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Method/Process
Untouched, 'Primitive' Microbiome Sets the Skin Health Benchmark
As it turns out, on skin, the more "bugs," the better; and cosmetics could be negatively affecting their diversity. New research from the UK compared microbiomes to set a "healthy skin standard," against which the effects of products can be measured, in the future.
Skin Care
[in-cosmetics Global] Seppic’s Sublime Subligana
Seppic is helping change the skin care game with its latest ingredient launch, benefitting skin that is prone to acne. The ingredient has various perks and was tested in vivo to prove its efficacy.
Skin Care
More Than Skin Deep
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and Karl Laden, Ph.D.,
Cosmetics & Toiletries
advisor, throughout a number of years has developed an ode to individuals and formulators working in the industry.
Method/Process
Depth Perception: FTIR Reveals Devices Deliver Actives and Hydration Deeper
The deposition, delivery and penetration of actives are key to the success of skin care products and consequential to their efficacy. This paper explores ATR-FTIR imaging to compare the penetration of actives into skin via two application methods and their impact on skin hydration.
Skin Care
Age with Grace
Silab launched a patented purified active ingredient, rich in oligosaccharides from the Bulgarian rose (
Rosa damascena
), to help women age gracefully.
Regional
3 Skin Sensitization Tests to Meet the EU Mandate
The EU Cosmetics Regulation requires skin sensitization to be determined through non-animal methods. Here, the pathways for skin sensitization are reviewed, three non-animal tests are described in brief, and their combination with one another, followed by human assessment, are explored.
Skin Care
Say goodbye to age spots for brighter radiance
GenoWhiteTM (INCI: Acetyl glycyl β-alanine), an advanced whitening peptide in pure powder form (≥99%), is clinically proven to impart outstanding spot-correcting and skin tone evening effects in just 14 days.
Safety/Stability
Exposing Ingredient Exposure: It's Better Than We Thought
Cosmetovigilance is at the forefront of the industry's mind and is deeply rooted in testing ingredient safety. In relation, a new paper explores the aggregated exposure of consumers to given ingredients, with interesting results.
Actives
An Eye for Radiance
For individuals looking to redesign their eye contour to look more youthful and radiant, GATTEFOSSÉ plans on featuring its latest ingredient to reduce wrinkles at in-cosmetics Global in April 2017.
Method/Process
Soft-focus for the Selfie-obsessed: Eye Tracking to Improve Color Formula Development
In cosmetics, soft focus refers to the blurring of light to immediately correct the appearance of wrinkles and skin imperfections. This parameter can be affected by the refractive index of the emollients used, as well as formula volatility and the dispersion of fillers. The use of eye tracking, described here, can help the formulator quickly select the best-performing formulas.
Natural/Sustainable
Antioxidants in a Nutshell—Pistachio, to be Precise
Researchers from Tufts University in Boston had a nutty idea: What if pistachios could provide skin benefits? As it turns out, this wasn't such a tough nut to crack.
Literature/Data
Telomere Rejuvenation Stops the Clock on Aging
Scientists may have found a way reverse signs of aging through chromosomes. In vivo tissue reprogramming was found to lengthen telomeres, a telltale sign of cell rejuvenation.
Regional
Bypassing Adverse Skin Pathways: EU Rules for Cosmetics Tox Testing
Skin sensitization is one of the critical endpoints used to assess cosmetic ingredient safety, as highlighted in the EU regulation. Considerations for non-animal skin sensitization testing are discussed here.
Literature/Data
Turn Back Time: New Findings Suggest Science Could Potentially Reverse the Signs of Aging
It may finally be possible to turn back the clock. Using cellular reprogramming, scientists at the Salk Institute have found a way to reverse signs of aging.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Skin Barrier Impaired? Two 'TEWLs' to Tell
It has been proposed that topical treatment using linoleic acid can repair defective barrier function in damaged skin. The present article tests this theory and compares the results using two types of TEWL measurements: open and closed chamber.
Method/Process
New Partnership Centers on Cannabinoid Extracts For Cosmetics
Aurora Cannabis Inc. and Radient Technologies Inc. announced they have signed a memorandum of understanding, which focuses on the joint development and commercialization of superior and standardized cannabinoid extracts.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Syncing Up with Consumers
P&G inventors are feelin' it—circadian rhythm. That's why they're investigating methods to find cosmetic actives to go with consumers' flow.
Event Coverage
[video] That's a Wrap: Top News This Week from
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Essential oils, farnesene chemistry, underarm microbe transplantation, visualizing pheomelanin, layering in P&G and Beauty Blend patents, nanogels for delivery and the effects of lip tint application...if you missed this week's news, you missed out! Check out our video re-cap.
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