And the Winners Are … C&T Presents the 2024 Allē Awards and Merits

Attendees of the awards dinner toasted all the finalists, celebrating beauty innovation. Read on to see who came out on top.
Attendees of the awards dinner toasted all the finalists, celebrating beauty innovation. Read on to see who came out on top.

See our May 2024 full coverage celebrating the Allēs

Beauty innovators lined the red carpet and graced the stage under the limelight during the exclusive 2024 Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) Allē Awards celebration dinner, held on March 6, 2024, at the Biltmore Hotel in Los Angeles. Presented by C&T and parent company Allured Business Media, the Allē Awards bring behind-the-scenes ingenuity in cosmetics and personal care R&D into the spotlight.

In total, 39 Allēs were awarded to the winners, along with 41 Merits. The Allēs honor the top-rated entries in each category having the highest total across all attributes, whereas Merits recognize the runners up for a single attribute for which they rated highest. Honorees comprised ingredient suppliers, finished product manufacturers, test method/tool designers, digital tech developers and others.

See archived: Here They Are: Congratulations to the Winners of the 2022 C&T Allēs

Rachel Grabenhofer, managing scientific editor of C&T, shared hers and the brand’s vision for the awards during opening remarks at the awards dinner: “The C&T Allē Awards … have been our brand’s vision for many years. In 2022, C&T and its parent company, Allured Business Media, made the ‘Allēs’ a reality. … The goal was to bring beauty innovators from behind-the-scenes and into the spotlight to honor their ingenuity and scientific acumen that enables the creation of products consumers love.”

She added, “To share a fun fact - some have referred to the Allēs as the ‘Oscars’ of beauty innovation, … so I think it’s serendipitous that we’re here at the Biltmore, which actually hosted the 1932 Academy Awards (or ‘Oscars’), welcoming Shirley Temple and Walt Disney. But YOU are the stars of cosmetic science.”

Attendees joined her in a toast celebrating all the finalists of the 2024 Allēs, followed by dinner – and finally, the announcement of the winners. Below is a list of who came out on top, including edited excerpts from judges’ comments (where possible), and a nod to the Merit recipients. Congratulations!

Stay tuned for our announcement when the 2025 C&T Allē Awards portal opens in the coming weeks. Watch for it on our Awards Page and in our newsletters!

Winners - Actives

See the full descriptions here.

Most Significant Anti-aging Active – Senevisium, SILAB

This unique active ingredient offers a cutting-edge approach to anti-aging skin care, focusing on the senescent cell, with supportive data and a clear mechanism of action. This should appeal especially to well-informed consumers worldwide.

Most Significant Sun/Light Protection Active - EssentiaTein Protect, TRI-K

With hair being exposed to external pollutants and the environment, this blend is a good concept – backed by in vitro proof of concept studies. High marks for the amazing work on sustainability and sourcing materials from upcycled ingredients.

Most Significant Hair & Scalp Care Active - Fision HydraTress, TRI-K

This combination of known ingredients allows hair care companies to make a marketing story of several ingredients without using five ingredients separately. I appreciate the proof-of-concept studies on hair tresses with the lower use level of 1%. The performance of the active is well-validated.

Most Significant Microbiome-focused Active – Holobiosys, Greentech

The concept of treating the holobiont rather than its parts is a move in the right direction, and the use of an extract from traditional medical plants is appealing.

Most Significant Natural/Bio-derived Active - Ultimate Moisturizer Evermoist AGG-50, Sino Lion USA

Very well-researched and efficacious, with detailed in vitro studies showing the effectiveness of 2-α-GG. There is substantial data showing the application, stability and safety of the active. This active has huge potential in the skin care industry.

Most Significant Skin Care Active - Mel[o]stem, Sederma

The claim of improving the appearance of "white spots" is new and opens the door to new concepts and applications in the industry. It is a game-changer for the skin care industry … This ingredient can be highly useful for multicultural skin care in users where hyperpigmentation is a major concern.

Most Significant Toiletries/Oral Care Active – Milltect, Ichimaru Pharcos Co. Ltd.

The concept and science are good and could have a great impact on oral care. Well-designed proof of efficacy experiments with proper controls and CPC as the “gold standard’ current best approach.

Most Significant Color Cosmetic Base Ingredient - Elara Luxe Pigments, DayGlo Color Corp.

This well-crafted/presented technical innovation and product concept are well-articulated, documented and certified. It is impressive to have vegan, kosher, halal and biodegradable in a vibrant technology. It was nice to see, with the regulation aspect, the material to be microplastic-free.

