

• Effective split-end repair: Proven to seal split ends, even after multiple washes.
• Natural and sustainable: 100% naturally derived, biodegradable, vegan-suitable and halal-approved.
• Versatile performance: Works across various hair types (European and Asian) with consistent results.
• Clean beauty credentials: Free from phenoxyethanol, non-GMO and IECIC listed.

Croda’s SEM studies also confirmed the ingredient’s superior wash-out resistance compared to synthetic competitors, per the company, cementing its position as a natural and effective alternative for hair care brands. The product offers a long-lasting, natural solution for brands looking to meet consumer demand for high-performance, sustainable hair repair products.

Kerazyne MB Polyesteramine for Multiple Conditioning Mechanisms

Kerazyne MB, developed by Inolex, is described as an advanced multifunctional conditioning polymer for various personal care applications. With innovative mechanisms and an enhanced sustainability profile, it is reportedly designed to offer a versatile alternative to conventional conditioning agents in hair and skin care formulations.

Kerazyne MB is a polyesteramine that, per Inolex, provides hair conditioning through multiple mechanisms. Non-quat cationic sites are attracted to anionically charged hair fibers; ester linkages provide secondary attractive forces to hair fibers; and an alkyl group provides a protective, conditioning layer once bound to hair.

Per the company, the combined effects result in the emolliency and gloss characteristics of an ester and adhesion properties comparable to traditional amines.

Inolex adds that in cleansing applications, polyesteramines interact with surfactant molecules and reduce the interaction of individual surfactant molecules with the skin’s lipid bilayers. The result is a reduction in skin irritation during cleansing.

Kerazyne MB (INCI: Polyester-11) offers a range of functional and formulation advantages suitable for professional-grade cleansers, scalp care and conditioning formulations. These include:

• Enhanced formula mildness: Minimizing surfactant skin penetration without reducing cleansing effectiveness or foam performance, ensuring a milder formulation.
• Static control and conditioning: Effectively reducing static charge in hair care, offering smooth and manageable strands.
• Sustainable profile: Providing an alternative to traditional polyquaternium and amodimethicone chemistries, meeting eco-conscious formulation needs.
• Micellar thickening: Delivering excellent thickening properties and enhancing product consistency, while also creating a clean rinse with soft, silky feel.
• Cold processing: Offering formulators a pourable liquid suitable for cold processing and clear formulations, simplifying manufacturing.

Kerazyne MB is readily biodegradable, halal certified, RSPO mass balance certified, and clean beauty preferred. It is also China IECIC listed, vegan and cruelty free, and kosher compliant. Recommended at use levels of 0.5-2.0%, the ingredient is added to the oil phase or premix with amphoteric surfactant, then added into the surfactant system with mixing; a pH < 6.5 is required.

Kerazyne MB is designed to perform across multiple personal care categories, including:

• Hair care products such as conditioners, treatments and styling solutions;
• Cleansers for body and scalp; and
• Skin care and body care formulas.

Sun Protection Breakthrough

ImerCare SunTouch Perlite-based Sensory Agent

ImerCare SunTouch not only addresses the demand for eco-friendly solutions, but also enables the formulation
of comfortable sunscreens suitable for daily use. Image courtesy of Imerys.

Imerys unveiled ImerCare SunTouch, a perlite-based sensory agent designed to meet the growing demand for sustainable and effective SPF cosmetics. This COSMOS-approved solution offers a natural alternative to synthetic sensory agents, delivering a velvety, matte finish while maintaining SPF efficacy.

ImerCare SunTouch (INCI: Not Provided) not only addresses the demand for eco-friendly solutions, but also enables the formulation of comfortable sunscreens suitable for daily use. With its reported dry touch feel and a natural matte finish, it offers an alternative to silica and nylon.

Additional features include:

• Natural matte finish: The structure of perlite imparts a non-greasy, non-sticky feel, leaving a soft, powdery texture with a matte appearance on the skin, per Imerys.
• Enhanced sunscreen absorption: The high absorption capability of ImerCare SunTouch is said to promote effective skin penetration, crucial for maintaining SPF performance without compromising sensory experience.
• Wide compatibility: The ingredient is compatible in various SPF cosmetic formulations, including emulsions, oils, gels and sticks, making it highly versatile across product types.

