For years, formulators have faced a familiar challenge: meeting consumer expectations for product performance while responding to their growing interest in sustainable options. Consumers want products that feel good on the skin, deliver visible benefits and align with their values. At the same time, regulatory developments and growing scrutiny of ingredient choices are reshaping formulation priorities across the beauty and personal care industry.
These pressures are particularly evident in skin care and sun care, where sensory performance can play a defining role in consumer satisfaction. Product efficacy alone isn’t always enough. A formulation that feels sticky or leaves a greasy after-feel may fall short of the desired sensory experience and ultimately contribute to some consumer dissatisfaction.
Recent consumer research highlights the scale of this challenge. Eastman's Global Skin Care Report[1] found that 45% of women and girls surveyed across six countries report difficulty finding facial skin care products that meet all of their needs. Common frustrations include sticky textures, post-application greasiness and a lack of visible results. Meanwhile, 39% actively read ingredient lists to identify products containing sustainable ingredients, highlighting the growing importance of sustainability in purchasing decisions.
For formulators, the challenge extends beyond consumer expectations. Regulatory changes are accelerating demand for new ingredient solutions. The European Commission’s Regulation (EU) 2023/2055, commonly referred to as the EU microplastics regulation, is accelerating the need for brands to identify biodegradable ingredient alternatives. As key product labeling and transition deadlines approach, formulators are working closely with suppliers to identify high-performance solutions for both re-formulations and product launches.
This shift is shaping brand formulation strategies. Eastman's research among 150 research and development professionals involved in ingredient or supplier selection at consumer-packaged goods (CPG) and fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) companies found nearly half expect biodegradability to become mainstream within their ingredient portfolios in the next two to five years. Yet only 52% report satisfaction with the solutions currently available to them. The gap suggests an opportunity for ingredients that can combine performance and biodegradable attributes while meeting consumer product expectations.
One area of ingredient innovation is multifunctional micropowders. The Eastman Esmeri™ portfolio was developed as a high-performance, biodegradable alternative to synthetic polymer microparticles, silica and other micropowder options. Building on this approach, Esmeri SK1N10 helps formulators address the gap between performance and biodegradability. The readily biodegradable[2], non-nano[3] cellulose ester micropowder is designed for aqueous and oil-in-water systems and is compatible with a broad range of skin care and sun care applications, including serums, moisturizers, sprays, eye treatments and sunscreens. It helps provide an immediate soft-focus blurring effect that minimizes the appearance of pores, fine lines and wrinkles, while also delivering a quick dry-down and helping control shine for a soft, powdery matte finish.
The multifunctionality of this ingredient goes beyond sensory benefits. In SPF formulations, Esmeri SK1N10 can help enhance the performance of both organic and inorganic UV filters through UV scattering, creating an SPF-boosting effect. This could have the potential to reduce UV-filter concentrations in formulations, while improving tactile properties.
Ultimately, the industry's direction is becoming clear. Consumers increasingly expect products that deliver sustainability attributes, like biodegradability, and performance simultaneously. Meeting these expectations requires solutions that address sensory experience, efficacy, formulation flexibility and biodegradability together.
As skin care and sun care continue to evolve, the most successful ingredient innovations may be those that help formulators move beyond the traditional performance-versus-sustainability tradeoff and toward a future where both can advance together.
[1] The Eastman Global Skin Care Report surveyed 6,000 female skin care users ages 12–70 across six countries, exploring their experiences, needs and purchase priorities for leave-on facial skin care products; and 150 research and development professionals involved in ingredient or supplier selection at consumer-packaged goods and fast-moving consumer goods companies across North America, Europe and Asia, exploring sustainability priorities, current market satisfaction and the growing role of biodegradability in skin care formulation.
[2] Readily biodegradable in compliance with regulation (EU) 2023/2055 on “Synthetic Polymer Microparticles”
[3] According to EC recommendation of (2022/C 229/01)
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