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Section: Research > Literature/Data

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[podcast] Author Commentary: Fabio Apone, Ph.D., on Cold Stress Skin Damage

The mechanisms of cold stress damage in skin are a new focus for cosmetics research. In his January 2018 article, Fabio Apone, Ph.D., explains these mechanisms; in relation, in this Author Commentary podcast, he shares what drove his team’s interest in this area and the next steps. Listen now!

The combination can be used to stably suspend actives for products to decrease under-eye puffiness and/or crepiness and improve skin feel.

Patent Pick: Mary Kay Finds Clay/Gum Combo Suspends Actives Stably

Mary Kay inventors identified a combination of attapulgite clay, polyurethane-39 and acacia gum-encapsulated xanthan gum can suspend actives stably, such as at high pH and during freeze/thaw cycles, in a topical "instant effect eye cream" formula.

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Patent Pick: Mary Kay Finds Zinc Oxide Complexes Improve Irritation, Stability

Mary Kay Inc. inventors have filed a patent on a complex formed by a zinc oxide molecule and a molecule comprising an acidic hydrogen to improve the stability and irritation potential of various skin care treatments.

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Come for the Education, Stay for the Celebration: Beauty Accelerate x C&T Allē Awards

March 6, 2024, Beauty Accelerate will play host to the exclusive C&T Allē Awards dinner honoring beauty innovation across the product development process. Come for the education, stay for the celebration — and rub elbows with industry stars!

Culture Shift: Rethinking the Role of Commensal Microflora of the Skin in Cosmetic Formulation

Much like bacteria in the gut, the skin’s microbiome plays an important role in skin health by excluding harmful transients and educating the immune system. The application of pre- and probiotic concepts in cosmetics presents a novel approach. While formulation with probiotics may pose challenges, the use of prebiotics and bacterial lysates, discussed here, may be a viable alternative.

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[podcast] How Nutrition Translates to Beauty, Part III: Commercial Successes and Stumbling Blocks

Do drinkable collagen and dark chocolate nutricosmetic products really help skin? This five-part podcast series with Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D., and Alan Dattner, M.D., considers the impact of nutrition on beauty. Here, part III in our series explores successes and stumbling blocks to developing commercial products.

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Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part II: Cultures, Growth Media, Reagents and Testing

This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part 1 covered personnel, facilities and equipment, test materials and procedures, and documentation. Part 2 addresses microbial cultures and growth media, biochemical reagents, test procedures and more.

Patent Picks—Autophagy for Skin, Hair Color; Luster Pigment; Depigmenting Compounds and More in Color and Coloration

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions that relate to color cosmetics and skin coloration, including autophagy to regulate skin and hair color, layered and luster pigments for cosmetics, mineral powder with high dispersion, approaches for depigmenting and evening out skin tone, and more.

'All participants had a physical count of their hair by a blinded clinician at baseline, 12 and 24 weeks, and the results were also confirmed with blinded photo-grading,' says Jay Small, a trichologist and cofounder of Arey. 'There was a statistical significance between active and placebo groups at both the 12 and 24 week mark.'

Arey's 'The System' Cuts Gray Hair Growth and Boosts Repigmentation by Combatting Canities: New Clinicals

"Vitamin and mineral deficiency, along with oxidative stress from factors like sun and chemical exposure, contribute to hair losing pigment and turning gray," says Jay Small, a trichologist and cofounder of Arey.

Patent Picks—Phosphate Derivatives, Comfort Soap Cleanser, Producting Hyaluronic Acid, Foamable Moisturization and More on Moisturization

Chosen biweekly for their relevance to personal care, Patent Picks are taken from publicly available sources. This edition, chosen by Katie Anderson (Schaefer), associate editor of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, features patents related to moisturization and conditioning of hair and skin.

Patent Picks—Silicone Effects Booster, Sweat-absorbing Complex, Coated Nanoparticles, Polysaccharide Extender and Other Aids for Product Efficacy

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions that aid in formulating to improve product efficacy; including a sweat-absorbing complex for deodorant, coated nanoparticles to localize thermal treatments, a complex to improve adhesion in fillers, a non-silicone means to boost silicone effects, and more.

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Study Shows How Eczema is Genetic

A study published in Genome Biology and Evolution found that atopic dermatitis (eczema) is likely to hitchhike a ride with mutated hornerin and make the skin disease genetic.

Exploring the Depths of Percutaneous Penetration

The Perspectives in Percutaneous Penetration (PPP) conference recently was held at the Palais des Congrès de La Grande Motte. Following are some highlights most relevant to the cosmetics and personal care industry.

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Rubbing Shoulders with Massage for Improved Penetration

Rubbing is a common application method for topical products, though evidence of its efficacy remains scarce. The present article reviews research in support of this application theory. It also identifies what investigation is still needed.

Cationic Peptides and Cell Penetration

Controversy surrounds how certain cationic peptides enter the cell.

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Study of Twins Correlates Aging with Genetics

While up to 40% of aging-related changes in skin are due to non-genetic factors, a recent study found a high correlation between the photodamage scores among both monozygotic (identical) and dizygotic (fraternal) twins.

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Don’t Count On Genetics, Sunscreens are the Best Bet

In a podcast with P&G scientists Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. and Rosemarie Osborne, Ph.D., Cosmetics & Toiletries learned about genetic studies in support of the Olay brand, and more. Following is an excerpt.

Skin Penetration of EGCG, Quercetin Examined

A recent study in Skin Pharmacoloy and Physiology examined the delivery of epigallocatechin-3-gallate and quercetin from green tea and Ginkgo biloba extracts into the skin from cosmetic formulations.

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