Winners - Base Ingredients

See the full descriptions here.

Most Significant Natural/Bio-derived Base Ingredient - Kelcosens Citrus Fiber, CP Kelco

New materials of natural origin and with sustainable concepts will always be interesting as alternatives to polymers and synthetic materials. I just love this ingredient. The upcycling and new manner to make products is incredible. Emulsifier-free claim is powerful.

Most Significant Skin Care Base Ingredient - Emulpharma Mimesis, Sharon Personal Care

I appreciate all the testing performed and eco-sustainability. This is a unique emulsifying system with skin care benefit claims. It offers versatility and can be used hot or cold. I believe formulators will be interested in looking at this material – it is novel and it extends formulations to sprayable and lighter textures.

Most Significant Sun/Light Protection Base Ingredient – Lignoguard, Lignovations

The innovation is great – formulators are always looking for ways to pass and boost SPF values without increasing sunscreen filter usage; to decrease white cast; and to create a uniform film upon application. This material does check off a lot of the current needs: sustainable, made from upcycled starting materials and natural. Nice to see a natural approach and clever way to synergize SPF filters.

Most Significant Hair & Scalp Care Base Ingredient - AminoSensyl Ultra MB, Inolex

Conditioning agents like this allow brands to become more sustainable without compromising efficacy. This is a good use of natural materials to create a combination of safer alternatives to quats. Very comprehensive functional support information; very good formulation support information; and material does address the need for sustainability and eco-friendliness.

Most Significant Anti-aging Chassis/Blend (New for 2024!) - Natralipid Advanced Omega Complex, Natures Crops International

This ingredient fits really well with the trend to use sustainable natural ingredients. It can be a valuable additive to affect the aesthetics of a formula. Great to see a holistic plant-derived ingredient for higher order claims such as lines and wrinkles.

Winners - Chassis/Blends

See the full descriptions here.

Most Significant Hair & Scalp Care Chassis/Blend - Jeesperse NOLO Self-Emulsifying Powders, Vantage Personal Care

This innovation makes a strong case for sustainability with a one-pot, no heat process. Based on the additional performance additives, it can make personalization easier to manage. This material appears to be a manufacturing time saver, as well as an approach to minimize raw material inventory.

Most Significant Natural/Bio-derived Chassis/Blend - Natural Synergistic Preservative Blend, Dermegen Inc.

The industry can always use new effective, safe and "natural" broad-spectrum preservatives. It’s great to see alternatives for global performance and smart synergistic combos.

Winners - Test Method/Tool, Device and Digital Tech

See the full descriptions here.

Most Significant Testing Method/Tool - Next Gen Deo from 3D Ex vivo Sweat Model, Symrise AG

“Stinky” [in a good way], interesting and awesome! This method may have broad applications for soap, shampoo and deodorant development. I think that the method would provide a very detailed analysis of how well a material reduces body odor.

Most Significant Beauty Device - ReleGO and REVex 4D In vitro Platform, REVIVO Biosystems

This is a cutting-edge device that provides screening alternatives to permeation, safety and efficacy parameters. It is a great tool for raw material manufacturers and brands to speed up testing. The fact that you can incubate skin tissue models and control the flow of culture media to tissues and collect fractions at specific intervals can give very accurate insights; from a research perspective, this is tremendous information.

Most Significant Digital Tech – B2B - AI-driven PLM Stability Test Predictions, COPTIS

I do believe the AI [such as that implemented here] will be playing an increasing role in the formulation development process. Coptis has been a leader in automating and information-gathering for R&D.

Winners - Indie Formulas

See the full descriptions here.

Most Significant Bath & Shower Formula – Indie - Exfoliating Coconut Jelly Cube, Ross Organic, an Azelis Company

This is a good, creative innovation. It is a novel product form with natural ingredients.

Most Significant Natural/Bio-derived Formula – Indie - Earth & Body Wise GlacierMint Toothpaste, Earth & Body Wise

It's quite interesting for an oral care product to be presented with the [natural] theme.

Most Significant Anti-aging Formula – Indie - Morning Dew Vitamin C Serum, RAAIE

It’s a very interesting product and concept for innovation. A great amount of information was submitted about product sustainability, claims support and ingredients.

Most Significant Hair & Scalp Care Formula – Indie - Yobee Care Restorative ScalpMask, Yobee Care Inc.

I appreciate the level of work done on the academic side to validate balancing the micobiome using probiotics to improve skin conditions. Great to see safety claim substantiation in the pediatric population, and also the repeat insult patch testing for safety. The product seems to fill a real need.

