Next-level sustainable ingredients and production capabilities are boosting the eco-ethical profile of the beauty industry while fostering enhanced claims for product innovation across categories such as skin and hair care, and color cosmetics. Here, we round up the latest innovations set to reshape products in the years to come.
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Next-level sustainable ingredients and production capabilities are boosting the eco-ethical profile of the beauty industry while fostering enhanced claims for product innovation across categories such as skin and hair care, and color cosmetics. Here, we round up the latest innovations set to reshape products in the years to come.
Bringing Bio-based Ingredient Manufacturing In-house
The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) has opened its BioTech Hub focused “exclusively on manufacturing cutting-edge bio-based raw materials,” per the company. The site supports the company’s broader pivot away from a reliance on biomass and natural resources, while ensuring business continuity.
Based near its campus in Oevel, Belgium, the site (led by Caroline Paulussen, Ph.D.) will manufacture active biomolecules from plant, yeast and bacteria sources to be applied in ELC skin care products across a range of brands.
In this way, the company seeks to boost the sustainability of its products, pivoting toward bio-based alternatives to traditional ingredients.
Commercial production will begin in 2025 and will allow ELC to boost its in-house production of bio-based raw materials.
The Belgium-based team will work with ELC researchers in Melville, New York to optimize fermentation and bio-based materials. Raw materials resulting from the project will be piloted and scaled up in cooperation with manufacturing teams in Belgium.
“Our prestige beauty products depend on the highest quality raw materials,” says Roberto Canevari, executive vice president, global supply chain, ELC. “By producing our own biotechnology-based materials at one of our main manufacturing campuses, we are able to manufacture at-scale in a more responsible way. This is a great example of how our end-to-end value chain is partnering to advance innovation and sustainability across the enterprise.”
“Our BioTech Hub will support our efforts to provide more responsible and cutting-edge beauty solutions to consumers,” says Jamal Chamariq, senior vice president, EMEA UK&I and travel retail, global supply chain, ELC. “The location of the new center in Belgium also will enable us to partner more closely with leaders in biotechnology, further enhancing our innovation ecosystem in Europe and beyond.”
Exosomes Deliver Anti-aging for the Face and Breasts
Mibelle Biochemistry is tapping into the exosome skin care boom with its dual-action plant-stem-cell-derived PhytoCellTec Exosomes.
The technology delivers exosomes to the epidermis and dermis topically while also stimulating the production of exosomes by mesenchymal stem cells within the skin itself.
The PhytoCellTec Exosomes (INCI: Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua/Water) support intercellular communication to improve the skin barrier (for better moisture retention and defense) and collagen production, and to rejuvenate the skin (for greater density and elasticity) via interactions with fibroblasts, thereby counteracting age- and external-aggressor-triggered skin issues such as pollution and UV radiation.
The result is a reduced appearance of wrinkles and the reshaping of contours of the face and breasts.
In our 2025 beauty trend preview, Mibelle Biochemistry’s Christine Meier noted, “[Exosomal beauty is] a big hot topic now, and I expect more launches and innovations in this exciting field next year, may it be ingredients or finished goods. As it often happens with cosmetic trends, they come from the medical/salon side before they enter skin care and the mass market; same with exosomes.”
Meier added, “I think this trend will be important, because these small cell vesicles play a crucial role in cell communication and regeneration. With products boosting the right exosomes, our skin cells will be stimulated to produce more exosomes with collagen stimulating messenger molecules. This leads to an increased production of collagen and elastin in the fibroblasts, which results in a rejuvenated appearance. In my opinion, the scientific edge and the medical origin make [exosomes] a promising trend for the future.”
Fast-track Anti-aging Ingredient Discovery with AI
LVMH Recherche and LVMH’s beauty R&D group is leveraging California-based Integrated Biosciences’ AI and synthetic biology capabilities to fast-track the discovery of anti-aging skin care technologies. Financial terms of the partnership were not disclosed.
Integrated Biosciences pairs AI with optogenetics, the latter of which allows the company’s researchers to control and monitor the biological function of individual cells, groups of cells, tissues and organs.
