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Safety/Stability
SGS Makes Disruptor Detection Easy
Finished formulas no longer need the full lab workup to confirm the presence or absence of estrogenic disruptors.
Companies
Ross Introduces Versatile Paddle Blender
The new blender features touchscreen controls and an interchangeable ribbon for versatile mixing.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part II: Cultures, Growth Media, Reagents and Testing
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part 1 covered personnel, facilities and equipment, test materials and procedures, and documentation. Part 2 addresses microbial cultures and growth media, biochemical reagents, test procedures and more.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Stroke of Genius: Successive Combing Force Yields Realistic Conditioning Results
Combing tests are widely used to characterize the conditioning performance of products at one snapshot in time. A successive combing force device was designed to more realistically simulate the entire shampooing and conditioning process. Here, the authors put it to the test.
Testing
MilliporeSigma Launches Fragrance Allergen Test Calibrants
MilliporeSigma has introduced two ready-to-use certified reference material mixtures suitable for use as calibrants for the new IFRA fragrance allergen test method.
Method/Process
Scale-up Success: Untapping the Potential of Computational Fluid Dynamics
Scaling up cosmetic products to manufacturing facilities is a common cause of formulation difficulties. Computational fluid dynamics offer a means to model and troubleshoot potential problems in advance, and could become a standard tool to reduce production costs.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Is Your Microbiology Lab FDA-compliant? Part I: Personnel, Facilities and Equipment
This two-part article provides an overview of areas relevant to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) inspection of cosmetic microbiology laboratories. Part II will appear in our July 2018 edition.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Coptis Heads to in-cosmetics Global
Coptis is bringing its software solutions to in-cosmetics Global, including its Coptis Tox technology.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Testing Tactics in Skin: A View of Visible Light Protection
Blue light, in particular, may be responsible for most of the adverse skin reactions caused by visible wavelengths. This column reviews methods to screen for materials that protect against blue light but also allow its benefits to shine through.
Consumers/Market
Shiseido Tech Takes Personalization to the Exposome
How can custom skin care become more customized? Shiseido believes by plotting skin conditions in real-time as a function of environmental factors. A new smart phone-driven system does just that.
Method/Process
[podcast] Probing Deeper to Further Skin Aging Research
Johnson & Johnson can see the future—of skin aging, that is. How? Using a novel imaging technique, which Tracy Wang, Ph.D., presented at the SID meeting last April and describes in this interview. Listen now!
Sun Care
DSM Tool Sheds Light for Sun Protection Formulators
Formulators will now have an easier time modeling formula ideas for sun protection. DSM's new free digital tool, the sunscreen optimizer, was created to make sunscreen formulation more efficient.
Color Cosmetics
In the Mind's Eye: Color Science to Expand the Multicultural Palette
In recent years, the demand for multicultural cosmetics has grown, putting pressure on formulators to extend the shade range of product offerings. The present article reviews the basics of color science, pigments and formulation concepts to support developers for this segment.
Tech/Equipment/Services
[podcast] Half Megapixel Limit: A Wider Angle Will Enable Better Microbiome Care
"Tools for sampling and sequencing continue to advance," says Larry Weiss, M.D., AOBiome. "16S is the basis for which we look at phylogenies ... [but] do you remember when your phone had like a half a megapixel camera? That’s sort of where we are today."
Event Coverage
[in-cosmetics Global] Social Responsibility, Empowerment and Measuring Up
Perhaps one of the most novel aspects of sustainability presented at in-cosmetics this year was how to measure it.
Safety/Stability
Toxicity Testing: Read Between the Lines
Active ingredients aren't thinkers, they're do-ers. But can they do too much? As explored during in-cosmetics 2017, in an industry permeated with astounding product claims, it becomes all the more crucial to test for potential toxic effects and really understand those results.
Tech/Equipment/Services
Coptis Launches Toxicology Database
To give users access to toxicity information for more than 2,000 substances, Coptis designed Coptis Tox. Learn more about it during in-cosmetics in April 2017.
Method/Process
Soft-focus for the Selfie-obsessed: Eye Tracking to Improve Color Formula Development
In cosmetics, soft focus refers to the blurring of light to immediately correct the appearance of wrinkles and skin imperfections. This parameter can be affected by the refractive index of the emollients used, as well as formula volatility and the dispersion of fillers. The use of eye tracking, described here, can help the formulator quickly select the best-performing formulas.
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