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Words from Wiechers: Cosmetic Idols

In this month's "Words from Wiechers" series, we learn that while proper branding and marketing are a prerequisite for initial success, it is the consumer experience and satisfaction that will drive resale and ultimate success of a product.

Testing Tactics in Hair: Beyond Biology—Why African Hair is Fragile*

The remarkable shape of African hair can lead to a variety of issues for the wearer. High on this list is a marked propensity for breakage, and efforts to minimize this result in unique hair-related habits and practices. This article describes recent measurement advances that shed much needed light on the reasons for these issues.

Dual Defense: Protecting and Repairing Hair Holistically, Inside and Out

Cumulative stress encountered by hair during daily grooming causes breakage and other forms of damage. This paper presents a holistic approach to protect hair from within and without by targeting the cortex and cuticle sheath. Fatigue testing and other assessments are carried out to determine efficacy.

Detecting Water Content in Deep Eutectic Solvents

Research appearing in the Journal of Molecular Liquids explores the use of ATR-IR spectroscopy to estimate the water content in natural deep eutectic solvents.

[video] Cosmetics R&D Vlog: Testing Products in a Socially Distanced Reality

In this Cosmetics R&D Vlog entry, Anne Charpentier, CEO of Skinobs, a digital platform of product testing companies, describes the impact of COVID-19 on cosmetic product testing and discusses how companies are able to move forward. Watch now.

Melatonin: An Ancient Protector for Modern Skin Care

Melatonin evolved in response to ROS exposure throughout the ages as an innate defense for organisms to protect themselves. Due to its anti-inflammatory and protective properties, melatonin is being used more often in skin care, and several assays can demonstrate its efficacy.

GARDskin Provides Animal-free Way to Guard Skin

SenzaGen and XCellR8 have recently expanded its collaboration to offer GARDskin Animal Product-free, an animal-free skin sensitization assay safety assessment for chemicals in products.

Conscientious Claims in Hair—Consumer Perception Before Formulation

The author proposes first fully developing claims that address consumer perception to simplify formulating and ensure products pass acceptance tests. The hair care industry is constantly changing, as are its product claims—the latest of which are reviewed here in the context of science vs. consumer language.

Standardizing Safety: ISO Validation and Sun Protection Tests

In addition, methods under review pertaining to sun protection are discussed. The ISO sets proposed standards and test methods for nearly every industry; its validation process is described here.

Good As Gold: Validating Alternative SPF Test Methods

This article presents alternative sunscreen test methods to the gold standard ISO 24444:2019. Options range from in vivo calibrated in silico tools and in vitro plate procedures, to a hybrid method. This discussion highlights their potential and procedures for their validation with the aim of replacing the current standard.

Is Mexico Next to Ban Animal Testing?

Recently, Mexico made the move to initiate a ban on animal testing of cosmetics. This would make it the first North American country and the 40th country worldwide to do so.

Applied DNA Sciences Files COVID-19 Assay Patent Application

Applied DNA Sciences, Inc., known to personal care for its PCR-based authentication and traceability of cosmetic, biothera­peutic and botanical materials, has filed a provisional patent for a COVID-19 diagnostic assay.

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