Combined, the company’s deep learning models can “virtually screen hundreds of thousands of molecules” to identify chemical compounds with the most promise for modulating age-related biological phenotypes.
The company has already made a name for itself by using AI to identify novel senolytic compounds that clear out senescent cells.
“Our partnership with Integrated Biosciences perfectly embodies our vision: to expand the frontiers of scientific discovery, fueling transformative innovations in beauty,” said Bruno Bavouzet, president of LVMH Recherche. “This represents a unique opportunity to evaluate thousands of potential bioactives concurrently, revolutionizing the pace of our research for the benefit of all our brands, among them our flagship – Maison Parfums Christian Dior. By combining our skin research expertise with their AI and aging research, we are taking a decisive step in understanding and molecularly addressing age-related cellular pathways.”
‘Preservative-free,’ Anti-inflammasome Skin Care
Beauty innovators continually face increasing restrictions on the preservative systems used in formulations. As such, Rahn Cosmetic Actives introduced a version of its renowned post-biotic active, Defensil-Pure Eco, that features pentylene glycol as a “mild, non-listed preservative.” What’s more, the ingredient has been shown to counteract the activation of the skin’s inflammasome, and to “regenerate the skin immediately after just one application.”
Millet ferment, barrier strengthener: Rahn’s Defensil Pure-Eco (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Panicum Miliaceum (Millet) Seed Extract (and) Lactobacillus Ferment) is a water-based, fermented millet extract. Designed for especially dry skin, it reportedly hydrates and strengthens the skin barrier immediately after application.
According to the company, dry and atopic skin suffers regularly from physical damage and a weakened barrier. This makes the skin vulnerable to bacteria entering the deeper layers, which can cause adverse inflammatory reactions by activating the inflammasome.
Clinical studies have shown that Defensil-Pure Eco can protect dry and atopic skin against further damage by quickly regenerating skin and “resealing” the barrier, per Rahn.
Pre/postbiotic to inhibit inflammasome activation: Also, per the company, in vitro, Defensil-Pure Eco serves as a prebiotic, promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria on skin to displace undesirable microorganisms.
Its postbiotic output is additionally reported to effectively inhibit the activation of the inflammasome. Indeed, an analysis of the fermented millet extract reportedly showed that fermentation results in a greater release of important minerals, compared with standard millet extract.
Scientifically backed beauty claims: Taken together, Defensil-Pure Eco has been scientifically substantiated, at 0.5-3.0%, to back claims such as:
- • Immediately regenerates skin after a single application.
- • Increases skin hydration by 142%.
- • Strengthens the skin barrier by 79%.
- • Improves the appearance of atopic skin.
- • Promotes a healthy skin microbiota.
- • Reduces inflammatory reactions.
Dimethicone-like Plant-derived Oil
Seiwa Kasei Co.’s Vistanol GDHR-Pure (INCI: Glyceryl Diisostearate/Hydrogenated Rosinate) is a 100% plant-derived oil. According to the company, it is highly stable against oxidation, has a low viscosity and excellent spreadability, and demonstrates good adherence to skin. In addition, it is compatible with silicone oil and imparts minimal color and odor.
Benefits in skin, hair and makeup: Per the company, benefits in skin, hair and makeup include:
- Imparting lanolin-like gloss and emollience,
- Imparting dimethicone-like texture at low use levels,
- Improving hair smoothness and shine, and
- Delivering a moisturizing texture to hair, among others.
Emulsifier Selector Tool with Texture-first Focus
Sharon Personal Care’s Emulsifier Selector tool puts sensorial texture first in the formulator’s path to help them identify the ideal emulsifier for given formulations.Image by Praiwan Wasanruk
Sharon Personal Care has developed a novel Emulsifier Selector tool that puts sensorial texture first in the formulator’s path to identifying the ideal emulsifier for given formulations. The tool was presented during the SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase.
