Formula Focus: Sensitive and Compromised Skin Strengthener

Nov 6th, 2020

Mibelle Biochemistry

This editor's pick highlights Mibelle Biochemistry's CM-Glucan Forte (INCI: Magnesium Carboxymethyl Beta-glucan), a vegan beta glucan from baker's yeast, which has been shown to alleviate six symptoms of eczema and strengthen the skin barrier.

The ingredient also is reported to calm sensitive and itching skin, and rebalance the skin's immune system in less than one week. Furthermore, in vitro it was shown to reduce IgE antibody production, the release of IL-1α and IL-8 expression (a marker for atopic skin), while inhibiting the adhesion of Staphylococcus aureus bacteria to skin. Notably, the following formula provides a simple solution with only 11 ingredients.

Sensitive and Compromised Skin Strengthener

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (o/w emulsifier)

qs to 0.80% w/w

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (emollient)

7.00

Triisostearin (emollient)

5.00

Butyrospermum Parkii (Karite ON, Sophim; emollient)

2.00

Phase B.

Water (aqua) (solvent)

65.91

Glycerin (humectant)

15.00

Phenoxyethanol (preservative)

0.80

Chlorphenesin (preservative)

0.25

Phase C.

Sodium Polyacrylate (thickening polymer/stabilizer)

1.20

Phase D.

Water (aqua)

2.00

Magnesium Carboxymethyl Beta-glucan (CM-Glucan Forte, Mibelle Biochemistry; skin care agent)

0.04

Procedure: Mix A and heat to 75-80°C under agitation. Separately mix water and glycerin of B and heat to 75-80°C. Add remainder of B. Pour A into B under agitation and begin cooling. At 70-72°C, start homogenization. Homogenize to homogeneity. Disperse C into emulsion under strong agitation. Verify homogeneity. If needed, continue homogenizing until homogeneity. Cool to 40°C under agitation. Presolve beta glucan of D in water. Add D to emulsion under agitation and mix to homogeneity. Verify pH. Adjust to pH 5.5-6.0 if necessary.