Most Significant Microbiome-focused Formula – Indie - Overnight Recovery Mask, Roccoco Botanicals

This is an innovative product with high plant actives content. It is a relevant proposal for today’s focus on sensitive skin, with strong soothing effects.

Most Significant Toiletry/AP/Deo Formula – Indie - Hume Supernatural All Body Deodorant, Hume Supernatural

When ingredients were selected for this formulation, the skin microbiome and fragrance irritants were considered, which is appreciated. Information on safety and stability was provided in great detail. This is a novel, multifunctional AP/deo with sustainable product design in its packaging and ingredient choices.

Most Significant Skin Care Formula – Indie - Harmonia Balancing Night Cream, Stoic Beauty Inc.

This product was developed for rosacea and sensitive skin. Stability and safety testing was provided in great detail, and sustainability was considered, which is appreciated.

Winners - Mass Formulas

See the full descriptions here.

Most Significant Anti-aging Formula – Mass - Retinol 3X PLUS+ Super Serum, Shiny Brands Group

This product enhances the effects of retinol and solves problems at the same time. Interesting concept.

Most Significant Microbiome-focused Formula – Mass - Scalp Biotics Technology, Winnox Cosmeceutics

This is an interesting concept for a very focused application.

Most Significant Skin Care Formula – Mass – Azarine Niacinamide 10% + DPG Serum, PT Wahana Kosmetika Indonesia

The higher than typical concentrations of actives in this formula suggest efficacy and targeted functionality.

Most Significant Sun/Light Protection Formula – Mass – Screensaver, Innovative Beauty Group

We live in a digital world with countless hours spent on screens, so the concept for this line is essential to help defend the skin's moisture barrier against blue light.

Most Significant Toiletry/Intimate Care Formula – Mass - Actively Trying Fertility Lubricant, #LubeLife

This is a unique hero product – not common for most companies. Being in the OTC category for sexual health/lubes, its certification is very comprehensive and the product appears to meet customers’ needs for safer, sustainable lubricants. I believe consumers will respond favorably to it.

Most Significant Hair & Scalp Care Formula – Mass - Cold Process Minimalist Daily Hair Straightening Cream, SNF

This product appears to achieve great results using cold processing and with only five ingredients, none of which is silicone. It is a “win” for brands that desire performance without silicones. I love the minimalist approach; a concerted effort for great hair.

Winners - Prestige Formulas

See the full descriptions here.

Most Significant Bath & Shower Formula – Prestige - Vitamin C Body Oil, Tronque

This looks like a good product with great ingredients and good data backing.

Most Significant Hair & Scalp Care Formula – Prestige Eufora Triple Bond Repair, Eufora International

Testing clearly shows this product offers repair and strengthening benefits – issues of importance to hair care consumers. The formulation seems to align with recent trends of combining bioactive materials in a conditioning system.

Most Significant Microbiome-focused Formula – Prestige - BIOJUVE Living Biome Essentials Duo, Crown Aesthetics

This formula is based on a novel ingredient using live bacteria.

Most Significant Natural/Bio-derived Formula – Prestige – Epicutis Lipid Body Treatment, Epicutis

This body treatment with dual proprietary technologies is novel and essential for consumers seeking higher-functioning skin care products with both anti-aging and antioxidant benefits. This broadens the opportunity for use beyond the aging population. Having the EWG-verified claim is forward-thinking, as consumers go to this growing platform as a source of ingredient information.

Most Significant Nutricosmetic Formula – Prestige - Premium-Grade Collagen Formulation, Tosla d.o.o.

The novelty of this entry is its higher concentrations and odor/taste-masking methods. It provides compelling and well-documented test data.

Most Significant Skin Care Formula – Prestige - Serum 71: Past, Present & Future, Circadia

This product concept is supported by the combination of ingredients with multiple targets and multiple skin benefits. It should be effective for preventing and slowing the signs of aging, as well as treating the signs of aging – so it would be good for both young and mature women (and men).

Most Significant Sun/Light Protection Formula – Prestige - Soft Glow SPF 50+ Featuring Patented Kleair Technology, Solésence Beauty Science

This entry’s approach to protecting people and the planet is evident in the green processing methods used to produce the company’s proprietary zinc. This is the way of the future for cosmetic development. Supporting data – i.e., HEV in vitro data for blue light protection claims and ROS data for pollution claims – is a differentiating factor vs. other mineral-based products.

