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Section: Testing

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Managing Adversities: Atopic Dermatitis and the Microbiome

The AD process and S. aureus provide targets for intervention, which can be explored in vitro as described here. Although not causative, there is a strong correlation between the severity of AD and density of S. aureus in the microbiome.

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Industry Insight: Microbiome Interactions and Skin Health

New research from Amway and Microbiome Insights underlines the connections between skin health and the microbiome. In our exclusive two-part podcast series, Greg Hillebrand, Ph.D., and Malcolm Kendall share what they've learned; following is an excerpt.

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Puberty and Parabens: New Study Cites 'Risk'

Teen girls may be at particular risk to chemicals such as parabens and triclosan used in cosmetics and personal care formulations, a study finds. However, this study, like many others is up for debate.

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Destruction and Creation Harmonize at C&T Summit

“Analysis, synthesis, creation and destruction” was the secret recipe behind keynote speaker Jeffrey Baxter’s guide to unconventional thinking for problem-solving during the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit.

CIDP Adds Japanese and Chinese Test Subjects

The testing company Centre International de Developpement Pharmaceutique (CIDP) announced it has added Chinese and Japanese panelists to its test panel options.

REACH and In Vitro Alternatives: Phototoxicity Testing

This is the third column in a continuing discussion regarding the new REACH regulations and their impact on chemical testing. The first appeared in December 2007 and discussed dermal corrosive potential testing; the second, in February 2008, covered dermal irritancy potential testing.

Quantifying Sunscreens and Preservatives in Cosmetic Products

The authors propose and validate an HPLC method for simultaneous quantitation of commonly used commercial sunscreen actives and preservatives in cosmetic emulsions.

Hair Ethnicity and Ellipticity: A Preliminary Study

Ethnic hair care addresses diverse fiber compositions that require unique products. This comprehensive review in hair fiber dimensions among straight, wavy and curly/coily hair serves as a basis from which product developers can design products to cater to unique hair type needs. The current study examines the ellipticity of Caucasian, Brazilian, Hispanic and African-American hair.

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Lauder Findings on Sirtuins, Stress and Eucalyptus

New findings highlight the importance of sirtuins in skin cell activity, how they relate to environmental signals and circadian rhythm, plus the antioxidant efficacy of eucalyptus.

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Measuring and Pre-selecting Functional Filler Pigments

Functional filler pigments play an important role in adjusting optical properties such as transparency and soft focus effects in cosmetics. However, their suitability for specific formulas is not apparent until time-consuming tests using many different fillers have been conducted. A new method to predetermine the soft focus effects of functional filler pigments is described here.

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A Safety, Toxicity and Irritation Testing Primer

To ensure a product’s success, especially in light of ‘clean beauty’ tenets, it must be tested for stability as well as safety and efficacy. The following primer offers an overview of key tests to perform as products are developed and prepared for launch. Click through to the digital magazine for more.

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New Exhibitors at in-cosmetics: Trade Associations and Media

Nearly 800 exhibitors will grace the in-cosmetics Global show floor this month. Where do you start? Why not the newcomers? Here, we've highlighted new entries under the "Trade Association and Media" category.

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New Exhibitors at in-cosmetics: Lab and Consulting Services

Nearly 800 exhibitors will grace the in-cosmetics Global show floor this April. This makes for an idea-rich environment, but where do you start? Why not head toward the newcomers—here, we've highlighted new exhibitors offering lab and consulting services.

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Kao and Shiseido Tackle Animal-alternative Skin Sensitization Test

Skin sensitization is neither simple nor desired, but options to test and prevent it have relied heavily on animal testing—until now, thanks to Japanese cosmetic giants Kao and Shiseido.

Evaluating Essential Oils in Cosmetics: Antioxidant Capacity and Functionality

In the present work, the antioxidant capacities of three essential oils derived from basil and thyme were evaluated using a photochemiluminescence (PCL)-based assay. In addition, since the base formulation can affect the antioxidant activity of oils contained therein, ingredient interactions within final formulations were investigated.

Quantifying Benzophenone-3 and Octyl Methoxycinnamate in Sunscreen Emulsions

The authors have validated a high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method for the quantitative determination of benzophenone- 3 and octyl methoxycinnamate present in sunscreen emulsions.

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In vitro/vivo SPF Correlation and Repeatability According to Substrate

This work evaluates the impact of three different substrates on in vitro SPF measurements, and defines experimental conditions to improve their correlation with in vivo values. Evaluations of 32 products, shown here, led the authors to conclude that molded substrates improved repeatability and correlation with in vivo SPF values.

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Editor's Note: A Peek into Bath and Shower Care

This month, we peek into the bath/shower scene—in a wholesome way, with a focus on issues fundamental to bath and body care. From sensory experiences, and cleansing and protecting skin, to reducing shine and acne, and more. We even spritz in a fragrance refresher.

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