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Literature/Data
Safeguarding Squalene: Lemon Myrtle Antioxidant for Pollution Protection and Oleostasis
Squalene becomes easily oxidized when exposed to pollution and UV radiation, which promotes skin inflammation, the production of poor-quality sebum, comedogenesis and wrinkling. Lemon myrtle leaf extract neutralizes squalene oxidation and can protect all ethnic skin types from environmentally induced oily skin, restoring oleostasis.
Testing
Omni Antioxidant: Acetyl Zingerone Scavenges/Quenches Reactive Species, Selectively Chelates Iron
Daily exposure to environmental stress keeps skin under a persistent burden from excess ROS. This drives premature skin aging. The present article explores the multiple effects of a single ingredient, acetyl zingerone, to proactively manage excess ROS production via chemical and physical paths.
Literature/Data
Lauder Findings on Sirtuins, Stress and Eucalyptus
New findings highlight the importance of sirtuins in skin cell activity, how they relate to environmental signals and circadian rhythm, plus the antioxidant efficacy of eucalyptus.
Natural/Sustainable
Planting Ideas: Upcycled Rubber Seed Offers a Renewable Cosmetic Ingredient
The sustainable utilization of by-products from the para rubber production industry is presented here for cosmetics. Experiments confirmed the safety of para rubber seed oil, in addition to antioxidant and skin-lightening efficacies.
Color Cosmetics
Leveling Up: Passion Fruit Drives Color Cosmetics Into New Dimensions
Passion fruit seed extract is shown to exhibit antioxidant, skin whitening and sun protection capabilities in color cosmetics. This novel, natural and sustainable source for cosmetic actives demonstrates a near totality of claims for formulators and marketers.
Testing
Securing Skin: Polysaccharides Deliver Anti-pollution Protection
The present work tests the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cosmetic polysaccharides for anti-pollution benefits. Air pollution is rising and can negatively impact skin. As such, anti-pollution cosmetics are trending.
Efficacy
Melatonin: An Ancient Protector for Modern Skin Care
Melatonin evolved in response to ROS exposure throughout the ages as an innate defense for organisms to protect themselves. Due to its anti-inflammatory and protective properties, melatonin is being used more often in skin care, and several assays can demonstrate its efficacy.
Efficacy
Shrinking Pores at Their Core: Gallic Acid Derivate Controls ROS and Sebum Factors
This study proposes a unique molecule derived from gallic acid to prevent enlarged and clogged facial pores. The ingredient is partly activated by the microbiome and protects against oxidative stress and excess sebum—two key factors at the core of enlarged pores.
Anti-aging/Face
Anti-aging Safely: Bakuchiol for Skin-building Benefits
"Bakuchiol being non-irritating, as opposed to retinoic acid (which can cause irritation), is really the differentiating factor and what’s cause for excitement with this study."
Testing
Fighting AGEs Formation: Upcycled Artichoke Inhibits Glycation, Increases Skin Firmness
Upcycling organic waste into cosmetics has been of interest for the growing sustainability trend—and artichoke, in particular, demonstrates anti-aging activities. Described herein is the development of an upcycled artichoke byproduct, which was tested for effects on skin glycation and elasticity.
Natural/Sustainable
Patent Pick: Plant Extracts Treat the Root Cause of Aging
'Rooted' in a new solution to extend cell longevity and delay aging are plant extracts including black cohosh, Valerian, ginkgo biloba, celery seed, white willow and passion flower, according to these inventors.
Claims/Labeling
Is ‘Anti-pollution’ Just a Ruse?
Remember "naturals?" Where did they lead us? In some cases, to benefit-infused natural products but in others, to greenwashing and chemical-free claims. Enter anti-pollution.
Literature/Data
Sourcing and Using Maca and Suma Roots
In recent years, interest in sourcing plant roots as active ingredients for cosmetic use has grown tremendously. Roots such as maca and suma are rich in secondary metabolites and, as described here, can have specific actions on skin to increase its vitality and response to environmental stresses.
Efficacy
Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging
In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.
Efficacy
Terminalia Chebula
for Preventive and Restorative Anti-aging Benefits*
This paper examines a tannin-enriched
Terminalia chebula
extract. Discussed are its mechanisms for preventative and restorative anti-aging effects, and skin pigmentation control. A pilot clinical study further confirms the extract’s bioactivity to reduce wrinkles and pigmentation. Improvements in yellowish skin tones also were observed, likely due to glycation reversal.
Magazine
Brown Seaweed Ferment Propagates UV Damage Protection for Skin
To prevent and repair UV-induced skin damage, a sustainable ingredient was developed from
Sargassum vulgare
, a brown seaweed that naturally evolved phlorotannins to defend against UV damage.
Method/Process
Bio + Chemo Guidance Uncover New Benefits in Known Naturals:
Murraya Koenigii
Extract Case Study
Murraya koenigii
extracts derived via various techniques were compared. One developed through chem- and bio-guidance paired with a natural deep eutectic technology uncovered lesser-known efficacies, leading to a natural active to boost elastin synthesis.
Sun Care
In Light of Exposure: Understanding Avobenzone Part II, Application
Avobenzone is a widely used organic UV filter. Its dynamic nature and unique properties are responsible for its widespread use and forms. This second in a two-part series considers avobenzone’s behavior with other sunscreens and in formulas; part one reviewed its characteristics and behavior in solvents.
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