Most Significant Anti-aging Formula – Prestige - Copper Amino Isolate Lipid, DECIEM

This copper amino isolate technology looks interesting and promising.

Merit Recipients – Actives

Activen SA: Utility Merit, Anti-aging for XEP-716 Miniprotein

Algaktiv: Industry Impact Merit, Anti-aging for Algaktiv Collage

Arcaea: Safety Merit, Microbiome-focused for ScentARC

Bio-az: Industry Impact Merit, Microbiome-focused, for Bio-az Cosmeceutical Synbiotic

Clariant: Claims Support Merit, Skin Care for Rootness Mood+

dsm-firmenich: Safety Merit, Natural/Derived for Pepha-Tight CB

Evonik Corp.: Claims Support Merit, Natural/Bio-derived for BeautiFerm Healerine

Evonik Corp.: Novelty Merit, Skin Care for Sphinox Immulance

Givaudan Active Beauty: Safety Merit, Anti-aging for RetiLife 100% Natural Origin Retinol

H&H Group Co.: Utility Merit, Skin Care for Sadorfons

Ichimaru Pharcos Co.: Utility Merit, Natural/Bio-derived for VeganProteoglycan

Industrial Technology Research Institute: Sustainability Merit, Natural/Bio-derived for I-Proteo

Laboratoires Expanscience: Sustainability Merit, Skin Care for Epionine Bio

LipoTrue: Safety Merit, Skin Care for Poptide

LipoTrue: Sustainability Merit, Anti-aging for V/WA

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics: Sustainability Merit, Hair/Scalp Care for ReviScalp

Mibelle Biochemistry: Industry Impact Merit, Natural/Bio-derived for CALMandrin

Mibelle Biochemistry: Industry Impact Merit, Skin Care for TiMOOD

RAHN AG: Novelty Merit, Hair/Scalp Care for Hairvivine-Pro

Merit Recipients – Base Ingredients

Advancion/ANGUS Chemical Co.: Claims Support Merit, Hair/Scalp Care for DL-2AP ULTRA PC Amino Alcohol

Evonik Corp.: Safety Merit, Skin Care for Ecohance Care PS3

Oleon Health and Beauty: Industry Impact Merit, Color Cosmetics for Oleon’s Jelly Rheological Modifiers

P2 Science: Sustainability Merit, Color Cosmetics for CitroSperse Pigment Dispersions

Merit Recipient – Chassis/Blend

Sino Lion: Novel Merit, Natural/Bio-derived for Glutamix A50 Self Thickening Blend

Merit Recipients – Testing Methods/Tools, Devices and Digital Tech

Mineed Technologies: Quality Design Merit, Devices for Two-minute Detachable Microneedles

Shiny Brands Group: Industry Impact Merit, Devices for MIRAE Thermal Pro Beauty Device

Synergy Life Science, Inc.: Novelty Merit, Devices for Nebi

Winnox Cosmeceutics Sdn Bhd: Novelty Merit, Testing Method for Screen-Printed Antioxidant Sensor (SAS) Concept

Merit Recipients – Indie Formulas

Dara Kennedy: Sustainability Merit, Natural/Bio-derived for Dara Kennedy Sea Serum

goop: Industry Impact Merit, Anti-aging for Beauty Youth-Boost Peptide Serum

Integrity Ingredients Corp.: Multifunctionality Merit, Skin Care for Tinted Glow Serum

NAMA Cosmetics: Claims Support Merit, Natural/Bio-derived for NAMA Delicate Hair and Scalp Cleanser

Roccoco Botanicals: Industry Impact Merit, Toiletries/Hygiene for Charcoal Clarity Mask

Roccoco Botanicals: Claims Support Merit, Skin Care for Frangipani and Lychee Body Crème

Saint Cruz - Freshmetics: Utility Merit, Natural/Bio-derived for Freshly Made Hair and Scalp Food

You & Eye By Dr. Nicky: Novelty Merit, Skin Care for The Skinification of Lashes

Merit Recipient – Mass Formula

Winnox Cosmeceutics: Industry Impact Merit, Skin Care for Vitamin C Derivative and Resveratrol Hyperpigmentation Solution

Merit Recipients – Prestige Formulas

Linder Health: Novelty Merit, Anti-aging for HA Pep Smoothing Intensifier

OLAPLEX: Safety Merit, Hair/Scalp Care for OLAPLEX Volumizing Blow Dry Mist

RAAIE: Sustainability Merit, Anti-aging for Morning Dew Vitamin C Serum

Theraderm: Utility Merit, Anti-aging for Theraderm Brilliance Boost Pads

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