When walking through the cosmetics aisle at any given store, the phrase “backed by dermatologists” shows up on most packages. There is a clear demand for products founded in science and evaluated by doctors. The rise of dermocosmetics is an extension of the slow aging trend; consumers want to target skin issues at the cellular level rather than just covering them up.
The global dermocosmetics market was valued at $39 billion in 2025 and is expected to grow to $85.7 billion by 2035, according to a market report from Global Market Insights. This represents a compound annual growth rate of 8.4%, largely driven by innovation through R&D and biotechnology to meet consumer demand. Further, Euromonitor’s Voice of the Consumer: Beauty survey from 2023 showed that 30% of respondents purchase dermocosmetics for skin health benefits, and 24% purchase them for better alignment to their skin type.
Cosmetics & Toiletries solicited the insight of experts from across the industry to learn more about the rise in dermocosmetics and what this means for formulators in the future.
- Claudia Barba, PhD, technical services manager, beauty and personal care - North America, Ingredients +Specialities from Univar Solutions
- Philippe Daigle, portfolio manager, active ingredients, Lucas Meyers Cosmetics by Clariant
- Dr. Howard Epstein, technical director, cosmetic actives innovation and applications, Susonity
- Giada Maramaldi, global category manager, botanical actives and integrated solutions lead / Kacey Brides, marketing manager, Givaudan
What current trends are you seeing in dermocosmetics and dermatologist-backed products in the beauty and personal care industry?
Claudia Barba [CB]: Dermocosmetics continue to gain momentum as consumers seek products that combine clinically proven efficacy with high levels of safety and tolerability, particularly for sensitive and reactive skin. Today's consumers are looking for science-backed solutions that help deliver visible results while supporting long-term skin health.
A major area of focus is skin barrier health and resilience, driving demand for ingredients such as ceramides, peptides, niacinamide, and advanced hydration technologies. Evidence-based actives, including vitamin derivatives and retinoids, remain highly relevant due to their well-established benefits. We are also seeing increased interest in minimalist formulations, microbiome-friendly products, and at-home treatments designed to enhance the consumer experience.
Another important trend is the evolution of dermocosmetics beyond purely functional products. Consumers now expect effective formulations that also provide an enjoyable sensory experience, creating opportunities for products that balance dermatological performance with cosmetic elegance.
Philippe Daigle [PD]: The clearest signal we're picking up in dermocosmetics and dermatologist-backed products is the "medicalization of beauty". Consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic products that either replicate the visible benefits of aesthetic procedures without their cost, downtime, or invasiveness, or complement professional treatments by enhancing and prolonging their results while minimizing side effects such as redness, irritation, and discomfort. This evolution is already visible on the market, with products using the language and codes of aesthetic medicine through names such as "Needless Serum" or making references to injectables and laser treatments.
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What future directions might these trends take? Where is there potential?
Howard Epstein [HE]: The next generation of dermocosmetics may be built around “protect by day, restore by night.” Daytime formulas can focus on defense against UVA, UVB, ambient blue light, infrared exposure and pollution. Nighttime products can prioritize barrier support, moisturization, soothing and repair, when skin may be more prone to dryness and itching.
There is also growing potential for sunscreens that extend beyond UV protection. While BEMT strengthens UVA and UVB coverage, it can be paired with complementary technologies designed to address high-energy visible light and oxidative stress.
Giada Maramaldi / Kacey Brides [GM/KB]: Looking ahead, dermocosmetics will become increasingly integrated into the patient journey, extending beyond treatment support to prevention, maintenance, and long-term skin health, longevity. Insights from our recent survey of dermatologists across eight major markets indicate their growing demand for science-backed products that complement aesthetic procedures, improve recovery, and sustain results over time. We also expect significant growth in personalized solutions tailored to emerging needs amongst consumer groups, particularly GLP-1 users or peri/menopausal women seeking support for skin elasticity, firmness, and healthy aging. Advances in biotechnology, regenerative ingredients, and precision skincare will create new opportunities.
How are consumer trends and insights shaping these trends?
[CB]: Consumer expectations are a major driver of innovation in this category. Today's consumers are highly informed, actively researching ingredients and looking for transparency, safety, and substantiated claims before making purchasing decisions.
There is growing demand for products that address concerns such as sensitive skin, barrier protection, healthy aging, and overall skin wellness. Consumers increasingly value dermatologist recommendations, clinical testing, and visible results. At the same time, they are unwilling to compromise on product aesthetics or user experience.
As a result, brands are developing formulations that combine scientific credibility with appealing textures, elegant formulations, and clear performance benefits, helping bridge the gap between beauty and skincare therapy.
[HE]: Consumers are already comfortable with regimen-based beauty, as seen in the popularity of Korean skin care and product layering. Chronotherapy builds on that behavior by giving each step a clearer biological purpose. Instead of simply adding more products, consumers can use the right function at the right time.
Consumers are also seeking products that feel credible, dermatologist-aligned and easy to understand. Clear day-and-night positioning can make complex science more accessible while helping brands differentiate crowded portfolios.
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What are the main challenges in this space? Where are the opportunities to innovate?
[PD]: This shift is redefining what "proof" means in the cosmetic industry. It's no longer enough to demonstrate efficacy against a placebo; brands now want ingredients benchmarked head-to-head against the procedures they're meant to mimic or support. That demands a new generation of clinical protocols, with comparative trials and endpoints that speak the same language as dermatologists and aesthetic practitioners.
Speed of efficacy is also becoming a decisive purchasing factor, with visible improvements expected within as little as seven days. This creates significant opportunities for highly concentrated active ingredients, optimized delivery systems, and next-generation peptides capable of producing rapid and visible biological effects.
[GM/KB]: One of the biggest challenges is meeting the growing demand for clinically proven, visible results in an increasingly complex ecosystem. Today, innovation is no longer limited to supporting dermatological procedures; it must also consider a rapidly expanding landscape of professional and at-home devices, from lasers and radiofrequency treatments to LED masks and microcurrent technologies. Each device activates distinct biological pathways, creating both complexity and opportunity for ingredient developers. The next frontier will be designing actives that work synergistically across these mechanisms to deliver unprecedented performance. Those who can bridge biotechnology, skin biology, and device compatibility will unlock the most meaningful innovations in dermocosmetics.
