Sytheon has published a study in the European Journal of Dermatology, profiling dermal expression responses to a standardized tannin-enriched Terminalia chebula fruit extract—the company’s Synastol TC (INCI: Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract) ingredient.

Related: Terminalia Chebula for Preventive and Restorative Anti-aging Benefits*

Synastol TC is a water-soluble extract that contains > 60% hydrolyzable tannins including chebulinic and chebulagic acids. Both components provide long-lasting antioxidant properties and work through biological mechanisms to provide preventative and restorative anti-aging and skin-toning benefits.

As the paper describes, genome-wide expression responses to Synastol TC were investigated in three-dimensional reconstituted human skin tissues through microarray studies. The ingredient’s responses were opposite to those observed in cells exposed to oxidative stress, solar-simulated UV radiation and wounding. Increased genetic expressions were observed in relation to water homeostasis, skin barrier establishment, blood vessel development and circadian rhythms, in comparison with tissues treated with water. 

The key keratinocyte (KC) differentiation makers FLG and LOR and the hydration marker AQP9 were further confirmed at mRNA and protein levels. Consistent with these results, the ingredient increased the expression of transcription factors regulating KC differentiation (FOS, GHRL3, PPARG), as well as key genes involved in skin architecture, such as collagens (COL1A1, COL1A2, COL5A1, COL6A6, COL6A3, COL6A1), proteoglycans (PRELP, OGN) and other matrisomes. 

In relation, recent studies interestingly have shown that collagen type VI plays a dual role in extracellular matrix (ECM) functions and has innate immune functions with activity against S. aureus, S. pneumonia, E. coli and P. aeruginosa. In the present work, in separate assays, the ingredient also inhibited MMP enzymes (MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3, MMP-9, MMP-12).

Overall, the results from these studies validated that Synastol TC stimulates positive modifications within the skin that are not superficial but deep and multi-targeted. The combined targeting of several endpoints provides better chances of delivering true benefits in skin, in sharp contrast to traditional one-product, one-target approaches.

For more information, contact Sytheon.