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Beyond Cleansing: Turning Rinse-off Products into Active Skin Care

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Cleansing comes with an inherent contradiction. A cleanser needs to remove unwanted material from skin effectively, yet the same mechanisms that enable cleansing can also affect components essential to the skin barrier. At the same time, consumers increasingly see cleansing as the first step of skin care and expect more than simply clean skin.

For formulators, this creates a demanding brief: develop rinse-off products that cleanse effectively while also supporting skin condition. And there is another fundamental challenge—the contact time is short. An active ingredient in a cleanser, body wash or shampoo has only a limited window in which to make a meaningful difference.

Can an active really deliver measurable skin benefits under these conditions?

Three new placebo-controlled in vivo studies with SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) provide evidence that it can. SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) (INCI: Water, Phragmites Communis Extract, Poria Cocos Extract) is an established cosmetic active known for supporting skin barrier function and helping soothe stressed, uncomfortable skin. Its latest clinical evaluation puts these properties to the test in rinse-off applications for the face, challenged skin and scalp.

In a two-week facial cleansing study, a simple SLES-based face wash containing just 1% SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) led to a statistically significant reduction in facial redness, while the placebo showed no improvement. Importantly, the benefits were also perceived by the volunteers: compared with placebo, more users reported less itching and irritation, greater comfort and less perceived dryness.

A second study raised the bar considerably. Skin was challenged using a 24-hour occlusive SLS patch before being washed twice daily with either a placebo formulation or the same formulation containing 3% SyriCalm™ CLR (PC). While redness continued to develop with the placebo, the formulation containing SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) clearly dampened the development of redness and supported the visible normalization of redness. Volunteers also perceived immediate improvements in irritation, sensitivity, stinging and skin smoothness.

Figure 1: 3% SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) clearly reduces skin redness after challenged using a 24-hour occlusive SLS patch.

The third study took rinse-off efficacy to the scalp. After four weeks of shampoo use, the placebo caused a statistically significant reduction in scalp hydration. With 1% SyriCalm™ CLR (PC), however, no significant decrease occurred. Visual assessment supported the instrumental findings, while users additionally perceived a calmer, soothed and less tight scalp.

Together, these studies challenge the assumption that short contact time necessarily limits meaningful efficacy. Across three distinct rinse-off applications, SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) delivered measurable as well as perceivable benefits.

For formulators, this opens an opportunity to rethink cleansing: not simply as the removal step before care begins, but as a product category in which care can begin.


 

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