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Section: Testing

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[podcast] The Next-generation Retinoid

Retinol has proven anti-aging benefits, but also drawbacks. However, according to Tom Mammone, Ph.D., of The Estée Lauder Cos. and Clinique Labs, a new retinoid ester could bridge this divide. Listen now!

Johann W. Wiechers, Ph.D.

Words from Wiechers: The Power of Suggestion

In this edition of our Words from Wiechers series, the late author explains the power of belief in product efficacy—and why products should be evaluated based on the perceived value they deliver to consumers.

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Nestlé Sets Out to 'Master the Microbiome'

Nestlé Health Science has entered the microbiome research sphere with the creation of Microbiome Diagnostic Partners, a joint venture with Enterome.

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Bee Venom is Back in the Buzz

Bee venom is back, this time with data. According to a thesis from the University of Strathclyde, previous reports of its effects were anecdotal and incomplete. Now there's science backing it; especially in terms of safety.

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Shiseido Tech Takes Personalization to the Exposome

How can custom skin care become more customized? Shiseido believes by plotting skin conditions in real-time as a function of environmental factors. A new smart phone-driven system does just that.

The Nagoya Protocol for Cosmetics and Extracts

The Nagoya Protocol is an international law applying to genetic resources and ensuring the countries of origin share in the benefits from using these materials.

Skin Toxicology—The Future May Be Orange

Here, industry expert Johann Wiechers, PhD, discusses the frequent use of percentages by toxicologists to calculate skin penetration. To relate this discussion to modern day events, Wiechers describes the skin penetration of orange paint, used by fans of the Dutch national football team.

Predicting the Percutaneous Penetration of Cosmetic Ingredients

While previous algorithms for predicting the skin absorption of permeants was based on in vitro data, the present article proposes a quantitative structure-activity relationship (QSAR) model based on in vivo human data. Here, a set of human in vivo data is described that provides entry into predicting the penetration of cosmetic ingredients.

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Tress Stress: How the Environment Affects Hair

The drive for "anti-pollution" personal care may not apply to hair care as strongly as other segments. Despite this, environmental stressors can impact hair's chemistry. This column provides a scientific basis by which formulation and claims strategies might be constructed.

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Managing Adversities: Atopic Dermatitis and the Microbiome

The AD process and S. aureus provide targets for intervention, which can be explored in vitro as described here. Although not causative, there is a strong correlation between the severity of AD and density of S. aureus in the microbiome.

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Skin Microbiome Manipulation as a Therapeutic Opportunity?

A review published in the Computational and Structural Biotechnology Journal explores the current state of the art in skin microbiome manipulation and transplantation for potential therapies.

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[podcast] The Bigger Issue Behind Microbial Contamination

Many cosmetic recalls in the U.S. relate to microbial contamination but not for the reason you might think. Here, experts from the Univ. of Cincinnati and PCPC explain why it's more than alternative preservatives to blame. Listen now. It's free.

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Letter to the Editor: Resorcinol Clarification

Please take note of this concerned reader's comment, as Cosmetics & Toiletries and Global Cosmetic Industry do not wish to propagate false or misleading information to the cosmetic community.

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Guiding Sunscreen Traffic Across the Globe

Sunscreens are classified and regulated differently around the world. For instance, the United States considers sunscreens as OTC products, while Canada has a two-part classification system; other places classify sunscreens as cosmetics. Labeling and registering differ worldwide as well. In some cases, labels require certain Drug Facts or safety registration numbers, among others. This article reviews these differences.

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Seeing the Forest Through Dermocosmetic Trees

European researchers were barking up the right trees when they examined 30 extracts from 10 tree barks for their potential in dermocosmetic applications.

Determination of the In Vitro SPF

A ring test at six European test centers showed that SPF evaluations with good reproducibility and comparability could be obtained by an in vitro protocol measuring either transmittance or erythema-effective irradiance of product samples applied on PMMA plates.

After 14 days, M. cochinchinensis extract improved stinging, irritation, itch and discomfort by 67%, 100%, 91% and 100%, respectively.

Holistically Derailing the Sensitive Scalp ‘Rollercoaster’

A Maclura cochinchinensis extract was developed to provide holistic relief for sensitive scalps by derailing multiple interconnected aspects of this “rollercoaster” condition. The active’s efficacy was tested in vitro and in vivo as described here.

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Symrise’s Thermolat Reveals Warming Test Results

“Thanks to its safe and gentle effect, Thermolat can be used in a very wide range of care and beauty products and gives them the ability to create a cozy warm feeling.”

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