Brewing Up Biotech: Tea Catechins and Their Anti-Aging Impact

Tea, derived from the leaves of Camellia spp., is one of the most widely consumed beverages globally, and is cherished not only for its cultural significance but also for its substantial health benefits. Historically, tea has been utilized in traditional medicine systems across Asia for centuries. Camellia sinensis and Camellia assamica are the major agro-industrial producing cultivars of tea for beverages. 

Tea beverages have been demonstrated to potentially induce positive effects, enhance mental task performance, promote refreshment and alleviate feelings of fatigue¹, all of which are directly beneficial for mindful beauty or neurocosmetics.^2,3 The integrative bridge of agro-food and cosmetic industry abided with tea is recently supported by growing evidence. The sustainability aspect of tea utilization is gaining prominence and meeting with the consumers’ consideration toward the sustainable products.

Beyond conventional consumption, the cosmetic application of tea has been emerging significantly abided with the pharmaceutically actives polyphenols.⁴ Consequently, the diversification of tea into skin and hair care products represents a logical evolution in cosmeceuticals. Tea extract was reported to protect against UV-induced skin and hair damages.^5-7 Tea extract is now a common ingredient in skin care and hair care products that are currently marketed. However, the transition from a general ingredient to an efficient, validated active agent requires rigorous scientific scrutiny. 

Furthermore, the sustainability aspect of tea utilization is gaining prominence. The tea industry generates substantial amounts of by-products, such as old leaves, stems and tea dust, which are often discarded. Utilizing these by-products aligns with the principles of a biocircular economy, where waste is repurposed into valuable cosmetic ingredients, thereby reducing environmental impact while adding tea’s economic value. More importantly, biotechnological transformation of the leftover parts of tea that are excluded or discarded from tea plantations and processing plants into specialty materials for consumer products associating in well-being and longevity proposes are emerging among the consumers’ preferences towards sustainability, including amidst the researchers’ and industrials’ interests.  

Among tea active compounds, catechins have garnered significant attention for their benefits. Major catechins include (+)-catechin, (–)-epicatechin, epigallocatechin (EGC), gallocatechin (GC) and especially epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), the principle bioactive compound in tea (See Figure 1). These compounds possess several pharmacological activities that are promising for dermatology,⁸ in addition to the unique anti-fatigue effects in correspondence with oxidative stresses.^9,10 

Recently, tea leaves discarded from beverage production were valorized into catechins-rich extract with a qualified amount of EGCG. The antioxidative extract prepared was standardized (see Figure 1). This high-value bioactive standardized extract together with EGCG were proved to efficiently maintain skin homeostasis and powerfully mitigate photoaging and senescent aging⁵ and hair loss⁶ with the indicated mechanisms relevant to oxidative stress and inflammation (see Figure 2 and Figure 3). The methodological rigor of the biocircular tea catechins extract in terms of quality control, characterization and biological efficacy and safety are validated. 

Figure 1 - Tea catechins extract riches in EGCG contentCourtesy of authors

Looking to the future, the global catechin market is valued at $22.8 million in 2025 and is projected to reach $32.6 million by 2035. EGCG alone accounts for a major share (60%) of the global nutraceutical and pharmaceutical polyphenol market¹¹ due to their cosmetic significances.^5,6 However, catechins content in field-grown tea plants fluctuates by several factors that extends lead-time production of the primary raw material, tea leaves and labor. Furthermore, extraction and fractionation procedures are of crucial importance, affecting the quality of the catechins extract as well. 

These inconsistencies pose major challenges for high-quality tea catechins extract. Thus, alternative and efficient routes producing catechins extract and EGCG are worthily to be challenged. Primarily, the sustainable sourcing of tea catechins extract should be prioritized as the industry moves toward a biocircular economy. Biotechnological production has emerged as a critical industrial solution for a production of high-value secondary metabolites, whereby the sustainable aspects are archived in turn. 

Figure 2 - Anti-photoaging and anti-senescent ageing activities of tea extract and EGCG in
cocultures of keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts (at 10 µg/mL) and ex vivo models
(at 100 µg/mL)Courtesy of authors

Figure 3 - Cellular antioxidation, proliferation stimulating and anti-inflammatory activities of tea
extract and EGCG (at 10 µg/mL) in human follicle dermal papilla (HFDP)Courtesy of authors

Tea Catechins and Their Biotech Appeal

Similar to the different segments of the fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) industry, the cosmetic industry is under increasing pressure to adopt green chemistry and circular economy principles. Tea production generates vast quantities of agricultural waste, including leaves that do not meet brewing standards and are thus excluded from beverage processing. The leftover part of tea is highlighted as the potential tea by-product to be valorized giving high-quality catechins extract, with the promising efficiencies combating/preventing aging and hair loss.^5,6 This creates a biocircular economy of tea enhancing the cosmetic narrative of sustainability, appealing to eco-conscious consumers accordingly.

