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Efficacy
Could Bakuchiol Be Retinol's Match?
Anti-agers may have a new play in the wrinkle-reduction game. Bakuchiol was shown in a recent study to match the established benefits of retinol.
Literature/Data
[podcast] Author Commentary: Estelle Loing, Ph.D., on Safeguarding Squalene
Estelle Loing, Ph.D., global R&D director for IFF/Lucas Meyer, authored a new article about protecting squalene from pollution-initiated oxidation. In this podcast, she explains the inspiration for this work.
Testing
Fighting AGEs Formation: Upcycled Artichoke Inhibits Glycation, Increases Skin Firmness
Upcycling organic waste into cosmetics has been of interest for the growing sustainability trend—and artichoke, in particular, demonstrates anti-aging activities. Described herein is the development of an upcycled artichoke byproduct, which was tested for effects on skin glycation and elasticity.
Natural/Sustainable
Patent Pick: Plant Extracts Treat the Root Cause of Aging
'Rooted' in a new solution to extend cell longevity and delay aging are plant extracts including black cohosh, Valerian, ginkgo biloba, celery seed, white willow and passion flower, according to these inventors.
Nutricosmetics
Nutraceuticals Benefit Hair Wellness and Growth
A recent review published in
Nutrients
explored nutraceuticals to benefit hair wellness and growth especially in the context of endocrine therapy-induced hair loss in breast cancer patients.
Claims/Labeling
Is ‘Anti-pollution’ Just a Ruse?
Remember "naturals?" Where did they lead us? In some cases, to benefit-infused natural products but in others, to greenwashing and chemical-free claims. Enter anti-pollution.
Efficacy
Tomatoes Linked to Decreased Skin Cancer Risk
Tomatoes may be the future of skin cancer prevention, according to new research in
Scientific Reports
. A study found that the carotenoids in tomatoes have the potential to protect against UV light.
Literature/Data
Sytheon Publishes on Synastol TC’s Dermal Expression Responses
The results of Sytheon findings on the dermal expression responses of its Synastol TC ingredient have been published in the
European Journal of Dermatology
.
Literature/Data
Sourcing and Using Maca and Suma Roots
In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.
Efficacy
Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging
In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.
Literature/Data
Chrysanthemum Blend Inhibits UVA Damage Post Exposure
Recent work published by Amway and Zen-Bio Inc. researchers shows that a chrysanthemum extract and ascorbic acid-2-glucoside blend reduces CPD production in melanocytes hours after UVA exposure.
Literature/Data
P&G Research Shows Reducing Scalp Stress Improves Hair Anchoring
P&G Beauty's KeepItAnchored hair loss brand has published a series of studies finding that controlling oxidative stress in the scalp reduces hair loss.
Efficacy
Terminalia Chebula
for Preventive and Restorative Anti-aging Benefits*
This paper examines a tannin-enriched
Terminalia chebula
extract. Discussed are its mechanisms for preventative and restorative anti-aging effects, and skin pigmentation control. A pilot clinical study further confirms the extract’s bioactivity to reduce wrinkles and pigmentation. Improvements in yellowish skin tones also were observed, likely due to glycation reversal.
Magazine
Brown Seaweed Ferment Propagates UV Damage Protection for Skin
To prevent and repair UV-induced skin damage, a sustainable ingredient was developed from
Sargassum vulgare
, a brown seaweed that naturally evolved phlorotannins to defend against UV damage.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Literature/Data
Firing Up the Cannabinoid Cosmetics Debate at SCC Annual
Cannabinoids have fired up great interest (and to some extent, alarm) from the cosmetics industry, both for their broad potential but also their regulatory status. During the recent SCC Annual Meeting, a few presenters shared what the science says about these potent actives.
Sun Care
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part II, Application
Avobenzone is a widely used organic UV filter. Its dynamic nature and unique properties are responsible for its widespread use and forms. This second in a two-part series considers avobenzone’s behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas; part one reviewed its characteristics and behavior in solvents.
Actives
Old Meets New: Facial Mapping and TCM to Reach Booming Markets
Several ingredient examples from Traditional Chinese Medicine folklore are now validated by modern science. This article explores their potential for the aspirational Chinese market and considers how techniques such as facial-mapping demonstrate their efficacy.
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