As the company explained, the emulsifier is the dominant ingredient that determines the sensory profile of emulsions, especially in terms of appearance, pick-up and rub-out. Therefore, to make the selection process easier, and to save time and cost, the Sharon Emulsifier Selector tool takes a top-down approach to guide the formulator along the way.
Simple 1, 2, 3 emulsifier selection: The streamlined selection process comprises:
- Choosing the sensorial texture desired, which narrows the emulsifier options from a comprehensive palette of 15 unique bases with various sensory experiences to just 3-5.
- Reviewing these 3-5 textures to identify the top 1 or 2 choices.
- And receiving recommendations for the emulsifiers that align with these top choices to create the desired textures.
- From there, the formulator uses the chosen emulsifier, fine tuning the formula to meet the product brief.
Selecting desired aesthetics: Key to the Sharon Emulsifier Selector are the desired product aesthetics and forms. For example, one might choose a cream, lotion or serum, with fast absorption, a rich texture, etc.
The company adds that the chosen emulsifiers are offered with a range of specs and strengths, which are important formulating considerations.
Synthesized, Cruelty-free Snail Mucin Could Be Coming
Snail mucin or slime has been the beauty industry’s star for several years, thanks to its known hydrating, plumping and skin-smoothing benefits, among others. In 2018, the market for snail beauty products was projected to grow at a CAGR of 10.82% between 2017 and 2025. In February 2024, Spate reported snail mucin was one of the top two skin care trends, growing more than 300% year-over-year. Notably, the material has also been used as a strong biomedical adhesive, to heal wounds, and even to assist anti-cancer treatments.1
Toward cruelty-free snail mucin: However, creating this material can stress the animals even when reputable producers use practices to minimize their discomfort. This is one reason why Marie Wei, a senior in molecular biology at Johns Hopkins’ Krieger School, and Cecelia Zhang, a biomedical engineering senior at the Whiting School, aim to synthetically produce what they consider the key protein in snail mucus, epiphragmin, according to a university report.2
Underlying structure, mechanisms of snail mucin? The duo has been working on their “AminoArtisans” project since 2022, with initial funding through the AgaraBio community lab and a grant from the Whiting School of Engineering’s Student Initiatives Fund. “Researchers have been putting raw mucus into cancer cells and seeing them metastasize slower,” Wei said in the report, “but they’ve never actually understood what’s happening on a molecular level.”
Per Wei, there is little research to explain why snail mucin works. A recent paper, “Snail mucus: Unlocking a natural powerhouse for dermatological innovation,”3 published in December 2024, could elucidate answers, although no abstract was readily available to provide details.
A paper in December 20214 described a study in which human NHDF fibroblast cells were exposed to snail slime at two different concentrations, and the biological activity of the cells was assessed via mitochondrial redox. Analysis of the mucus sample was also carried out using infrared spectroscopy.
The authors found:
- The snail mucin contained mucin, achacin, mitomycin and allantoin, among other compounds.
- And the snail mucin positively affected the viability of fibroblasts, although the mechanisms for such were not clear.
Discovering these underlying mechanisms is one aspiration of Wei’s and Zhang’s research.
Streamlining production for beauty and more: According to Johns Hopkins, once Wei and Zhang understand the molecular mechanisms, the researchers hope to engineer epiphragmin through a synthetic process, which will streamline its production.
Then, they expect to make it available to skin care manufacturers and for medical drug research. They also plan to engineer it to be a stronger, more useful substance; e.g., enhancing certain features through protein mutagenesis or gene mutation to make it more adhesive, or to target specific cancer cells.
Water-soluble HPR Vitamin A/Retinol Derivative
Soho Aneco Chemicals Co., Ltd., recently developed a water soluble hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) using co-solvency. Known as AC-HPR-W2 SACOS, the ingredient launched at in-cosmetics Asia in November 2024.
The new ingredient comes after the company’s 2019 introductions of AC-HPR (a powder with high purity, up to 99%) and AC-HPR-S10 (a 10% oil soluble HPR). Per the company, HPR is a new-generation, direct-acting retinol and one of the most bioavailable forms of vitamin A — for which the company was granted an invention patent.