The biosynthesis of catechins in tea mainly consists of four parts: the shikimate pathway, the phenylpropanoid pathway and flavonoid pathways, all of which produce naringin, where catechins and gallate catechins are further biosynthesized (see Figure 4). Different regulating enzymes in each step are enrolled, including phenylalanine aminolase (PAL), chalcone synthase (CHS), chalcone isomerase (CHI) and flavonoid-3’-hydroxylase (F3’H) and flavonoid 3′,5′-hydroxylase (F3′,5′H) in the shikimate, phenylpropanoid and flavonoid pathways, respectively. The resulting dihydroquercetin and dihydromyricetin are further synthesized into catechins via leucocyanidin and leucodelphinidin with dihydroflavonol 4-reductase (DFR), leucoanthocyanidin reductase (LAR), anthocyanidin synthase (ANS) and anthocyanidin reductase (ANR). 

Figure 4 - Biosynthesis of catechins in teaCourtesy of authors

Catechins produced by means of metabolic engineering may be manipulated efficiently in plant biosynthesis via these pathways. However, it should be noted that a certain period of time is compulsory for the catechins synthesis in tea plants. 

Biotechnology production of secondary metabolites can be alternatively adopted for the selected compound production, either by plant in vitro cultures or metabolic engineering, or heterologous production in microorganisms. The latter producing route might face several challenge points, particularly the clarity on microbial contamination of the final produced catechins extract. Accordingly, a combining concept of in vitro cultures and metabolic engineering will produce a surplus of tea catechins and EGCG extracts, with a minimal separation, fractionation and purification procedures in a comparison with those derived from tea plants’ production route. 

Plant in vitro cultures are implied for the biosynthesis of the certain secondary metabolites under specified mediums, nutrients and controlled environmental conditions for a period of time with or without the appropriated elicitors in aid on the target metabolites and different types of cultures, i.e., cell cultures (suspensions or protoplasts), or callus cultures (undifferentiated tissues) or organ cultures (shoots or roots) (see Figure 5). 

Figure 5 - Biotech producing perspectives for tea and catechins extractsCourtesy of authors

Recent advances have moved beyond simple callus initiation to complex metabolic engineering and elicitation strategies designed to maximize the yield of specific catechins. The establishment of robust cell suspension cultures is feasibly taken into account for an industrial-scale production. 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D) and 6-benzylaminopurine (BAP) are the widely used plant growth regulators (PGRs) in plant cell cultures, which indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) is additionally specified for catechins producing cultures. In the meantime, Murashige and Skoog (MS) basal salts are the common culture medium used.  

In addition to starting the cell cultures synthesis of catechins with the prime precursors, phenylalanine, p-coumaryl CoA, chalcone and naringenin are also implied for a short-cut production, including dihydroquercetin and dihydromyricetin as demonstrated in Fig. 1. In fact, phenylalanine is typically the most effective and economical precursor. To upregulate the phenylpropanoid pathway, which leads to catechin synthesis, methyl jasmonate (MeJA) and salicylic acid (SA) are the elicitors effectively channelling metabolic flux toward the production of defensive secondary metabolites including catechins. Ethanol can function as oxidative stress accumulating in catechin formation upregulating PAL at the same time. In addition, metal oxide nanoparticles, such as iron oxide nanoparticles (Fe₃O₄), can upregulate the key enzyme PAL, leading to marked increases in phenolic accumulation. 

Furthermore, physical stresses by means of light exposures with specific UV and light spectra are applicable, as well as temperature. Combining light stress with MeJA has resulted in synergistic increases in EGCG yields, pushing total catechin content to levels competitive with high-grade tea leaves¹², achieving the biotech route of tea catechins and EGCG extracts production.

Scaling up from flask to bioreactor is essential for commercial viability. Stirred-tank bioreactors (CSTR) are the most used systems due to their ability to maintain uniform shear stress and dissolved oxygen levels. Optimized protocols in bioreactor environments have achieved total catechin yields exceeding 228.5 mg/g dry weight (DW), with specific EGCG fractions constituting a significant portion of this biomass.¹² This represents a significant improvement over field-grown averages, which typically range from 10–15% DW. 

