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Quantifying Visual Aspects of Hair

Quantitive claims regarding hair care can be questioned if the results and approaches do not equate to real life occurrences. This article highlights ongoing research efforts that aim to improve our understanding of visual evaluations of hair.

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Judgment Stands: Emollient Profiling Proven Consistent Over Time

Previously, the “Oil Sensory Qualification” test was outlined to quickly evaluate the sensory properties of raw materials in formulas. As a follow-up, this article describes the further development and validation of this test for consistency over time.

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'Behind the Gloss'—Multiple Angles Reveal New Soft-focus Insights

Described here is a novel method to investigate the soft-focus effects of powders. It utilizes a handheld, multi-angle spectrophotometer to capture reflectance spectra at various observation angles. Results showed variances in results taken in the trans or “behind the gloss” plane, indicating which powders provide the best light-scattering capabilities.

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Good Vibrations: Spectroscopic Imaging to Visualize the Delivery of Actives

Understanding how actives are delivered is essential to product development and to provide scientific data in support of a product’s efficacy. Vibrational imaging spectroscopy is shown here to enable the visualization of the penetration of cosmetic actives into skin, hair and nails.

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Lonza Bioactive Battles Blue Light Damage

This functional ingredient was created to protect skin from the visible effects of blue light and pollution, powered by fermentation and Chinese lantern fruit.

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Quantifying Well Aging: A Mathematical Sketch to Predict Age

There is no biological evidence to explain why some individuals look older or younger than they really are. This work sought to quantify the cutaneous characteristics of well aging based on focus group input, word clouds, biometric measurements and more.

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SGS Makes Disruptor Detection Easy

Finished formulas no longer need the full lab workup to confirm the presence or absence of estrogenic disruptors.

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Henkel Phenion Model Allows 3D Raw Material Testing

The model can be utilized in Henkel's 3D Skin Comet Assay to investigate the potential genotoxicity of raw materials.

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Animal-free Test Detects CLP 1A and 1B Allergens with High Accuracy

A new animal-alternative, biomarker-based in vitro test from SensaGen has been shown to successfully identify and classify CLP Class 1A and 1B chemical sensitizers with 82% accuracy.

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Kunming Institute Brands Dendrobium with Dr. Plant, Uncovers Milkweed's Potential

Researchers at The Kunming Institute of Botany in China have uncovered natural compounds with real skin care potential. While Dr. Plant teamed up to bring dendrobium to market, new findings in milkweed present brands new opportunities.

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What's Next: Cosmetics & Toiletries 2019 Calendar and Call for Papers

In 2019, Cosmetics & Toiletries looks to you for insights on skin radiance, anti-pollution, hair repair, skin sagging, microbiome, bespoke beauty and more. Announcing our new editorial calendar—submit now!

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Comparatively Speaking: Standard vs. Quantum-level Research

If you've ever conducted an experiment and could not explain the results, it could be due to hidden variables. This leads to what's referred to as quantum-level research, which is described by Nava Dayan, Ph.D., in this edition of "Comparatively Speaking."

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Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part II: Cultures, Growth Media, Reagents and Testing

This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part 1 covered personnel, facilities and equipment, test materials and procedures, and documentation. Part 2 addresses microbial cultures and growth media, biochemical reagents, test procedures and more.

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Q&A: How Do Conventional and Accelerated Preservative Tests Compare?

"How do accelerated and conventional preservative testing compare? What can each measure?" This reader inquiry led us to John Yablonski, of BioControl, who provided the following answer.

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Ones to Watch: Hailey Kim

Our "Ones to Watch" series features up-and-comers in and around our industry who have limited experience but unlimited potential. Here, meet Hailey Kim, of Henkel Beauty Care Hair.

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Stroke of Genius: Successive Combing Force Yields Realistic Conditioning Results

Combing tests are widely used to characterize the conditioning performance of products at one snapshot in time. A successive combing force device was designed to more realistically simulate the entire shampooing and conditioning process. Here, the authors put it to the test.

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Body Talk: Defining Volume, A Technical Dissertation on Hair Body and Volume

Consumer definitions of hair volume and body differ from their scientific counterparts, while both remain vague. This column discusses challenges concerning the study of hair volume and body, including the influences of hair coloring and styling.

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Gattefossé and Ambiotis Uncover Inflamm'aging Insights

Inflammation is a natural defense but when left unresolved, it can negatively impact the skin and contribute to aging. Gattefossé and Ambiotis teamed up to explore these mechanisms.