Stabler, milder, water soluble HPR: HPR (INCI: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) is synthesized from retinoic acid and small molecule pinacol. According to the company, it is milder and more stable than other forms of vitamin A. The latest edition, AC-HPR-W2 SACOS, is a 2% water soluble HPR said to “solve the application problem of HPR in aqueous systems.”
“We use two or more mixed solvents to improve the solubility of some insoluble ingredients,” the company explained. “When each solvent in the mixed solution reaches a certain proportion, the solubility of the ingredient will reach a maximum. [This] can improve the solubility and bioavailability of HPR.”
According to the company, HPR has been expanding in market share for anti-aging applications and is “likely to replace [the] vitamin A that is widely used.”
Clinical safety, stability of HPR: Data from a series of clinical studies is said to support the efficacy of Soho Aneco’s HPR. Safety and stability testing were also carried out.
Results indicated the HPR was:
- Non-irritating,
- Of high purity,
- Showed enhanced activity, and
- Its low molecular weight was easily absorbed.
Eco-conscious, Plastic-free Textile Pigments for Cosmetics
Vividye’s innovative pigments offer vibrant color without the environmental impact.Anneleven at Adobe Stock
Vividye, a Swedish deep-tech startup, is adapting its environmentally friendly textile dyes to cosmetics. According to the company, unlike traditional dyes, whose small molecules penetrate materials, Vividye’s functionalized pigments are larger particles designed to adhere to surfaces without dissolving in water.
“Traditionally, modifying the characteristics of pigments has involved coating them in polymer films, essentially plastics,” the company website explains. “Our technology eliminates the need for plastics, resulting in a completely plastic-free solution.”
Per the company, the heart of its technology lies in a fusion of “groundbreaking” surface chemistry and precision engineering. “We specialize in meticulously modifying pigment properties, tailoring them to meet specific application needs. This involves enhancing characteristics such as color intensity, durability and versatility, revolutionizing the way pigments are utilized,” the company website states.
Safer, more sustainable pigments: Per Vividye, the pigments’ larger size makes them:
- • Safer, so as not to penetrate skin and hair; and
- • Easier to filter from water, reducing potential health and environmental risks.
The technology is also adaptable, offering a way to create vibrant and long-lasting colors across applications such as hair coloring, makeup and lipstick.
Furthermore, unlike conventional pigments derived from rare minerals or fossil-based and synthetic (posing sustainability and ethical issues), Vividye’s technology uses “abundant, non-fossil-based materials that are readily available and do not require extracting pigments from conflict zones.”
Tech transfer from textiles to cosmetics: Since its founding in 2020, Vividye has focused on developing coloring methods that minimize harm to people and the planet. Initially focusing on textiles, the company has gained recognition for its innovations, including receiving the H&M & Elle Conscious Award.
“Moving into cosmetics felt like a natural next step,” said Johanna Nissén Karlsson, CEO of Vividye. “The cosmetics industry faces distinct challenges, including stringent regulatory demands and high consumer expectations for product safety and environmental sustainability. Our technology offers a better alternative to traditional dyes, and we’ve seen a growing need for this in products that people use on their skin and hair...”
“Vividye’s approach to sustainable coloring is both innovative and practical,” adds Pontus Ottosson, CEO and head of investment at Chalmers Ventures. “Expanding into cosmetics shows their ability to adapt and meet the needs of different industries. We’re proud to support them as they take this next step.”
Sustainability and Ethical Sourcing
Upcycling Potato Juice into High-value Fatty Acids
Amsterdam-based ChainCraft, an expert in the production of circular chemicals, and Royal Avebe, a leader in potato-based starch and protein innovations, announced a collaboration to convert Avebe’s residual potato juice into high-value circular fatty acids using ChainCraft’s fermentation technology.
Fermentation powers sustainable beauty innovation: Per the companies, the technology enables the use of organic waste streams as a replacement for fossil feedstocks and palm oil as a raw material, to contribute to a lower CO2 footprint and preserve biodiversity by preventing deforestation. This, in turn, supports manufacturers of specialty chemicals, flavors, fragrances and others to meet their climate goals.