Conclusions and Future Perspectives

The global demand for natural bioactive compounds has witnessed an unprecedented surge, driven by a paradigm shift in consumer preference towards natural, sustainable, eco-friendly and biocircular FMCG products. Tea has been consumed globally in regard with its health benefits. Moreover, the mental benefits of tea contribute to its neurocosmetic potentials.^2,3 Catechins, the pharmacologically active compounds of tea, specifically EGCG as the mindful anti-aging agents for skin and hair.^4-10 Accordingly, their global demands keep increasing.¹¹ 

The established plant tissue culture for the production of tea and catechins extracts is emerging as a viable industrial platform. The integration of appropriated elicitors and stress factors during production marks a significant leap forward, bypassing biosynthesis of catechins. In addition, the production capability can be achieved with controlled bioreactors, addressing the supply chain volatility of traditional agriculture. 

However, the bridge between high-yield laboratory production and market-ready products lies in rigorous quality control. Compliance with FDA regulations that encompasses identity verification, standardization of marker compounds, elimination of culture media residues, and assurance of microbiological safety, are required, and necessary to be collaborating and worked-out with all of the stakeholders. 

Looking forward, the future of the production of tea and catechins extracts lies in the convergence of biotechnology and digital engineering. The adoption of plant cell factories utilizing metabolic engineering to upregulate specific biosynthetic pathways holds immense promise for creating the producer cell lines. Additionally, the implementation of machine learning (ML) and AI for bioprocess monitoring and optimization will likely revolutionize the consistency and scalability of production. 

As these technologies mature, biotechnologically-derived tea and catechins extracts are poised to become a staple in the FMCG industries, offering standardized, safe and potent biological active agents, specifically the mindful anti-aging agents for skin and hair that directly beneficial for mindful beauty or neurocosmetics.

References

1. C Kurosaka, C Tagata, S Nakagawa, S Miyake. Effects of green tea and roasted green tea on human responses. Sci Rep. (14) 8588 (2024) https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-59383-y
2. Haykal D, Berardesca E, Kabashima K, Dréno B. Beyond beauty: Neurocosmetics, the skin-brain axis, and the future of emotionally intelligent skincare. Clin Dermatol. (43) 523-527 (2025)
3. K Massey. Mind-body beauty - A holistic beauty concept for body and soul with rising potential. SÖFW J. (151) 28-32 (2025)
4. N Bharadvaja, S Gautam, H Singh. Natural polyphenols: a promising bioactive compounds for skin care and cosmetics. Mol Biol Rep. (50) 1817-1828 (2023)
5. M Kanlayavattanakul, M Khongkow, W Klinngam, P Chaikul, N Lourith, P Chueamchaitrakun. Recent insights into catechins-rich Assam tea extract for photoaging and senescent ageing. Sci Rep. (14) 2253 (2024) https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-52781-2
6. M Kanlayavattanakul, M Khongkow, K Chanthanam, GK-W Yuen, KW-K Tsim, N Lourith, P Chaikul, P Chueamchaitrakun. Catechins-rich tea extract and its functional properties mitigating hair loss. Discov Food. (5) 406 (2025) https://doi.org/10.1007/s44187-025-00698-8
7. Y-Y Sheng, J Xiang, J-L Lu, J-H Ye, Z-J Chen, J-W Zhao, Y-R Liang, X-Q Zheng. Protective effects of gallocatechin gallate against ultraviolet B induced skin damages in hairless mice. Sci Rep. (12) 1310 (2022) https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-022-05305-9
8. L Frasheri, MC Schielein, L Tizek, P Mikschl, T Biedermann, A Zink. Great green tea ingredient? A narrative literature review on epigallocatechin gallate and its biophysical properties for topical use in dermatology. Phytother Res. (34) 2170-2179 (2020)
9. Y-S Teng, D Wu. Anti-fatigue effect of green tea polyphenols (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Pharmacogn Mag. (13) 326-331 (2017)
10. A Singal, S Kaur, N Tirkey, K Chopra.  Green tea extract and catechin ameliorate chronic fatigue-induced oxidative stress in mice. J Med Food. (8) 47-52 (2005)
11. Fact.MR. Catechin Market Forecast and Outlook 2025 to 2035. 20 November 2025.  https://www.factmr.com/report/catechin-market
12. N Shibasaki-Kitakawa, J Takeishi, Yonemoto T. Improvement of catechin productivity in suspension cultures of tea callus cells. Biotechnol Prog. (19) 655-658 (2003)