To evaluate its performance, ImerCare SunTouch was tested at 5% in a formulation and compared with a formula containing 5% silica. Parameters for spreading, powdery touch, matte effects, dry touch and penetration were rated by panelists. Results indicated that ImerCare SunTouch performed equally if not better than silica, without compromising the texture or aroma of the product, per Imerys.

What’s more, the ingredient’s impact on SPF efficacy was assessed through in vivo studies. According to the company, findings confirmed it does not significantly affect sunscreen performance, ensuring effective protection.

By replacing synthetic sensory agents with ingredients such as this COSMOS-approved, perlite-based alternative, cosmetic formulators can meet modern consumer demands for comfort, efficacy and environmental responsibility in everyday sunscreen formulations.

Post-Procedure Skin Care Innovations

Argireline Amplified Anti-aging Peptide

Lubrizol’s Argireline Amplified Peptide, when applied in combination with Botulinum toxin type-A injections like Botox, is said to keep wrinkles at bay for nearly eight weeks longer than the injections alone. This research aligns with consumer demands for effective, longer-lasting dermo-aesthetic solutions, allowing them to make fewer trips to the clinic.

This enhancement and prolonging effect of the ingredient are in line with the rising medicalization of beauty. They also offer further evidence of the peptide beauty revolution.

Argireline Amplified Peptide (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (and) Sodium Benzoate), which is produced in accordance to green chemistry principles, has displayed “superior” in vitro activity and muscle relaxation effects compared to the company’s original Argireline peptide, which was initially used as a non-invasive solution to reduce facial muscle activity.

In a recent study of 45 Caucasian volunteers, both men and women, ages 35 to 60, participants received 50 units of Botulinum toxin type A (BTA) injections targeting crow’s feet, frown lines, and forehead wrinkles. In addition, they applied either a cream containing a 5% Argireline Amplified peptide solution or a placebo cream to their entire face twice daily over a period of four months.

Researchers employed both 2D and 3D facial imaging techniques to assess changes in wrinkle visibility, skin texture and wrinkle length across key areas such as crow’s feet, frown lines and the forehead.

Findings revealed that after 1, 3 and 4 months, participants who received the active peptide combination treatment showed a significant reduction in wrinkles compared with those treated with BTA and a placebo. Notably, this combination treatment extended the wrinkle-free period by nearly eight weeks longer than BTA alone.

Macrocystis Pyrifera Ferment for Post-procedure
Skin Barrier Recovery

Finally, La Mer and The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) published research in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology highlighting the efficacy of La Mer’s Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing serum (MPF serum) in strengthening the skin barrier and accelerating recovery following dermatological procedures. Per the company, this marks an important advancement in post-procedure skin care, offering a new standard of care for patients undergoing treatments such as chemical peels and laser therapy.

The research — conducted by Uma Santhanam, Ph.D., and Claude Saliou, PharmD, from ELC’s clinical sciences team; and Jaime Emmetsberger, Ph.D., from La Mer’s Max Huber Research Labs, in collaboration with esteemed dermatologists and external researchers — evaluated the impact of MPF-Serum on skin barrier function.

Across multiple clinical trials involving women ages 31 to 65, the MPF-Serum showed a significant improvement in moisturization and skin barrier integrity over an eight-week period. The product was also tested in controlled dermatological procedures, including 70% glycolic acid peels and non-ablative laser treatments, where it demonstrated superior post-procedure recovery compared with standard moisturizers.

These findings suggest MPF-Serum could serve as both a preparatory product for procedures and a more effective alternative to traditional ointments during recovery.

“Our research indicates that MPF-Serum provides tangible benefits for patients recovering from dermatological treatments, setting a new benchmark for post-procedure skin care,” said Saliou. “This innovation underscores the potential for science-led solutions in the beauty industry.”

As beauty and skin care continue to intersect with advanced scientific research, studies like these reinforce the industry’s potential to deliver products that not only enhance aesthetics, but also improve skin health and recovery. The findings from La Mer and ELC’s study promise to shape the future of post-procedure skin care and further elevate the role of science in beauty innovation.

Silab's Longevicell, an anti-aging ingredient from myrtle leaves, reportedly enhances skin smoothness, radiance, elasticity and firmness in as little as 14 days; it is sustainably sourced and 99.3% naturally derived.

Activated Silk KDF-β is a biotech innovation that boosts skin regeneration, hydration and barrier strength while addressing modern environmental stressors like UV damage and oxidative stress.

^a https://www.daash.co/