David Fousert, CEO at Avebe, commented, “ ...[T]his collaboration ensures more circularity and also saves energy. It contributes to the further creation of efficient production processes. ... For the northern part of the Netherlands, this collaboration means a more sustainable agricultural sector and region. And it also contributes to more employment opportunities in the north.”
Carbon Trust Verifies BASF’s Lower Carbon Footprint HDO Intermediate
The Carbon Trust, a global climate consultancy, has verified that four BASF intermediate products have a demonstrably lower cradle-to-gate product carbon footprint (PCF) than the market average for fossil-based equivalent products. These ingredients have earned the Carbon Trust label and Lower than Market claim.
Carbon Trust verified BASF intermediates: Verified ingredients include the following.
- 1,6-Hexanediol (HDO), used in the production of cosmetics as well as industrial coatings, polyurethanes and adhesives. Per BASF, HDO gives end products flexibility, adhesion properties and weather resistance.
- Formic acid (FA), used to preserve animal feed, ensure efficient coagulation during latex extraction, etc.
- Propionic acid (PA), used in animal feed to extend shelf life and used in the production of pharmaceuticals, pesticides, solvents and plastics.
- Neopentyl glycol (NPG), used to produce polyester and alkyd resins.
According to BASF, the verification for HDO is valid until May 2026.
Identical efficacy, green transformation plus transparency: Also per BASF, these products are identical to standard products in terms of quality and properties, meaning they are “drop-in” solutions for customers. This will allow users to easily and efficiently reduce CO2 emissions from purchased goods or services.
“We are proud of the verification because it reflects our strong commitment to support our customers’ green transformation, as stated in BASF’s recently announced ‘Winning Ways’ Strategy...” remarked Ketan Joshi, president of BASF’s intermediates division.
Veronika Thieme, associate director of the Carbon Trust, added: “As customer awareness about the environmental impact of their product choices grows within the chemical industry, there is an increasing demand for transparency. When BASF customers encounter the Carbon Trust verification and label, they can be confident that these verified products have undergone a rigorous process to demonstrate a lower carbon footprint...”
Biodegradable Soltellus Polymers
The Soltellus ingredient range is designed to ensure a stable, rich, creamy foam and lather that is easy to spread, providing the deeper, more thorough removal of dirt, oil and impurities.Image by Blackday at Adobe Stock
Lygos, Inc., has partnered with Acme-Hardesty to offer Lygos’ Soltellus line of biodegradable, water-soluble polymers in the personal care and home care markets.
Sustainability and high performance: The Soltellus (INCI: Sodium Polyaspartate) ingredient range is reportedly designed to meet the growing demand for sustainable products. They are also engineered to deliver high performance for applications including the following.
- Hair care, to enhance softness, smoothness, shine and wet combability, resulting in healthy looking hair.
- Cleansing, to ensure a stable, rich, creamy foam and lather that is easy to spread, providing the deeper, more thorough removal of dirt, oil and impurities.
- Emulsions, to improve the user experience with smoother application and luxurious after-feel, preserving formulation quality while leaving skin hydrated.
Broader reach, more sustainable options: Rich Weber, chief business officer of Lygos, said: “We are excited to partner with [Acme-Hardesty] to reach a broader customer base, accelerate market penetration, and drive the adoption of high-performing, sustainable solutions.”
Caren Dres-Hajeski, senior vice president of personal care and marketing at Acme-Hardesty, added: “This collaboration allows us to offer even more sustainable options to the personal care and home care markets, helping our customers create products that are both effective and environmentally friendly.”
Hair Health Boosters
Elevance Ultra, a Next-gen Hair Fixative/Pigment Dispersant
To address the global demand for ingredients with high performance and enhanced safety and sustainability profiles, Advancion Corp. (formerly Angus Chemical Co.) has launched several multifunctional additives for various industries based on its novel aminoamyl alcohol technology platform.
