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Section: Testing

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Guiding Sunscreen Traffic Across the Globe

Sunscreens are classified and regulated differently around the world. For instance, the United States considers sunscreens as OTC products, while Canada has a two-part classification system; other places classify sunscreens as cosmetics. Labeling and registering differ worldwide as well. In some cases, labels require certain Drug Facts or safety registration numbers, among others. This article reviews these differences.

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Seeing the Forest Through Dermocosmetic Trees

European researchers were barking up the right trees when they examined 30 extracts from 10 tree barks for their potential in dermocosmetic applications.

Determination of the In Vitro SPF

A ring test at six European test centers showed that SPF evaluations with good reproducibility and comparability could be obtained by an in vitro protocol measuring either transmittance or erythema-effective irradiance of product samples applied on PMMA plates.

After 14 days, M. cochinchinensis extract improved stinging, irritation, itch and discomfort by 67%, 100%, 91% and 100%, respectively.

Holistically Derailing the Sensitive Scalp ‘Rollercoaster’

A Maclura cochinchinensis extract was developed to provide holistic relief for sensitive scalps by derailing multiple interconnected aspects of this “rollercoaster” condition. The active’s efficacy was tested in vitro and in vivo as described here.

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: Dancing to the Dollar

In this installment of our "Words from Wiechers" series, co-author O'Lenick disagrees with Wiechers's belief that cosmetic and pharma businesses are driven by the same dynamics. Read on to learn more.

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Spaceflight Shifts the Microbiome and Skin Condition

The effects of spaceflight on the skin microbiome and structure, and subsequent changes in skin health, sensitivity and the onset of conditions are described in a recent review published in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology.

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Laying Down the Law: Global Regulatory Frameworks

Shifting regulations have much of the world looking to follow Europe's example. Here, what to consider as you move forward in the regulatory process.

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Methylene Blue—The Antioxidant Answer to Aging?

The antioxidant methylene blue may be the answer to slow down aging, according to new research from the University of Maryland. Scientists are already formulating products for consumer use with the chemical.

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Secrets of the Trees for Super Cosmetics?

Trees are not the mute, woody giants we think them to be. They are actually quite chatty. What do talking trees have to do with cosmetics? I started to draw parallels between them our industry’s work on the microbiome, epigenetics and wellness cosmetics; even sustainability.

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Photostability Leads the Way: Formulating Safer Sunscreens

The need to prevent skin from UV damage is well-understood but the most effective way to achieve this is not. Here, a novel photostabilizer is presented in a test pump sunscreen spray formula as part of a total photoprotection strategy.

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SPF Testing: Who's Got Their 'Backs?'

"Isn’t it time for governments and industry to standardize an in vitro SPF test to replace human testing?" Karl Laden, Ph.D., of Alpa Cosmetics, asks in this brief commentary. What do you think?

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Untouched, 'Primitive' Microbiome Sets the Skin Health Benchmark

As it turns out, on skin, the more "bugs," the better; and cosmetics could be negatively affecting their diversity. New research from the UK compared microbiomes to set a "healthy skin standard," against which the effects of products can be measured, in the future.

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Kao Takes the Heat Off Infrared-exposed Skin

By focusing on principle factors related to light wave interference, Kao researchers have identified a means to selectively block the NIR wavelength.

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Measuring the Antioxidant Potential of an Acai Extract

The antioxidant potential of cosmetic materials can be evaluated by several methodologies, including a commercial kit that measures total antioxidant status, as illustrated here with a commercial extract from the fruit of the açaí, a Brazilian palm tree. Applications in antiaging products are suggested.

Measuring the Antioxidant Potential of an Acai Extract

The antioxidant potential of cosmetic materials can be evaluated by several methodologies, including a commercial kit that measures total antioxidant status, as illustrated here with a commercial extract from the fruit of the açaí, a Brazilian palm tree. Applications in antiaging products are suggested.

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[podcast] The Ugly Truth About Cosmetic Marketing

Paraben-free—a marketing term that helped to propel consumer fear of ingredients such as preservatives and sulfates. Rob Ross-Fichtner, of Focal Point Research Inc., shared in an exclusive interview how this movement toward misinformation started, how groups perpetuating consumer mistrust responded and where the industry goes from here.

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Editor's Note: The Fiber of Our Being

It’s in the very fiber of our being to bring you data and ideas that are critical and relevant to your product development efforts, beyond space constraints.

Can your mirror track your skin's condition? HiMirror says yes.

'Mirror, Mirror, in the Internet of Things. . .

...use great caution with the advice you bring.' Just what we need. Another critic scrutinizing appearance. And before coffee no less. Yet, this unbiased, digitized evaluation offers interesting potential; and if we don't like it, we can always turn it off.

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