For personal care and cosmetics, the Elevance Ultra (INCI: Amino Methylisobutanol) technology is said to:
- Provide superior hair fixative resin performance,
- Provide powerful pigment dispersion,
- Act as a high-efficiency stabilizer and neutralizer,
- Enhance the performance and sensory quality of formulations, including high-alcohol and hand-sanitizing gels, and
- Be compatible with a wide range of commonly used natural and synthetic formulating ingredients, supporting cleaner and more effective personal care products.
Biodegradable, multifunctional: Elevance Ultra is described as readily biodegradable, with an excellent safety profile. Per the company, the ingredient is the only stand-alone technology on the market that outperforms AMP across a range of applications.
In hair styling, it is not only compatible with various hair fixative resins and hair spray propellants, supporting their performance, it also provides in-can corrosion protection and superior curl retention in high-humidity conditions, the company reports. The ingredient is available as an anhydrous solid (Elevance Ultra 1000), or as an aqueous solution at concentrations of 95% (Elevance Ultra 2000) or 89% (Elevance Ultra 3000).
Powerful and versatile formulation innovation: “This innovation embodies our dedication to pushing the boundaries of what’s possible, offering the market powerful, versatile and environmentally responsible solutions for today’s complex formulation challenges,” said Kathleen Havelka, Ph.D., senior vice president of research, development and applications.
“Our next-generation formulating ingredients were designed to deliver the qualities and performance formulators rely on for dependable and superior results, while meeting increasingly stringent safety and regulatory standards across personal care, coatings, metalworking fluids, electronics and other essential end-use applications.”
David Neuberger, president and chief executive officer, added, “...Advancion’s new multifunctional additive platform was specifically engineered to deliver performance exceeding that of AMP (aminomethyl propanol) in formulations across all known market applications, while simultaneously providing a best-in-class safety and toxicity profile.
CapilAcid Hair Protector, Oleobiota Sebum Normalizer
Evonik has expanded its natural actives portfolio with two botanical-based ingredients: CapilAcid for hair protection and Oleobiota for sebum control. The company recently highlighted these ingredients, which originated from Evonik’s acquisition of Novachem, as they are integrated into Evonik’s care solutions business.
Antioxidant hair defense: CapilAcid (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract) is derived from the maqui fruit, also known as Chilean wineberry. The ingredient serves as a “comprehensive protector from the root to the tip of the hair and is a powerful antioxidant,” the company reports.
The product excels in acidic formulations, safeguarding hair against exosome-induced stress and promoting overall hair health.
Sebum normalizer, pore minimizer: Oleobiota (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Eugenia Uniflora Leaf Extract) is reported sourced sustainably from Ñangapirí leaves in the Misiones rainforest. It can be used to regulate sebum and mattify combination and oily skin while minimizing the appearance of pores.
According to Evonik, the ingredient was developed in accordance with the Nagoya Protocol to support biodiversity.
Sustainability through biosolutions: The company underscores that its botanicals and natural actives segment is important in expanding the company’s portfolio of biosolutions. By translating the phytochemical profile of plants into skin and hair care benefits, Evonik supports customers to meet demands for sustainable, scientifically substantiated beauty and personal care products.
Ute Schick, head of the care solutions business at Evonik, stated, “Novachem has enabled us to elevate our offerings, and deliver even more unique sustainable solutions to our customers.” n
The beauty industry is at the forefront of innovation, advancing both sustainability and product performance through cutting-edge solutions. Key developments include AI-driven discoveries, plant-based ingredients and preservative-free formulations.
From AI-driven discoveries to plant-based ingredients and preservative-free solutions, the beauty industry is innovating sustainability and product performance.
References
1. https://jitc.bmj.com/content/11/Suppl_1/A948
2. https://www.bme.jhu.edu/news-events/news/artificial-snail-mucus-could-advance-cancer-treatments/
3. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39673555/
4. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/359361920_Snail_mucus_-_a_natural_origin_substance_with_potential_use_in_medicine
